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Raked forks vs sweet ezsteer

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(@dickbrandt)
Posts: 15
Eminent Member
Topic starter
 

I picked up a 2001 electraglide with a Hannigan Astro 2+2 as a winter project. The bike is finished and on the road. It came with raked forks and a Seet ezsteer in a box. As per John Sweet, if you want to use ezsteer, you need to unrake the forks. I really don't have any problems with the way the rig runs now. Has anybody had any experience with going from raked forks to Sweet ezsteer? Is it an upgrade? By way of perspective, I have had about 10 rigs.  Currently I have this Harley and a Honda CTX700 with a Vetter that I stripped down and rebuilt a couple of years ago. I have never had raked forks or ezsteer on anything. I have had a couple of BMWs with earl's forks. I have never been bothered by steering problems.  So, I don't know if this raked forks and ezsteer are just hype or what.  Any opinions are welcome.

 


 
Posted : April 21, 2026 2:35 pm
(@miles-ladue)
Posts: 1533
Famed Member
 

Richard @dickbrandt, I  may be wrong on this, because the older I get the more I realize how often I am wrong,  however...having said that...I believe that the "raked forks" on your H-D are basically the same as the Sweet EZsteer. The entire point and purpose of modifying the front forks of a motorcycle used as a sidecar tug, is to make steering easier. On most motorcycles with the typical front forks, i.e. your H-D,  the general way of reducing trail on the front end is to replace the triple trees with ones that canter the front axle forward roughly 2" to 3"...depending on the specific bike.

In the days of yore, or the olde days, that was called "raking the front forks". We sidecarists call that "reducing the trail".

I believe that the Sweet EZsteer is their model, their brand, of doing the exact same thing.

By moving the front axle forward 2 to 3 inches,  means reducing trail,  which makes it much easier to steer a sidecar rig. 

IMO, if you are happy with how your H-D sidecar rig handles and steers...leave it alone....and sell that SweetEZsteer to someone else that may need it.


Two Million Mile Rider
Exploring the World in Comfort

 
Posted : April 21, 2026 6:21 pm
sheath, MJ, SwampFox and 3 people reacted
(@2FLTC)
Posts: 312
Honorable Member
 

If you have no problems with the way, it steers leave it along. As far as the Sweet EZsteer goes I install one for someone and I did not impress me both the way it was made and the way it drove but that's JMO. It's a go idea but it can use a couple refinements. It's off my list for my own bike. The owner does likes it. I have someone else that is going to try one on his bike. I have to wait and see what he says. He new into sidecars. 


 
Posted : April 22, 2026 7:45 am
Bruce Carson, FlyingMonkeys, sheath and 1 people reacted
(@dickbrandt)
Posts: 15
Eminent Member
Topic starter
 

As I said in my first post, I am not new into sidecars. I started when I was in my 30's. It was a good way to take the wife and kids. I bought my first sidecar from a Farmer who had it in his field.  It was a Steib. He had it on a BMW R60?. I put it on a BMW R69S. Bike wouldn't pull more than 50. That is when I learned about rear end gearing on a BMW.  In those days you could buy a new sidecar gear set from BMW. So, that solved the problem. Bike easily held 70 on the highway with a load after the gear change. Probably the most interesting rig was a Honda 500 with a Velorex. I bought it in LA from a Danish couple who had bought it in Boston. They then rode it to Argentina and back up to LA.  They were selling it and were going to go to Russia and ride the trans siberian rail. They were pretty young.  But, they took a year off to do their adventure. Sad we don't think of doing that in America so much.  We loaded the two kids in it and put the wife on the back.  We did 2 weeks from CA to Colorado. When we came back, I sold it and got another BMW.  This time with a two seat watsonian installed by "Mr sidecar" Doug Bingham. Now I am 83.  I did the 3flags on the ctx700 for my 80th bday.  Then spent a winter refurbishing and installing the vetter you see on my posts. I am not sure why I got the Harley.  I got a good buy on it and thought it would be a cool winter project. It has been.  But, and I know there are some here that won't agree, it rides like a piece of farm equipment next to my ctx 700. Unfortunately, my wife is in love with the hannigan vs the vetter.  So, I guess I need to bond with the Harley.  Back to the subject at hand. I probably will package up the Sweet easy steer and give somebody a good price on it. I got very little help from Sweet in terms of installation instructions. I suspect it isn't too bad a job. They have a facebook group with a bunch of pictures. 


