"We seldom use stick welding any longer but it is still a great option."
Yeah, you rich guys over there on the right coast with your fancy Tungsten arc setups................LOL
Being a cheap bastard I bought my old 240 A/C Forney in 1961 from a travelling Forney salesman who stopped by the shop and still use it for the heavy welds. Before that it was all Oxy/acetylene welding or brazing for everything from body metal gauge on up (or borrow my partners Forney).
Lonnie
Lonnie,
I'll take you up on that 6011 rod. It works great for the root pass. It'll burn through oil and old paint, no problem. Wes, for flat welds, try 7014. It looks beautiful after you knock the flux off. No spatter to speak of.
Mark,
Make me an offer I can't refuse and pick it up your next time through.
Lonnie
Originally written by Hack'n on 4/1/2009 12:23 PM
"We seldom use stick welding any longer but it is still a great option."
Yeah, you rich guys over there on the right coast with your fancy Tungsten arc setups................LOL
Being a cheap bastard I bought my old 240 A/C Forney in 1961 from a travelling Forney salesman who stopped by the shop and still use it for the heavy welds. Before that it was all Oxy/acetylene welding or brazing for everything from body metal gauge on up (or borrow my partners Forney).Lonnie
LOL...Yeah rich and fancy. I think you know me better that that.
We do most welding with a MIG. As far as TIG goes the 'in house' setup is an old school scratch start conversion run off a buzz box. We use a high frequency box if we have a small amount of aluminum to do.
Yep, still use arc for some things though.
We have access to better equiptment when needed. Can't do our aluminum sidecar bodies in house with what we have now. Need a water cooled TIG gun for that.
Wes , ask your welding teacher about the buzz box heli arc conversions. These were used in probably 9 out of 10 race car shops years back. The high frequency boxes used to be avaiable until th emanufacturers found out they coudl make more money selling genuine TIG machines to small shops.
Mark,
By the way, the 6011 is 1/8" rod. Goes for $125.00 a box but having a rich wife I don't need near that much.
Lonnie
I've been trying to find a box but I haven't seen any in this area for sale. I think http://www.casano.com/projects/hfstart/index.html This will be my best bet. My boss is an electronics wizz and offered to help:o)
Wes
Originally written by Hack'n on 4/1/2009 6:59 PM
Mark,
By the way, the 6011 is 1/8" rod. Goes for $125.00 a box but having a rich wife I don't need near that much.Lonnie
So, rich out west huh? 🙂
Well I managed to get the frame tubes bird mouthed after work today:o) I'll be able to start welding the frame up tomorrow. I really want to have the wheel on it this weekend. It shouldn't be that hard to do. I'm pretty excited about it. I think I have some mounts, to mount the springs to the frame, figured out. Hopefully I can get those made also. We'll see?
W
6011 v 6013. One is fast freeze and one is fast fill if I recall. I just don't remember which is which and I'm away from home right now. At any rate, 6011 used to be refered to as "farmer's rod" because it worked so well on rusty material and was the most common rod used by farmers for in field repairs...
Wow, my hat's off to Wngnut and everyone posting help, advice and suggestions for his project. It's refreshing to see constructive advice and criticism offered and utilized without conflict, as you see so many other places on the Web.
I'm watching your build now Wngnut with great admiration and interest, my desire to build my own sidecar resulted in my finding this build. The refreshing part of watching your build is I have an 84 GL1200 that I was going to apply it to. Now if that isn't luck of the Irish I don't know what is. I know I don't have the technical skills of yourself, but I am inspired to try what I can and farm out what I need to. Great posts and pictures, I'm sure many fans are checking regularly.
Finally got some work done today. It seems like every time I turn around something comes up. Anyway, Here are some more pictures:o)
Here I have the frame tacked together. I tacked one side, checked it for square and out of rack, then tacked the other side.
Here is a quick closeup:o)
Playing around with the height. I think paint cans are perfect!
Here is the piece of tube that I'm going to cut up to weld to the frame and bolt the axle to. I have to be away from the frame about 2" to clear the springs.
I'm glad everyone is having fun watching me:o) I really appreciate all the help and support I'm getting.
Later, WesP
I wonder if that frame tubing is going to be strong enough. I don't mean to be critical but there's a lot of stress and strain on the axle to frame joint.......
It seems like every time I turn around something comes up.
==============================================================
Wes,,,,,I know what you mean, but I cured it,,,,I quit turning around 🙂
Originally written by gnm109 on 4/6/2009 12:43 PM
I wonder if that frame tubing is going to be strong enough. I don't mean to be critical but there's a lot of stress and strain on the axle to frame joint.......
I still have a couple tubes and a few gussets to add to the mix. I'm drawing the gussets up today. I'm going to have them cut out on the plasma cutter at work:o)
Thanks, wes
Originally written by Wngnut on 4/7/2009 11:47 AM
Originally written by gnm109 on 4/6/2009 12:43 PM
I wonder if that frame tubing is going to be strong enough. I don't mean to be critical but there's a lot of stress and strain on the axle to frame joint.......
I still have a couple tubes and a few gussets to add to the mix. I'm drawing the gussets up today. I'm going to have them cut out on the plasma cutter at work:o)
Thanks, wes
That sounds good.
