It looks good., I'm curious about what you will do to cover the wood. Will it be fiberglassed in?
I'm planing on covering the body with the same water resistant plywood I made the bottom out of. Then everything will be sealed. The outside will be fiber glassed over. I'll leave the wood grain showing. It might have a stripe panted to match the bike. I cant wait:o)
Wes
Today I took one of the old springs apart and sent them to "derustification" What a mess. I have the first one cleaned up though and ready for paint. I also have planned out how I'm going to mount the springs. No picts today:o(
W
The second set is ready for paint. On to the brackets:o)
Got a couple pieces cut out for the spring hangers. These will bolt to the springs. You can see the top leaf in the picture. I'll have a plastic bushing going through the middle. I'll weld these together at school tomorrow:o)
Only a couple more pieces and I'll be able to start on my frame. Yeah!!!!
been kind of lazy the last couple of days. I have some more pieces for the suspension nearly done. There is more to one of these than you think. Especially when you are building everything. I'll try and get some pictures up in a day or so:o)
Wes
I got a little done tonight. I was doing a little mill work in my shop. I started these pieces at work. I'll show that tomorrow. For today here is a pile of chips. I had to face about 3/16" off the end and drill and tap 2 holes in the end of it. This piece will hold the spring.
I have a few pieces made but they wont make any sense unless I show them all put together.
Later, Wes
I have some finish work to do here, but, my mill is tied up right now. Here is what I made to hold the springs.
Next time I have it part I'll take a picture of all the little pieces that I made. There is the upright piece, an axle, a UHMW bushing, and the boss that bolts to the spring X 2 :o)
Now I can start on the frame. Yeah!!!!
Missed a picture:o)
Wes, it looks like you got to do a little mig welding on that spring perch mount, looks good but my ever critical eye spotted what looks to be a bit of slag at the end of the weld, remember at the end of weld to pause and pull to fill the crater and get rid of the pleurisity, not a big deal but it makes things look neat and well done.
Boy,,,are you going to have something to be proud of and I admire you for what and how your doing it.
I am not sure what I am most jealous of? The fact you are building one or the fact you have a garage to do so! Looks great!
The spring perches were welded with the stick welder. The ends are open still. We are starting TIG welding tonight and I hope to learn enough to fix the ends with that. I wanted them to look nice and I didn't think I could do that with the stick that I had. I spied some 1/16" 6011 the other day and I might get some of that to play with:o)
A person doesn't realize how many parts there are on one of these. I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible. But there are still quite a few parts. But, I have more parts done than are left:o)
Stick weld you say,,you dd a really nice job, nicely filled and smooth with no undercut,,good job. Once you get TIG under control you can do just about any welding, I would suggest that you get a piece of weld wire and practice (assuming your right handed) with your left hand feeding the wire, it's a little tricky but with TIG you can back off with the foot pedal a little and feed the wire a little at a time but once you get feeding the wire down you won't be doing that, TIG is a wonderful welding procedure because the end result is beautiful looking strong weld, I worked with a fellow that actually welded tin foil but that was with a VERY expensive Miller.
Once again Wes,,,Thanks for shareing this project with us.
For stick welding I use 6013 with my buzz box. Less spatter and the weld lays down better than with 6011.
I've got 2-50# boxes of 6010 fast freeze 1/8" rod I don't need, for cheap if anyone's interested. (No oven needed)
Lonnie
Originally written by Hack'n on 4/1/2009 11:22 AM
For stick welding I use 6013 with my buzz box. Less spatter and the weld lays down better than with 6011.
I've got 2-50# boxes of 6011 I don't use for cheap if anyone's interested.Lonnie
Agree, the 6013 rods do a nice clean weld. Used to be called a 'drag rod' as they take little to no 'working' when usung them.
Many argue that 7018s or 7014s are better stength wise but they really are not required.
We seldom use stick welding any longer but it is still a great option.
