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harley wheel bearings

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(@timo482)
Posts: 627
Topic starter
 

I'm going to replace the belt and pulleys soon on the rear of my ultra [the gearing is poor and the belt has quite a few holes now so i don't feel like I'm showing away good parts] .. I've gone through a few rear wheel bearings in ten years, nothing major. but I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas or thoughts on heavier duty wheel bearings.

thanks

to

 
Posted : February 21, 2016 10:17 am
(@jandrews@papadocs.co)
Posts: 34
 

I never had problems with the bearings. I have put over 65000 miles on three Harley's with side cars and never had problems. The older style I replaced at 20,000 miles or so just because they were cheap. The newer ones were never replaced and seemed fine.

 
Posted : February 21, 2016 1:07 pm
(@trikebldr)
Posts: 106
 

VXB Bearings has the best selection of bearings, and also carries ceramics if you are so inclined to try them. Stainless steel is much better because they will not succumb to any moisture that tends to slowly rust the chrome-steel versions. The stainless alloy is also a harder Rockwell number, so they will wear slower. NEVER buy the cheapos! They are probably made in China and who knows what alloy they were made from. Pay a little more, get only stainless bearings and be done with them.

 
Posted : February 22, 2016 4:00 pm
(@bluehdmc)
Posts: 73
 

If you have a 99 or later Harley a better way to change the gearing may be to change the primary sprocket, (both engine and clutch). This doesn't create any speedometer correction problems.

 
Posted : February 23, 2016 11:44 am
(@fastjoe)
Posts: 154
 

Are you using genuine HD bearings?
They have a double seal in them to prevent water infiltration. Many of the aftermarket bearings do not and don't last.
Be certain they change the inner spacer with the bearings. It's cheap, less than $20.
Once a bearing fails with it, it is often ruined and will rapidly take out the next set. My 2004 Ultra came with a defective from the factory spacer in the front wheel and that one lost it's bearings in 35000 miles on a solo bike. The spacer is machined as cheaply as possible (that is why it's so cheap) occasionally marginal ones get out past QC.

 
Posted : February 23, 2016 5:52 pm
(@timo482)
Posts: 627
Topic starter
 

yes I've been using hd bearings , i had a left side [sprocket side] bearing go bad on the rear a couple of years ago. sometime this summer ill have the wheel off and I've been looking at bearing options. i read long ago of somebody who was installing a pair of bearings on each side of a rear wheel and making new spacers.. intriguing but I'm not convinced it would work properly [obvioiusly axle and spacer would would be required.

however what i really am trying to find is a timken set that is the od of the current large ball bearing. make a spacer, fit seals make new end spacers - it would "i think" be very durable and easy to inspect and clean. what i have not been able to find is the real specs of the hd bearing without taking the wheel apart first. i have to find what the exact od is - try and find a cone that has a 1" id and then make all the various bits needed.

i used to make spacers for my old timken hd's with 3/4 axles years ago - doing that with 1" axles is really pretty simple.. its the part catalog stuff thats a mystery.

thanks

to

 
Posted : February 24, 2016 4:32 pm
(@peter-pan)
Posts: 2030
 

When you change bearings and find that there is only one spacer make yourself the matching pair.
(have seen that on Chinese bikes)

On the distance tubes over time the contact faces use to wear. So I retouch them on the surface grinder when changing bearings.
Has helped.
Sven

 
Posted : February 25, 2016 4:45 am
(@Hog-Dr)
Posts: 10
 

Timo, have you considered Timken tapered roller bearings? Prior to 2002, they were original equipment on H-D wheels. They require regular service in the forms of repacking grease, and shims to set end play. Unlike ball bearings, they're designed to handle side-loading forces.

 
Posted : January 9, 2017 9:50 am
(@timo482)
Posts: 627
Topic starter
 

id LOVE TO the issue is "what size" and how.

on ball bearing wheels one bearing is pushed in to the stop - the other is just pushed in to the sleeve...

there is a size issue - a center issue - the center sleeve has to be just right since thats how the bearing preload gets set

if i can solve the size and seal issue - i can make spacers

the days of all harley wheels using the same bearings are over - inch, metric - several sizes - several spacer lengths - several lengths just in one year for various models.

to

 
Posted : January 9, 2017 9:54 am
(@IndSlim)
Posts: 96
 

What year is your Ultra, which wheels do you have?

 
Posted : January 10, 2017 7:18 am
(@Hog-Dr)
Posts: 10
 

It's been a long time since I worked on timken wheel bearings, but I think the end play spec was .002" - .004". Using the same wheel spacer should allow you to use a normal shim kit to get the right spec.

 
Posted : January 10, 2017 3:59 pm
(@timo482)
Posts: 627
Topic starter
 

2007 ultra

the first year of 96" engine - one year only motor mounts - one year only bearing spacer - the large diameter double row ball bearings with the inch axle

and the worst gearing every conceived of by mother harley. 32 66 final drive - zero power at 65 in sixth gear.

to

 
Posted : January 10, 2017 4:13 pm
(@IndSlim)
Posts: 96
 

OD is 52mm, ID is 3/4", your bike 1", or 25mm (hollow axle)

 
Posted : January 26, 2017 9:23 am