I made a similar plea for help with this problem previously and did get some help from Harold in Kansas. Thank you Harold. Unfortunately, even with Harold's suggestions I'm still having a problem and am hopeful that someone out there can give me some advise. I am trying to remove the rear wheel from the EML double sided rear swing arm so that I can pull the drive shaft and clean and lube the splines. At this point I I have removed the left side rear shock, removed the attaching bolts from both the rear brake caliper and the left side aluminum mounting plate that attaches to the swing arm. My first problem is that I haven't been able to remove the brake caliper from the wheel. There does not seem to be enough clearance for the inside top of the caliper to clear the wheel. (See photo "pinch point") I have removed the brake pads from the caliper hoping I could gain enough clearance to tilt the caliper get it clear of the wheel rim. Unfortunately that didn't work. I really didn't want to split the two halves of the caliper in order to remove it as that will make a mess with brake fluid leaking everywhere. I"m open to any and all suggestions.
Assuming I can get past that hurdle I'm thinking that after removing the right side shock I will be able to jack the bike up enough to gain access to the hex head bolts and remove the aluminum mounting plate. I am not sure however how to proceed beyond that. Again any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Lynn Keen
NE Florida
Joyce asked me if I could help. UNfortunately, I have not run into that particular problem before. Wildly guessing, can you loosen the disc screws and gain the clearance you need? BTW...sometimes the disc screws are installed with Loctite...you may need to use a pinpoint flame to loosen the Loctite. Again, this is just a guess.
Someone on the EML LIST may have run into that before. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/EML_SCL/
Also, perhaps on the SCT sidecar LIST. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/SCT/
Snowbum
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info
Thanks for the response Snowbum. I'll post my question on the EML Group Forum.
Lynn
It has been years since I had to do one however I think Snowbum is correct, Unbolt the brake rotor and it should all work for you.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
www.dmcsidecars.com
866-638-1793
i used to run a wheel on the back of my harley that was tight to the caliper - just unbolt the rotor
to
As usual, once again this group came to my rescue. Thanks to all who responded. I did finally figure out how to gain access to the drive shaft so as to clean and lube the splines.
Remove left side foot peg support
Remove muffler
Remove rear fender
Remove the nuts holding left side rear bearing support and brake disk assembly
Rotate bearing support/brake disk toward rear enough for bearing support to clear swing arm
Slide that assembly out far enough along the mounting studs for the brake caliper to clear wheel rim
Remove caliper and tie it up
Complete removal of bearing support/brake disk
This then allows full access to the recessed bolts that attach the wheel to the rear drive.
It all seems so obvious now! 🙂
When I did finally gain access to the drive shaft I found a lump of dried up grease lying in the bottom of the drive shaft housing. I'm guessing that this service had never before been performed on this 26 year old bike with 37K miles. Fortunately the splines were still in excellent shape. Everything is now cleaned, lubed and reassembled.
I know most of you don't need this info but I'm thinking that down the road someone else like me may come along searching for this info and thought this might help.
Thanks again
Lynn
This is interesting!!! Neither Al Olme or SnowBum being the worlds experts on all things BMW and EML could give me the answer of how to remove the back wheel 5 years ago or for you this time. I had to know why they didn't know and gave us the "It should be obvious" type of answer. I went on SnowBums web page and and found that he had bought Al's K1100LT rig. There is a picture of its rear wheel and it doesn't have the double sided EML suspention that our K100s are converted to.
In your discription ---- I didn't take the foot peg support off. I suspect you did it to get to the muffler clamps. I used ball end allen wrenches and then was carefull to return the clamps to where I could reach them again with the ball ends. I will be going all the way to the clutch splines this winter. When you get to that job let me know and I will send pictures of how you get the tranny passed the subframe. The Flamingo Man told me how to do it. Harold in Kansas
Great observation Harold and thanks again for your input on this issue. When you get around to pulling the trany and if you do manage to document the work, if you think about it, I'd appreciate if you could email me the documentation. That way I'll add it to the shop manual that I'm assembling and have it available if I decide to tackle that work.
Lynn Keen NE Florida
jlkeen1@gmail.com