 
Posted : April 22, 2026 1:49 pm
(@dickbrandt)
Posts: 15
Eminent Member
Topic starter
 

As I said in my first post, I am not new into sidecars. I started when I was in my 30's. It was a good way to take the wife and kids. I bought my first sidecar from a Farmer who had it in his field.  It was a Steib. He had it on a BMW R60?. I put it on a BMW R69S. Bike wouldn't pull more than 50. That is when I learned about rear end gearing on a BMW.  In those days you could buy a new sidecar gear set from BMW. So, that solved the problem. Bike easily held 70 on the highway with a load after the gear change. Probably the most interesting rig was a Honda 500 with a Velorex. I bought it in LA from a Danish couple who had bought it in Boston. They then rode it to Argentina and back up to LA.  They were selling it and were going to go to Russia and ride the trans siberian rail. They were pretty young.  But, they took a year off to do their adventure. Sad we don't think of doing that in America so much.  We loaded the two kids in it and put the wife on the back.  We did 2 weeks from CA to Colorado. When we came back, I sold it and got another BMW.  This time with a two seat watsonian installed by "Mr sidecar" Doug Bingham. Now I am 83.  I did the 3flags on the ctx700 for my 80th bday.  Then spent a winter refurbishing and installing the vetter you see on my posts. I am not sure why I got the Harley.  I got a good buy on it and thought it would be a cool winter project. It has been.  But, and I know there are some here that won't agree, it rides like a piece of farm equipment next to my ctx 700. Unfortunately, my wife is in love with the hannigan vs the vetter.  So, I guess I need to bond with the Harley.  Back to the subject at hand. I probably will package up the Sweet easy steer and give somebody a good price on it. I got very little help from Sweet in terms of installation instructions. I suspect it isn't too bad a job. They have a facebook group with a bunch of pictures. 


 
Posted : April 22, 2026 1:49 pm
2FLTC, Bruce Carson, Thane Lewis and 1 people reacted
(@gespannrider)
Posts: 2
New Member
 

Here is an explanation of the difference between "raked" trees and John Sweet's eZsteer  from John's eZsteer Facebook page

 

Modified triple trees/ Rakes trees only move the front wheel forward 2 1/4". As you know the front end is still tight and hard to steer. It takes 4" of trail reduction to get the feel like you have power steering. When the bike was stock the trail number was 6.7". When the modified triple trees were installed the trail number was reduced down to 4.45". It helped but not much. If you installed my Ezee Steer to the 4.45" of trail that you now have the trail would be .45". You never want to go below 1.5" of final trail. So it would not work. What you could do is go back to a stock set of triple trees and sell the raked trees. Then with a stock set of trees, you could install my Ezee Steer bringing the final trail done to 2.7". Right where you want to be and into the future you would have what will feel like power steering in the handlebars. 

