What air pump do you carry?

I just missed a Coleman inflat-all 90 near me for $5,,,lol. These were a 12v heavy duty mini air compressor. But it got me to thinking I might want one to carry on my Goldwing/sidecar rig. And I do collect Coleman stuff. But would an Coleman inflate-all be up to the task of airing up a 175/16 tire? They have different models ranging from 90psi up to 175psi. Or what about something cheap off amazon?
I'm not concerned with the weight of a heavy mini compressor. I actually need to add 100 pounds of ballast since I ride solo. Maybe Miles can fatten up Willie with some donut holes since he only weighs 12 pound's,,,lol. I was carrying a 60 pound bag of concrete and 50 pounds of lead behind the seat. I might as well swap that stuff for something useful. I now have a spare battery, starter, and alternator that I got with my leading link package.Β So that will help some.
Just wondering what you guys carry. I do have a Progressive mini hand pump for the air shocks on my Bushtec trailer. But I don't think I'd want to be trying to air up a 175/16 car tire with it,,,lol.
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I carry a Slime brand compressor kit.Β Haven't ever needed to use it so I can't speak to it's rank compared to others.Β I can say that I like the zipper package it came in.Β They do get hot, though.
Illegitemi non carborundum est!

I have a couple different ones, and I know one of them is the Slime air pump, and like that Shrek character, I like it because of the zippered pouch. The other one, my olde stand-by air compressor, is the Best Rest CycleΒ Pump, a Washington State company that made them as the "original" motorcycle tire air pump.Β
BUT....in case any of you yahoos want one of those Progressive Suspension hand pumps like pictured above, I have one, just sitting all by its' lonesome on my work bench, and I will GIVE it away at the.....Joyce Canfield's Sidecars in the Flint Hills Rally, to the first person that offers me a Donut Hole.
(you don't really need to HAVE a Donut Hole when you make the offer...just make the offer...and you win a free Progressive Suspension hand air pump)
Two Million Mile Rider
Exploring the World in Comfort
I have a Micro-Start air pump. It's small and works good.Β

Posted by: @2FLTCI have a Micro-Start air pump. It's small and works good.Β
I have the same one, and it has done a better than expected job of filling the tires on SYZ. 👍 Β It takes a bit of patience to go from zero to 40psi on the 150/70-17, but doesn't struggle. One thing to note is the nozzle is straight inline with the hose.Β So it requires good access to the Schrader valve.
Micro-Start air pump: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/antigravity-batteries-adv-micro-start-tire-inflator-%26-air-pump-p
I also carry a pouch with a CO2 inflator.Β Those little cartridges don't do much for volume, but work in a pinch.Β I carry a box of six additional cartridges.
CO2 Inflator kit: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-16-gram-co2-inflator-kit-p Β
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Hold my keyboard and watch this! π

I've been using an Airman inflator for over 15 years.Β Not available in the U.S. anymore but still affordable on eBay from European sellers.Β
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What I like about it --
(1) the Schrade connector is a compact screw-on so you don't have to muck around trying to get some clamp-on connector pushed down and clamped without leaking while you're kneeling in the mud on a sidehill in the rain.
(2) the power cord and the air hose pack up inside the unit where they're protected from damage from vibration or rubbing.
(3) no loose parts.Β Everything is self-contained in the hardshell.
(4) bulletproof.Β Has never overheated on me or failed me in any way.
(5) not slow (not fast) and not loud (compared to some others)
My only crit applies to all of these mini compressors -- the gauge is not particularly accurate, though it's consistent.Β What I did is I used my "good" tire gauge (from Longacres -- LINK) to figure out the amount of the error and then I marked it on the side of the Airman. In my case, 39 Airman PSI is equal to 36 Longacre PSI.

