Just as I entered Tombstone Territorial Park a big Grizz ran across the road in front of me.. He/She was not happy with this strange moving thing.. Bounced and turned around several times as He/She ran across the tundra. I didn't stop for a picture :-0
A bit later I had to stop though,, The rattle noise from my front fender, suddenly stopped.. Hmmmm
Just couldn't take it any more
Roc Strap to the rescue.. Worked so well I was tempted to just leave it. 
Arriving at the Campground in Tombstone, with the fact that the road was open again. I found it full except for the few walk in tenting sites. Luckily they had a Starlink set up so you could register on-line and pay for the reservable sites. ( once you figure out their web site that is ) I got the one closest to the parking lot. 🙂 I was also able to check the weather and it showed a system moving in.. I got two nights. It rained over night but was nice for a bit in the morning-- I took in one of the interpretive walks they put on.. Nice young couple of guides with me as the only punter.
Permanent ice in the river
It rained heavy for the afternoon and on into the evening. A fellow bike, Florida I think, Ex military pilot, and I took shelter in the big cook house they have. We had a fire going in the stove so warm and dry. A nice afternoon of conversation and just relaxing. I did take advantage of the WiFi in the admin and interpretive centre building to touch base, post a bit to ADV Rider and mainly to assure my dear Kathy that I was actually on the way home. 🙂
My semi private site for a couple of days of just being lazy
It is always a tad bitter sweet when you stop at this sign after finishing the Dempster. You feel happy that it's over but a tad wistful that it is over.
Luckily I was able to fuel up at the Card Lock at the intersection with the Klondyke highway. The fire that had closed the road behind me on the way up had taken the power lines out but they had a portable generator suppling power to run the pumps. I had used all my fuel getting here from Eagle Plains and didn't really want to go back to Dawson City to get fuel.. I wanted to head South.
The Yukon is a land of rivers, how people got around before there were any roads. One of the big ones is the Stewart. When the prospectors were crawling all over this land looking for more gold. A couple of them found silver. The smart one of the bunch knew that they would need some way of getting the ore out, so he started a Town and a shipping dock in a convenient spot.. On my Alaska Trip I had gone into Mayo for a look but being on two wheels gave Keno ( the actual Silver mine ) a pass. Not this time.
Looking out from where the dock use to be. I think
Not much in Mayo. Seems to be a lot less since I was here last.
Looking down river, it's a long way to meet up with the Yukon
Seemed to be more going on in Keno even though it has only 12 permanent residents. Of course 300 silver miners just down the road help keep the bar open. 🙂
I happen on the road just as they were spreading the Calcium dust control.. They grade it, water it and then mix in the chemicals, then let traffic pack it.. It makes for a nasty slippery slurry of muck.. Luckily only ten Kilometres this time.
One of several nice territorial Camp ground here.. Had an actual swimming beach.. Brrrrr!
The rig was dirty before but this was over the top
It drys like concrete
Luckily at Pelly Crossing they had a coin operated spray wash.. 5 toonies and I was Abel to get it mostly cleaned up. :-0 The saving grace was the community has a free camp ground just across the road. A good spot to stop.
Another big river that is still used to service small native communities along it's length
The next day as I work my way South. I hit the usual Construction.. They are slowly rebuilding the Highway to Dawson City.. Make it better for all those monster Motorhomes.
I see on my Garmin a little side road I missed on the way up. Only a 150 K out of my way. This road takes you to some wonderful Territorial Campgrounds and fishing lakes, Tatchun Lake and Frenchman Creek among others.. All a tad of rough Gravel of course 🙂
In no particular order -- If you go North this is a wonderful little side trip and does get you back to Carmacks and Whitehorse. I have Cataloged it all for future camping trips to the Yukon
A funny incident from Carmacks, One of the locals was totally pissed at me. I had missed the entrance to the one fuel stop in town, thinking the next one was still open. On traversing back to the fuel station/grocery store apparently I drove the wrong way in the parking lot. Still not sure? Think he was just pissed at all the tourists that flood this area this time of year and wanted us all gone. He vented on me. All I could say was SORRY! In olden times I probably would've got shot :-0
After that incident free, 
a stop in Whitehorse to resupply the fridge. One of the Parasail guys saw the rig and tracked me down. Nice.
