Does anyone have a working installation DVD for the MMD reverse gear?
I am just starting to fit the MMD reverse to my FLHR. Will writte a review on here when it is done.
I am then fitting a 1993 HD TLE sidecar to it. Trying to obtain all the parts to upgrade the bike before I start. Brake line from extra reservoir to rear brake reservoir is obsolete from HD! Also need a sender 90 degree piece, and a brake line 'T' piece. Does anyone have details of how to modify the pannier latch so it doesn't hit the sidecar when you open it?
Jobiwan - 1/22/2013 5:53 PM
I am then fitting a 1993 HD TLE sidecar to it. Trying to obtain all the parts to upgrade the bike before I start. Brake line from extra reservoir to rear brake reservoir is obsolete from HD! Also need a sender 90 degree piece, and a brake line 'T' piece. Does anyone have details of how to modify the pannier latch so it doesn't hit the sidecar when you open it?
Hi,
I had a TLE sidecar on a 1993 FLHS around 1995. I later had one on a 2004 FLHTCUI in 2006. On the 2004 rig, the sidecar was new in the crate. They come with a replacement hinge so that the saddlebag (pannier in UK) won't hit 'the tub. If I recall, the whole lid becomes removable. If you were to buy the hinge, it's about $100 US.
There is a plcture of it in the 2004 Touring Parts book with the parts number. I don't have the book handy but a dealer could order it for you. If I were you, however, I wouldn't bother. Prhaps a piece of sponge on the saddlebag with double sided tape would be a useful alternative.
The 90 degree elbow for the oil pressure sending unit and he brake tee are standard automotive parts. I don't recall the sizes. The hose between the remote master cylinder reservoir and the replacement brake master cylinder cover is a formed rubber part. You could use some flexible fuel line if need be. That brake kit is similar to the earler FXR machines and the hose has the same part number.
Google is your friend. LOL>
Good luck.
EDIT: I found the installation instructions for the TLE sidecar saddlebag hinge. It doesn't have the part number but basically, it replaces the entire stock hinge mecanism to prevent damage to the tub.
Latch unit:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J04563.pdf
Complete Installatoin Instructions with nice picture of latch on page 15.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J02169.pdf
Thanks for that, my HD shop managed to get me the brake hose from Vintage Parts so I should be good. I think I will just play around with the saddlebag and see what I can do. (I say pannier because I'm English, but live in Arizona) lol.
Jobiwan - 1/24/2013 6:42 PM
Thanks for that, my HD shop managed to get me the brake hose from Vintage Parts so I should be good. I think I will just play around with the saddlebag and see what I can do. (I say pannier because I'm English, but live in Arizona) lol.
Well, if you are English, you might recognize some of the terms that I fouind in my 1948 Matchless 500cc manual. I'll translate.
1. Dope = Alcohol racing fuel.
2. Spanner = Wrench.
3. Purchase = Leverage as when pulling on a spanner.
4. Gudgeon pin - Piston pin or wrist pin.
5. Parrafin = Kerosene, used for cleaning, etc.
6. Oily Waste = Rags.
7. Earth = Electrical ground. Oddly, the British bikes often used a positive ground (earth). For some reaosn that caused an excess of corrosion on both battery posts........maybe that was their point. LOL.
There were a few others that I can't remember, but those stuck with me.
I have a 1975 Norton Commando that is pos earth.
Jobiwan - 1/24/2013 8:32 PM
I have a 1975 Norton Commando that is pos earth.
Yes, the Brits kept that orientation for some time. I really don't know why....it may have something to do with the fact that they also drive on the wrong side of the road....because they can.
As I mentioned, I do recall that there was a great deal more corrosion on the batteries in the positive ground systems. It was sort of a moot point, however, since the Lucas electrics would often fail anyway so you got to clean the posts more frequently. My MGB also had positive ground and the batteries (two 6 volt batteries in series) were always getting terribly corroded, go figure)
I once destroyed the Lucas Racing magneto on my 1957 BSA GoldStar in a car wash. LOL.
You forgot the most important word to translate:
Lucas. = darkness
Markh00 - 1/25/2013 3:09 AM
You forgot the most important word to translate:
Lucas. = darkness
Yes, Lucas lighting was a bright as the sun and when the engine dropped to an idle, the sun set.
I recall the lighting on the early Matchless, AJS, BSA, Royal Enfield, and Norton bikes. I was incredible how Lucas could engineer a system that put out exactly one milliamp more than the electrical drain. It was OK, though because what they lacked in reliability, they made up for in high prices and difficulty in replacement.
Their motto should have been "We make Lucas stuff so bad because we can".
Your comments brought a smile as they remind me of my first brand new ride. It was a 1972 BSA MX50 (if I remember the name correctly), 500 cc single cylinder, tickler carb, and a manual compression release. If you didn't work the compression release just right the kick starter could just about heave you over the handle bars. On my first ride the exhaust (pipe pointing squarely at the right side plastic turn signal) melted the turn signal housing. Something should have told me then I was in trouble. I once rode it a 100 miles. I felt like I had achieved a global navigation.
Markh00 - 1/25/2013 4:34 PM
Your comments brought a smile as they remind me of my first brand new ride. It was a 1972 BSA MX50 (if I remember the name correctly), 500 cc single cylinder, tickler carb, and a manual compression release. If you didn't work the compression release just right the kick starter could just about heave you over the handle bars. On my first ride the exhaust (pipe pointing squarely at the right side plastic turn signal) melted the turn signal housing. Something should have told me then I was in trouble. I once rode it a 100 miles. I felt like I had achieved a global navigation.
I was racing in the earlier era of "pre-unit" British bikes. In Southern California in the late 1950's it was a hotbed of motorcycle racing. This was before Moto Cross and all of the regular races were scrambles with heats, semi-finals and finals. All of the bikes were running straight alcohol and castor oil and it wasn't uncommon to get 50 hp out of a 500cc BSA, Matchless, AJS or Triumph. With alcohol most folks were running 12:1 compression and large carburetors.
Getting to my point here, you can well imagine that such motors could really kick back if the rider had poor technique. It you forgot and failed to retard the ignition and watch where the handlebar was in relation to your right knee, it was easy to get hurt.
Many a knee cap was split starting those things. The bike would kick back and jam your knee into the underside of the handlebar. If you were lucky, your knee would only turn black and blue. Otherwise, you would get a trip to the hospital.
Those were the days and we knew it. 🙂
Want to come and try to kick start my 850cc lol.
you guys remind me of my 1969 Norton Commando which had a 900cc kit in it and not easy to start -- I drove to Mexico and close to my grandmother's home, the bike was very shakey - the next day, I found the backbone was broken. After repairs, I continued on with the bike pulling a little bit. 600 miles later, I took it to shop to get it fixed right. The owner's weight - 130 max -- with the bike on its side stand, while standing on the right side, he pushed the kick starter with his left leg and the bike started. I could never do that....
I heard once that the reason the British drank warm beer was because they had Lucas refridgerators.
