BMW R1100 GS Based Rig Project

Posted by: @miles-ladue

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Scott,  if you don't find a suitable spring in your own parts collection, (which you probably will), contact Chuck @54vintage , as he may have  THEE spring on hand.

The Ural cT chassis that is being used as the frame for my cargo sidecar rig,  will NOT be using the drum brake,  just the backing plate,  so if that spring is the same one, he may have that available. 

Chuck's email is: pica-pica1@hotmail.com

 

Many thanks Miles.  🍻 

Posted a question on Soviet Steeds to see if anyone knew of a U.S. based vendor for brake parts.  May have a lead.  Will keep paws crossed to hear back.  Meantime I did a "double spring" install from a kit of springs.  It will be a 15 minute job to change out when the correct part gets here. 

Also think I figured out why the brake parts look so new.  The lever which activates the shoes wasn't manufactured quite correctly, and was binding up. Most likely the original owner of the Dnepr this came from deactivated it.  Did a bit of work to get that functioning correctly.  Ordered a new tool which i'm hoping will fit cable so it can be properly lubricated.  That should be here tomorrow.  With a bit of Good fortune it should be all back together, and ready for action.  🙂 

Here is where we are as of today.  

Spring kit of questionable quality

Specific questionable springs used

Yung Scot, from the Highlands of Scotland, did you manually check to see that you can rotate the cam on the brake actuator, to overcome the tension of those two springs ?

And, make sure you properly lube up the actuator cam that pushes those brake shoes apart. Lube the backing plate where the edges of the brake shoes make contact with the backing plate.

Then, before installing the brake drum onto the axle, manually engage the Sidecar brake, to visually witness the brake shoes engaging, and relaxing back to the unbraked position.

Posted by: @miles-ladue

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Yung Scot, from the Highlands of Scotland, did you manually check to see that you can rotate the cam on the brake actuator, to overcome the tension of those two springs ?

And, make sure you properly lube up the actuator cam that pushes those brake shoes apart. Lube the backing plate where the edges of the brake shoes make contact with the backing plate.

Then, before installing the brake drum onto the axle, manually engage the Sidecar brake, to visually witness the brake shoes engaging, and relaxing back to the unbraked position.

Yes sir, and even used the correct backing plate grease.  Witnessed by the new Shop Foreman between snore fests on her raised princess platform right next to the work zone.  👍 

This is all pretty old hat for me.   In my early days at the automotive dealership, we were required to have our brake, lamp and smog license, along with our ASE master and specialty certifications.  The OEM I worked for required us to maintain the ASE certifications.  Up until retirement I had all the automotive and medium/heavy duty truck certifications.  Stayed pretty hands on at every opportunity, as it was the more fun, relaxing part of the job.

Not something I normally discuss as it sounds like bragging.  Certainly not meant that way.  Just part of a very fun and incredibly fortunate career.  😊 

It's not bragging, when it is the facts, and I believe everything you tell me, not just because I know you and like you, but because the Super Muttress/Shop Forewoman told me it is so.

Tool for lubricating the brake cable came in.  Tool works well, cable not so much.  Holes in the cable sheath alllowed lubricant to leak out before entire length was lubricated.  So along with the spring, a new cable will get ordered.  Current cable works well enough to use for completing the foot lever project though.  For now it is all back together and properly adjusted.  

Definitely like the looks of the tall sidewall of the Block K on the 18" rim over the shorter sidewall of the Battlax 19" knobby tire.   Totally subjective, but may sway the choice for the next sidecar tire.