After that I headed to the Yukon Motorcycle Campground.. I had heard about it and wanted to check it out.. Bruce and his wife have carved out a nice little spot about 20 k South of Whitehorse. They have a restaurant, shop with a lift and tools to change tires, laundry, showers, tent cabins, and a few tent spots. A great place to clean up and take a break. Not that I needed the break but I certainly needed the shower and laundry. Plus it is a great place to visit with fellow Moto Travellers. Helped a gal replace her chain and sprockets, well watched more than helped. Yakked with a German traveller, got totally moved by a group from Texas. Apparently The main guys father had taken him on a Moto to Alaska when he was a young lad. So they were all there, Alaska and the Dempster, done. Father, Son, ( the main guy) and his sons.. An awesome adventure..
Edit-- forgot about the Ontario guy who tried to ride his Harley like a dual sport and dumped it on his ride that day.. Had to wait for help. Was licking his wounds at dinner. Laughing about it of course
The people you meet on these trip are what really make the memories
If you're wondering about this flurry of posts. We got our first real snowfall yesterday and I went grooming. Then I rode my E bike on what I groomed. Just a tad sore now and it's a good day to catch up with unfinished shit 🤣
Hard to imagine the Alaska trips. But images and stories give a lot for the imagination to work with.
Thanks for the ongoing share.
Hard to imagine the Alaska trips. But images and stories give a lot for the imagination to work with.
Thanks for the ongoing share.
Just think about crossing the Outback. Distance and remoteness is the same, except the North has lots more trees, water, and bugs. And the possible snow storm once in a while, even in summer. 😆
After a couple of restful days at the Yukon Motorcycle Campground, I still wasn't finished with the Yukon just yet. I headed back into Whitehorse and west on the Alaska Highway. On my first trip up here I was making tracks and sort of blew through some areas. Kluane National Park was one.. Plus I had fond memories of Haynes Junction.. I had camped there with a fellow from Ontario on that trip, me on my first and he was on his seventh. On the same bike! and old R100 RT ? Anyway, we had a great visit night and he showed me the Bakery in town the next morning.
I was happy it was still there as much of the rest of town has changed in ten years
The Cinnamon bun was great by the way 🙂
Arrival, it's just South of town towards Haynes Alaska
I managed to find a camp site.. Goofy registration process but made it work. Forgot it is a Federal Park and not easy like the Territorial ones. But I digress 🙂
Once set up I hiked down to the lake. Kathleen Lake. As nice as I remembered. I wandered a bit
It was a bit of a hike back to where the campground was but this avenue made it worth it.
I made a fire and relaxed, then took in a talk about the local Dahl Sheep from a spunky young ranger who was fun and she had every one involved and laughing
But as in all things North the weather changes fast, Back at camp the rain started.
Aw well, warm and dry in my monster tent
The next morning was a tad dreary. But checking the weather. I had 1 bar of cell and if I was patient the app would load. It said it would only be light rain I took my time and then finally headed out when it cleared a bit
First Stop was a hike up to this Glacial scree hill. Can't remember the geological names.. Kinda fun and there was a good view up top.
Looking out over some lake 🙂
Further down the road there was a view point. Grown in but I managed to stand on the sidecar to see over the brush.
There is mount Logan in there somewhere.. Canada's Tallest, or was, I think they have found one taller now in the Coast Range. Could be wrong, can't be bothered to google it now.
The Mission was to check out this territorial park. Million Dollar Falls
More like Million Dollar stair case
Yeah, seriously.
There was a water fall, I've seen more impressive.. I really like the stair case 🙂 very cool.
I also like this set up.. They were from Quebec and didn't have much English but we got the basics across. Someday I have to learn more French.
What was cool was he had a rack on the back which held the two Ebikes which were on a trailer.. He could unload them then hook them up to his KLR and pull them to where they wanted to explore or into town when set up with the motor home in camp. I saw them later boon docking. I have a pretty good set up but this was over the top.. RV, Motos, and Ebikes all together.. So cool.
