Hopefully you've read my general discussion introduction and already know my sidecar was poorly installed and way out of alignment. I have dismounted the chair and am in the process of adjusting the mounts to acquire the needed wheel lead when I discovered the front curved mount is tack welded into the frame despite the split tube compression fitting. From the paint (could it be powdercoat?) it appears to be a factory weld. From all appearances the universal mount kit offers this piece as a loose adjustable item. Without being able to rotate the curve the front frame attachment is going to be well aft of the original mounting point and that seems wrong to me. But it could be correct, I just don't know. Anybody?
The J-bar is a loose fit into the frame tube that is secured by the bolt in the split tube.
When I have run across this before, I use a die grinder to remove the tack weld.
If it is welded solid the split tube can be cut back just behind the weld to release the J-bar, then smooth the bar by grinding off the weld.
Lonnie
Thank you. I wasn't certain because the frame doesn't exactly match the photos in the installation manual. Those photos show a pair of pinch bolts, my 563 only has one pinch bolt. Time for Dr. Dremel and his dance with the steady hand.
Now would also be a great time to set the optimum track width, that's not a part of the Smith formula article. How do you calculate that? Based on wheelbase or just distance between the frames? I can read the instructions but an experienced voice is preferred.
I usually set up at about 12" frame to frame. This allows clearance for most saddlebags (unless they are drop open bags) and plenty of room for the pilot to get on and off.
The last one I did was a 1500 Kawasaki/563 set up for a wider track, 14" frame to frame, since this was a heavier bike.
Lonnie
I got close to 12", a little more but not much; I can see where some custom spacer templatesand a jig to hold the bike would be very handy. It took most of the afternoon to wiggle all of the connecting bits around just so. But, I think I have about 1/2" toe-in, 8 3/4" wheel lead and 1/8" camber out. Started raining so I'll be taking a ride in the morning to see how it is.
Thanks for the help.
We find that the stock Velorex parts seldom allow you to set wheel lead properly, We have also found that their "universal" type mounts leave a lot to be desired and that the lower rear attachment point on the frame of the sidecar tends to slip. You have not said what bike you are working with. Here is a link to an article that will give you an idea of how we would mount a Velorex sidecar assuming that the bike it is going on is small enough http://www.dmcsidecars.com/the-result-of-improper-sidecar-mounting-and-the-proper-fix/ I am also attaching basic installation instructions which will cover proper wheel lead. I am at the national BMW rally right now so can not be reached at the office via phone.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
www.dmcsidecars.com
It a 1974 BMW R90. I don't like the lower rear mount which is in the foot peg gusset plate and not really attached to the tubular frame; it seems
like that's a great flex point. But I'm over budget at this point so a sub frame is going to have to wait until i save up that extra grand. If my measurements are correct I missed the wheel lead by less than 3/4", since it was originally 6 1/2" forward of the 8.7" mark I should see a substantial improvement and that'll be enough to get me going.
I feel the other big bonus is going to be reducing the toe in from over 3" to 1/2". At least now I have something I can practice driving instead of taming a wild beast.
If you are just clamping to the BMW over time the Velorex type frame clamps will cause the BMW frame to fail, the tubing is much thinner then one would think. I have attached information on our sub frame. It is a lot less money to do it right then to latter repair the frame. There are other suppliers of sub frames and these do come up used.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
866-638-1793
