Ill have a look
I replaced the handle bar parking brake on both of our Ural Gear Ups with bullet brakes. I found the OE Ural parking brake required constant adjusting and was unreliable. It also took-up a great deal of space on the handle bars and interfered with the installation of Hippo Hands. The Bullet Brake is a hydraulic brake that uses the front brakes to immobilize the rig. Our rigs will absolutely not move an inch with the brake engaged. Manufacturers who install parking brakes cannot use hydraulics for the parking brake due to the possibility of leak down. I tested mine by leaving it engaged for 2 weeks while we were on a trip. When I subsequently tested the brake it still completely immobilized the bike. The brake is engaged by pulling the front brake and simultaneously pushing a button; to disengage you pull the front brake lever.
I use my diy electric reverse drive which engages the car wheel to act as a parking brake. I have a piezzo skwawker to warn me that the reverse is engaged when the ign is on to prevent me driving off with reverse engaged, so that is a nuisance but it works 100% By the way my reverse only cost about $120.00 and some fab. time Chuck
Neville
how about more info on your reverse.
Sure its very simple. I use a dump truck tarpmotor which produces 1 1/2 hp shaft via a worm drive. I made a 3" dia spur wheel to go on the output shaft. The whole contraption is on a slider with an overcenter cam actuator that is right upfront between the car and bike to the right of the footbrake. I have a led backup light and a skwawker using a stoplight switch so when its engaged the light is on and the sucker is loud and clear. I power the motor via a 30A heater with a relay that is hooked to the heater which is to the battery. The relay circuit is energised with a small push button switch fed from the ign circuit and I believe the thing only pulls about 10 or a few more amps when it is running. It moves at about 1 ft per sec which is slow but beats the hell out of pushing etc Chuck
