Pulls right ALL the time

I'm not the pro here, but have had some experience. If it were my rig, I would adjust lean out, and check the toe.

I had 40,000 miles on my Velorex.. tweaking and adjusting to find just the right spot for the majority of road conditions is something that seems inherent with some sidecars. There were many times that I thought Velorex was code for Vexing to the Extreme. LOL... Don't despair, you'll have many good times ahead.. honest.
gp

I went back and readjusted my rig a couple of weeks ago. I set it to "the perfect" amount of lean out and toe in and got the car level. I set it up originally, adjusted it slightly about a week later, and I'd ridden it for two or three months. It turns out I don't like "the perfect" amount of leanout and toe in. I think after my last adjustment the steering was perfectly neutral. But to me if I wasn't applying a little left hand pull it felt like I was going to flip over to the left. I was going to post and see if I was weird, but I went back and leaned the bike back in just a bit and if feels better then ever.

Anyway, my point is that once you get it right you'll know it. Definitely check the lean out and toe in, they will eliminate the right hand pull.

No expert either, but have adjusted a few rigs. You need adjustment also. A rig will never be neutral in all road conditions and loadings, but you shouldn't be getting a muscle ache trying to keep it going straight either.

This site under" toe in lean out adjustment" might help ya. http://www.cyclesidecar.com/Guides/universal.html

Thanks for all the advice. Made some adjustments last night to the lean. Turns out it really needed it. I'm going to road test it today and see if that makes a differnce.

Thanks again.

Since the Cozy sidecars use the Velorex Universal mounting set the instructions shown from Cyclesidecar.com are taken from the Velorex Handbook and like the Velorex handbook the placement position of the rear sliding mount and strut is flawed.
The positioning shown has a tendency to slip and rotate on the frame tube of the sidecar (which has caused many complaints from Velorex owners through the years).
This strut should be mounted in a straight line at 90 degrees to the bike but NOT at 90 degrees from the clamp.
The strut should be mounted as shown here. It can be above or below the sidecar frame for the most level placement.

Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars, LLC

Let us know how the rig handles now. Sometimes it takes several tweakings to get it just right for you and the type of roads that you usually ride. Remember, if you lean it out too much it will make the sidecar light on those right hand turns. Ballast and hanging off will be beneficial. 🙂
I've had some really great trips with my Velorex. I am sure you will too.
Have fun - ride safe
gp

Hi Lonnie:
One that 2nd jpg : - 2007..MSV... .0016.. What are those tubes running across the frame? ballast? Just curious..
Thanks, gail

They are 3" steel rod stock lengths used for ballast.

Lonnie

Can you see me smiling?

The adjustments to the lean (it was actually leaning IN, previously; it is now actually almost perfectly vertical)made all the difference. But here's the full story:

Made the adjustments last night; didn't finish until after dark, so I decided I'd test ride it this AM. Got geared up, went to the garage and started to jockey the rig into position for the pre-flight.

Heard a weird "squeaky rubber-on-concrete" noise that could only mean I had a low or flat tire. Sure enough, rear tire was perilously low. No worries: after a mere 35 minute hunt through the flotsam and jetsam of my garage, I found my little tire inflator and hooked it up to the socket in that back of my PT Cruiser and attacehd the hose to the valve stem.

I let it work it's little heart out until the tire pressure was near right or a little over, but when I disengaged the air hose, it pulled the valve stem out of the valve. Quickly placing my finger over the open valve I then put the valve stem cover back in place and made a brisk run to my local bike mechanic, who found the offending nail that had done the damage, noted that the tire was about shot, anyway; and proceeded to get me back on the road.

$295 dollars later, I'm here to report that the rig handles like...well, like a rig. But a rig that no longer pulls to the right so hard you need both hands on left grip.

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions. Looks like I can make the run to Paso Robles this month, after all.

Hi Hyster: Sorry I was out of pocket when you need some Sporster experience. I went thru a similar scenario and adjusted the lean out a couple of times before the rig wouldn't wear me out after a couple of hours in the saddle. I even picked up a nail in the rear tire on a recent Saturday ride and finally replaced the old stiff tires. Good to hear you're rolling again.

You may want to recheck the toe in after changing the lean out. Many rigs will have atoe in change when lean out is adjusted. This will nto be detected until you see excessive tire wear, usually on the rear tire.
For practical purposes lean out is the adjustment that allows straight tracking and toe in should be set as low as possible. Under 3/4" is a decent starting point measured right in front of the front tire and just behind the rear tire.
To much toe in may not even be noticed except by tire wear but no toe in will seem to make the rig wander a lot and toe out will create a pull to the right.
If mounts move at all or can flex or whatever any adjustments made can change at speed and all is lost. The bike and th esidecar shoudl be thought of as one solid unit once mated together.

Claude, You are definately right on the money with the check toe after changing lean out comment. I didn't know that and burnt up a sidecar tire in about 1500 miles because of that.

Here is an issue I have. In one thread we have posters telling folks that its ok for the bike and hack to flex, ( http://www.sidecar.com/megabbs/thread-view.asp?threadid=7050&posts=19)and in another thread we have posters telling folks . . . .
"If mounts move at all or can flex or whatever any adjustments made can change at speed and all is lost. The bike and the sidecar should be thought of as one solid unit once mated together".
I'm fully with Claude. Bike and hack should NOT flex and move. But then I do not believe for an instant that just because a company has been doing something a specificway for a long time, that it automaticaly makes it the RIGHT way to do something.
Very bothersome that there is such radical inconsistency being recomended to readers here as to what constitutes proper mounting.

Lunitic wrote:
>>Very bothersome that there is such radical inconsistency being recomended to readers here as to what constitutes proper mounting.<<

If it tracks well, is stable in turns, is strong and safe and does not eat tires for breakfast it can't be all bad 🙂