With the rain looking like it would start again, I only rode down to the BC border. I had planned on riding to the Alaska border ( there is a little chunk of BC between Alaska and the Yukon here ) but elected to call it a day and head back to camp. All the massive Bear Poo's all over kept me from stopping long all along here.
The rain stayed away long enough to get back to camp and go for another hike around. Then it started for good and I crawled away for a good nap
The next morning I awoke to bright blue sky. But sadly it was time to head South. Horse to the barn sort of thing.
One last look, I just have to bring Dear Kathy up here and maybe hike some of the more vigorous trails. Maybe Not 🙂
Back through Haines Junction, with a stop at the new museum they have there.. Totally worth it if you go this way. A stop in Whitehorse for a last look around. Stopped at the Campground for lunch only to find out they weren't open yet.. I should have known that.. Got to say Hi to Bruce the owner is all.
Had made contact with a Buddy who lives in Whitehorse to find out they were Camping close to Atlin. Just on the Yukon side of the border.. He knows all the good spots around here. He and his new bride were out fishing when I got there but I figured out which was his camp and set up right beside them
We had a great night talking about things Yukon and old adventures
One of many great little fishing lake he knows of.. TARFUE Lake and the other close by is KARFUE Lake.. Named when building the Alaska highway I think 🙂
Gord had mentioned all the old trucks at the start of the South Canol Road.. I didn't notice them as I was so focused on the road before so I stopped to look.. Yep, there actually are truck there.
After that made tracks, Stop in Teslin, Lunch and fuel, Stop in Watson Lake for Fuel and to send some texts
Then on to Liard Hot Springs.. A must stop if travelling North on the Alaska Highway.. Campground was full of course but I got a spot in the Overflow. Lots of other there and the big bull Buffalo was happy rolling in the dry dust and ignored my little camp.. They have the main campground surrounded with an electric fence, To keep the buffalo out I presume, maybe the bears.. Anyways after a good soak in the hot spring and a couple of beer, I slept good and didn't worry about wild life.
This part of the Alaska highway is the nicest part.
Just south of Liard is Muncho Lake.
and The Stone Mountain area. There are several wonderful campgrounds. Not wanting to rush through this area as I have before, I stopped in to each and had a good look around.. Future plans forming
Then you get to the long boring stretches. Made a tad more interesting as there was long, very long areas that had just been burnt off.. Huge fires that had closed the highway earlier this year..
Resisting the urge to just keep going I stopped for the day at Buckinghorse river. Right at the edge of the burnt area. A fellow moto traveller camped beside me. He was on his way home to Alaska after being away travelling all over South of the Border.. One of many retired career military people I met of this trip. He was up and gone before I even had my first coffee.. Ingrained nature I imagine, something I never acquired 🙂
More long stretches of what BC is good for, Rocks, trees and water
The start of the Road.. Sort of.
I had played hop scotch with these two the last while.. From Italy, almost no English, I did learn they were doing the whole Pan America Highway.. Flew every thing in to Anchorage and went up to Prudhoe bay for the start.. A long way to go on small thumpers . There is quite the collection of travellers who stop at this spot.. One of those places I suppose.
One reason for going this way, I wanted to have a look at our latest hydro project.. Damming of the Peace river again with the Site C Dam.. Big fight over the flooded valley behind it but we need the power and it actually created a huge recreation lake that will probably be a huge tourist draw once fully established.
Not really as impressive as I was led to believe. I dithered a bunch on this part of the trip. Undecided. I had really struggled to not turn back North at Fort Nelson and retrace my NWT loop up to Fort Liard, Fort Simpson, and Hay River/ Yellow Knife. But the call for home was strong so stayed the course and kept heading South. Next time!
Once I get South of Dawson Creek and the start of the Alaska Highway I feel like I am close to home. I suppose it is because I have done this loop so many times and have options that either take a few days or more than a few days depending on how much gravel I feel like.. I still had a bit of a mission in mind so stuck to pavement-- Headed East and crossed over into Alberta and turned South at Grande Prairie. It gets bigger every time I go by.. Nothing but Car dealers and big box stores in parts that were Prairie before.. It seemed to take a lot longer to get out of town heading towards Grande Cache than I remember as well and it was only a few years since I was this way. It's called Growth I suppose.
