Replace Clutch or not...

At 79K I'd go ahead and change out the clutch. Lot's easier without the hack in the way.
The progressive springs should do the job. If not, PVC spacers can be added anytime later if desired.

Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars

I know nothing about Honda's but any bike that has 79K on it and is suspected of having the original anything I'd be replacing it, especially the clutch.

What kind of primary fluid do you guys run in Honda's anyway. I've been switching all my friends who ride Harley's over to Amsoil ATF for the past 2 years now. Any bike we work on gets ATF in the primary. Smoother more positive shifting for sure. Any of the high end, high performance clutch manufacturers are now recommending ATF in their setups.

o~o

don't think twice about it,..the clutch on the wing is between the rear wheel and the cylinders and will be hell to change later,..if I'm correct, the engine removal is req'd, or at least dropped,...better now then in June when it dies,..for the $100.00 for the plates??? do it. cheers, FYI Tex,..the honda's run the same oil through the 1 piece crankcase/transmission, tranny fluid will get ya home, but is not recommended,...too high in detergent and too thin to cool the engine well.

Back in the mid 70's I was running a custom Hack on our '75 and it became clear real quick that the clutch wouldn't take the extra stress and it started slipping without even trying to push it. New plates and HD springs cured it. That was with a one year old bike with less than 10K on it too. Of course the '75 had a higher final drive ratio than our later '78 which required a GEM Ring and Pinion. In fact both the '75 and '78 needed them for effective Tug use. If memory serves the '75's worked best with a 4.0-1 GEM and the '78-'79 with a 3.5-1 GEM Ring and Pinion. On occasion you can find a complete final drive at a M/C junk yard or eBay with a GEM set in it.

Jerry

Originally written by crawf on 2/18/2008 4:21 PM

.... FYI Tex,..the honda's run the same oil through the 1 piece crankcase/transmission, tranny fluid will get ya home, but is not recommended,...too high in detergent and too thin to cool the engine well.

Thanks Crawf. Like I said "I know nothing about Honda's".

o~o

any time Tex,...truth be told, I've little wrench time on the hogs,...now that a couple of my bro's are on them ,and they are more affordable up here, I'll no doubt have them in my shop sooner or later,..hehe cheers.

I put 150K on an GL1100 on the stock clutch. Before I sold it the clutch would slip if I ran synthetic oil but not if I ran regular oil. To replace the clutch the engine needs to be unbolted from its mounts and spun. Or put another way pretty much taken out of the bike.
I have ran with both stock springs as well as apacers on the front springs. Your springs are 29 years old, it would not hurt to replace them. Now would also be a good time to go to a leading link, You may be able to find one used.
Jay

Thanks all. After a mix up and call to the wrong Cycle shop, I've been working with and ordering parts from Cycle Pros in Rochester, MN.

I am going return parts to the other place and get Barnnet plates, friction plates, and springs, all heavy duty.

Even though I can't see my mailbox because of the snow I can smell spring!

By the way, I will be putting on EBC rotors and pads - cheaper than stock. (?) Anyone have any experience with this brand? They are full floating rotors, which I think are immensely better.

hey shoe,..I used to run Barnett and red-line clutches and EBC brake pads when I drag raced in the '80's ,..I always had good life and predictable wear from these parts...good luck