I'm often asked if the Ezee Steer is hard to install and if I would please post the installation instructions. So here they are along with some pictures to help.
The Ezee steer should go right on without much trouble provided that you get the bike at the correct height.
1. I start by removing the brake calipers. Also, remove the small cap screw that holds the brake lines up under the triple tree. On some, there is a small round chrome piece that the brake lines run into.
2. Install a jack under the bike's frame and lift the bike so the weight is off the wheel. Don't lift the wheel off the floor but just short of it.
3. Loosen the two 5/16 nuts under the left down tube. You're left as you look at it from the front. Use a 1/2" wrench.
4. Remove the axle nut and washers using a 3/4" wrench.
5. With a brass hammer or something that will not hurt the threads on the end of the axle, tap the axle out through the wheel.
6. Take note of the spacers and as you remove the axle place the spacers on their respective sides.
7. Once the axle is removed lift the bike up so that the wheel can be moved forward clearing the lower front lip of the fender and out of the way. Take note of how the wheel came out from the bike. I sometimes chalk the sides with the forward rotation arrow.
8. Remove the four 5/16 bolts that hold the fender in place. These are a pain in the ass if they have the safety tabs preventing the nuts from losing up. Once the bolts are removed move the fender to the front holes. That is, the fender will be moved from the rear mounting position to the front position using two of the bolts. Tighten the bolts down tight.
9. Take the small aluminum spacer that was on the left side bracket bolt and insert it into the area where the cap is with the two 5/16 nuts. Install the aluminum spacer in the place where the big end of the axle once rested. Tighten down the nuts.
10. Install the 3/4" bolts supplied with the kit from the inside out.
11. Slide the wheel back under the fender and lower the just a little. Take the brake calipers and lift them up routing them up and over the fender to the front of the down tube. There should be enough length with the small piece unsecured from the bottom of the triple tree. Play around with the brake calipers placing them onto the brake disks. If the bike is too high they may not reach. Lower the bike ever so gently till the calipers slide onto the disks. At this point, you will find that you are very close to the correct installation height for the ezee steer Once this is completed you can start to install the ezee steer brackets.
12A. Installing the Ezee steer brackets: Starting with the left bracket as you face the front of the bike. Take the axle and slide it into the left bracket using the small end first. Continue sliding till the axle's big end starts to slide into the big opening in the bracket. If the axle doesn't want to slide into the bracket the axle might have a small amount of dirt or something on it. These brackets are reamed to fit. I hand-check every one of them myself. You might have to sand the end of the axle to get it to slide in. Although I haven't had one guy needing to do any sanding
Take the spacer that you marked and saved and slide it onto the axle from the little end all the way up to where the axle has a shoulder on the big end. Take the bracket with the axle and the spacer and slide it into the wheel. Don't force it. As you work you might have to lower or raise the bike up to get everything lined up. As the bracket moves into place as soon as I have enough threads for the 3/4 bolt to fit I fit the nut onto the 3/4 bolt. Sometimes I shake the wheel. Other times the wheel is slightly tipped one way or another just a little preventing everything from fitting into place. Next, install the two 3/8" cap screws in place where the brake calipers once bolted to. Install the nuts and just turn them in till they stop because of the plastic locking devices. Now check the other side of the wheel. As the axle starts to extend itself out the other side I install the second spacer that I marked and saved. A little tap on the big end of the axle with a brass hammer and the axle starts to slide in place on the right side. I take the right side bracket and see how close it is to fitting. I play around with it to see if it would fit onto the 3/4 bolt and the small end of the axle. A little shaking or raising or lowering of the bike or checking the wheel to see if it's at 90 degrees and within a few seconds things start to fit into place. Install the two 3/8" capscrews on the right side where the brake calipers once bolted to. Once the bolts are started I slowly start to tighten everything up never forcing anything. If it starts to bind up I give it a little shake or I check the height of the bike to see if it needs correction. I should mention that it takes two 1 1/8" wrenches to tighten up the 3/4" bolts. If you only have one then an adjustable wrench might work. Once everything is tightened up the brake calipers are next. But first, you must see if the wheel is centered. The distance between the round spacer should be the same. On some, the wheel is off-center by about .120", just under 1/8". That is what the shims are for. The shims are close to .060". If the wheel is off-center remove the right side plate and add the large shims to the axle. Once you reinstall the right side the wheel should center itself. Once everything is lightened up the next thing is to install the brake caliper bolts that are supplied with the kit.
You will need to play around with them getting the bolts to fit into the calipers. Once the calipers are lined up they should fit. You may find that the brakes are dragging a little and other is some resistance but the wheel shouldn't be locked up. If it is go back and see what's binding it up. The brake pucks will center themselves once you are out and running the sidecar rig. The brackets are installed and at this point lower the jack. Do this only on the old system, not the new Platnum series. Loosen the 3/4 bolts that you just tightened. The Ezee steer is built with twelve-thousandths clearance because not every SHOWA, is the maker of the lower legs for Harley. Some are just a little wider. When you loosen the big bolts it sets the brackets to the lower legs with the weight of the bike. Now re-tighten the heck out of them.
The front wheel should turn and not be bound up. You may find that the brakes might drag for a short time as the brake pads re-seat themselves. Check the front brakes by squeezing the brake handle. The first stroke might not have any resistance. Pump the brakes and they should work fine.
If everything is working as it should work this Ezee steer is going to blow your mind.
If you have any questions please ask.

 
Posted : April 28, 2026 1:32 pm
FlyingMonkeys, Bruce Carson, sheath and 1 people reacted
(@dickbrandt)
Posts: 15
Eminent Member
Topic starter
 

Thanks for that post. That should be very helpful for anyone wanting to install EZ Steer.  


 
Posted : May 1, 2026 11:02 am