The weather had turned on me and it had started to rain-- no problem but made this nice run a tad less nice. Cooled off too, I had to stop and put on another layer . I knew where the campground was in Grande Cache but it also had changed. Much bigger than I remembered. I guess it had actually been a while since the last time I actually stayed. The Gal running the place had shut the office down for the night as there were no more on-line reservations booked for the day.. Once made aware I was trying to figure out how to book a site with my phone she came out and took pity on me and opened up, then did the whole thing on her computer.. Very nice and friendly but Damn, I am not sure I like this new way of doing things. Every thing on-line. I like to just pull up, pick a spot and put some cash in the box. 🙂 Which is almost what I was about to do. Once I was official, she gave me the option to pick any empty site. I did check out the tenting area and a bunch of fellow moto guys were there but no level spot for my big tent so I picked a different site more to my liking.. Met a group who were there doing an Adventure Orienteering race.. Another new sport I knew nothing about.. Sounded pretty extreme. Several people had traveled a long way to participate. Texans for one couple.
Rained over night but the next morning was bright and blue
Feeling lazy I treated my self to a nice breakfast at the hotel
During breakfast I had a spirited conversation with some Old timers also there for breakfast. Politics was the topic of the day and we had some pretty different opinions of the guys running our country. Ha!
We kept it civil but I had placed the Rig so I could make a quick getaway if I needed too.
I had forgotten that there was a large Alberta Provincial park on the lower part of this highway. I stopped several times to check out various lakes and campgrounds.. One would have to book a camp site way ahead of time as we are pretty close to the city of Calgary here. Not ideal spots either as they were packed in fairly close. Probably better to find more out of the way remote areas if one wants solitude.
Once at Hinton, I turned west on highway 16 towards Jasper and the Icefield parkway. Normally I would have headed straight South here onto Alberta highway 40.. A wonderful gravel run down the East Side of the Rocky Mountains. Not this time.
I did stop a few times on the way to smell the flowers 🙂
OK let's wrap this trip up. A bit of a lack of pictures-- No stopping and a couple of rainy days
The reason for going this was was I really wanted to see the Damage at Jasper from the big forest fire from last year. Heading into the park from the East at first you don't see much but as you get close to the town site you see that most of the Valley has been burnt with some areas more effected than others.
The town site its self is bad but not. The famous main drag is still intact and hardly any different. But just to the west across the street and to the South, the town is gone. Pretty dramatic. Then as you head South out of town onto the parkway it is even more stark.. The entire Vally is burnt off. Which makes some sense as the last time I was here the bug killed trees were every where.. They got taken care of with this fire.. Must have been something to be part of the crew trying to save the town when this fire storm was blowing down on them..
The burnt valley carries on for quite a ways. once out of it though you are back into the amazing scenes of the parkway. High mountain, glaciers, wild rivers. On and on
I didn't bother to stop at the Columbia Icefield, been there. but I did pull into the campground just south of there.. To one for tenting.. Finding it almost empty and a great spot I decided to stop early. I had intended to go as far as Yoho to my favourite spot but having never stayed here it seemed like the right thing to do.
A fire to keep the few mosquitos away, beer in hand, a most relaxing evening reflecting on my trip
The view from my camp spot
No rush the next morning but there was a light rain starting just as I got the tent down- Oh well, just head for home. A nice stop in Field for lunch.. My family spent a few years here in the Sixties. Town has changed but not
Stop in Revelstoke but the kids weren't around so I took off.
Got home to hugs and kisses from Dear Kathy and lots of excited licks from Lucy. So happy to be home safe and sound but that little nagging sadness that the TRIP is OVER.
Nothing better to do than to un pack and start the cleaning.
Several days of this
And you still find bits you miss here and there later.. All the plastic will come off this winter and the left over nooks and crannies will be scrubbed but once you ride the Dempster and parts North you never will get it all off your bike.. A good reminder of a great trip even years later.
Now this has been finally written up and posted to both ADV and here, not much else to do than to plan the next trip NORTH.
What a great trip report! 🤩 Thank you for sharing. The writing and pictures are excellent. 🍻
Hold my keyboard and watch this! 🙃