I like this one:
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Not very fast, but the gauge is nominally accurate on mine; you can set it to shut off at a specific pressure.
Too slow to seat a tubeless bead without the help of a ratchet strap around the circumference, but has been reliable after much abuse in my tool kit.Β Won't solve any ballast problems though, only 345 g.
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I bought this multi self rescue mafter.
Jump pack, phone charger, and air pump.Β
Little heavier, little bigger but I drive a sidecar. I got tool space.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BBG7Y96C/
BTW.Β On sale now for $125 and there's an additional $20 off coupon (may be a Prime member only deal though)
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Drew @andrew-baker, thanks for posting that above ^, as I just ordered 3 of the X-5 models, for $ 99.00 each, one for each of my sidecar rigs, and one for my Subaru Outback. The X-5 models will do everything I need them to do
Two Million Mile Rider
Exploring the World in Comfort

Posted by: @miles-ladueDrew thanks for posting that above ^The X-5 models will do everything I need them to do
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Happy to do it.Β This forum is all about sharing.
I only went with the X7 to have something that could jump start the motorhome if necessary.
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Went to take a pic of my I think slime pump in it's neat little zip up box.
And it's absence was conspicuous.Β
So below is the pump I use on the Fournals air shocks.Β
I run them at anything up to 400 psi. Depending on load and sag.Β
The hunt is on.
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Complete Tool Kit:
Emergency supplies in case the helicopter takes longer than 10 minutes to show up:
😉Β
Hold my keyboard and watch this! π

So about the VTOMAN X7/X5 that Drew posted. Are the battery clamps fairly large? On my 1500 Goldwing there is not much room to get to the battery to jump it. The terminals are kinda under the seat some what. I can barely get the small leads from a battery tender jr hooked up. I like the idea of a jump starter but won't do me any good if I can't hook it up.
I know this is a big ask. But does anyone have the VTOMAN and a battery tender lead they could do a size comparison? Thanks

Posted by: @calvin-watsonSo about the VTOMAN X7/X5 that Drew posted. Are the battery clamps fairly large? On my 1500 Goldwing there is not much room to get to the battery to jump it. The terminals are kinda under the seat some what. I can barely get the small leads from a battery tender jr hooked up. I like the idea of a jump starter but won't do me any good if I can't hook it up.
I know this is a big ask. But does anyone have the VTOMAN and a battery tender lead they could do a size comparison? Thanks
Calvin,Β Here is the very simple fix to all your problems in this life.....
Attach the Battery Tender leads to your battery, as in...attach each lead to the battery post, using the battery bolts, so that the Battery Tender lead is somewhat permanently attached to the battery, then run the SAE end of that battery Tender lead out to the side of the bike, typically up to a location around the passenger grab handles, or the LEFT side rear guard, that chrome rail loop just in front of the left saddlebag, and secure it with a tie-wrap, or two.
Doing this, means you can easily plug in a Battery Tender to this lead, that is now semi-permanently bolted to the battery, and can easily keep the battery topped up, or unplug it, and go for a drive.
Regarding the use of the VTOMAN X7/X5, that is even easier.
If the newly acquired VTOMAN X7, or X5 does not already come with a lead that has the SAE end on it, then simply cut the battery "clamps" off the wires supplied with that newly acquired VTOMAN unit, and install a SAE end to those wires, so that you can easily plug that VTOMAN unit into the leads on the bike, that are not attached to the battery.
Most electrical items come with the option of having a SAE connector on the end, to plug it into an existing lead. In MY case, since I have 7 of these Battery Tender Jr's on my ranch, I have several of these battery leads that have the SAE end on them, and if the VTOMAN units I receive do not have the SAE connector on the end of one of the leads, then I will do the modification that I laid out above, so that it will take me 6 seconds to connect the VTOMAN unit to my battery, once all is said and done.
IMPORTANT note: Before you modify any end of wires, to add the SAE connector...make 100% certain that you have labeled the Positive + and the Negative - ends of the leads that are already connected to your bike's battery. Check it again, and again, so that when you add the SAE connector to the end of the lead FROM the VTOMAN unit, it is wired correctly, to plug in to the SAE lead that is going to your bike's battery.
No crossing of wires here....okay ?
Every motorcycle, and all of my cars, have a Battery Tender lead bolted on to the battery terminals, and the lead wiring is fed to a location, and secured with tie-wraps, so that I can EASILY plug in a Battery Tender Jr. within seconds if I have a need to. Once you do this, there is NEVER a need to remove a seat, or a side panel.Β
And Calvin, I have several of these in my shop as extras, so...If you want, I can bring a couple of them to you at the Flint Hills Rally.
BTW, my local Honda/Suzuki/Polaris dealer does this on EVERY vehicle they sell, even prior to that vehicle being put on the showroom.Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Part of their PDI is that they install a Battery tender lead to the battery on every vehicle, so it is ready to go.
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Two Million Mile Rider
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