The CB750 only has about a 150W stator and with all the stock lights etc. is using about 115W. I would like to have some more power available for a heated vest for the wife, a driving light etc.
Does anyone know of a place that makes high output stators for these old street bikes? I did a google search and didn't turn up a lot except for stators for dirt bikes and atv's.
What other things have people done to get more electrical output? My brother was talking about running an alternator off of the sidecar wheel, but that sounded like a goofy idea to me and I'm not really sure it would fit anywhere.
Perhaps not that Mickey Mouse. I have seen 2-3 rigs in Germany with a car alternator.
One was a Citroin Dyna engine (hack what is the spelling for the French car brand? (the Dyna is not the Duck( 2CV, 800ccm/28hp) but the Ugly Duck (1000?ccm/45Hp))
Boxer that substituted a BMW engine (I do not know how he changed the engine rotation.)
Another rig (I guess it was a CB750 Four) running from a second sprocket mounted on top of the gearbox sprocket. The Alternator was located in the space that is above the back swing pivot and behind the carbs.
My CB650 had its first and only engine fault (the alternator windings) at 117.000km after a cold and very wet >900km night trip in April 1988. With grip heating and fog light on the Autobahn close to the French border.
These old Hondas always were jealous on Guzzi light machines....
I couldn't even imagine an electrically heated suit running from one. And frankly the Police bikes (like in Greece) of those years hadn't much better alternators neither.
Regards
Sven Peter
Perhaps not that Mickey Mouse. I have seen 2-3 rigs in Germany with a car alternator.
One was a Citroin Dyna (hack what is the spelling for the french car (the Dyna is not the Duck(800ccm/28hp) but the Ugly Duck (1000m/43Hp))
Boxer that substituted a BMW engine (I do not know how he changed the engine direction.)
Another rig (I guess it was a CB750 Four) running from a second sprocket mounted on top of the gearbox sprocket. The Alternator was located in the space that is above the swing pivot and behind the carbs.
Regards
Sven Peter
one of the members here ran an alternator off the sidecar wheel. He had a very clean install wired directly to a car battery in the chair as I recall. There are pictures of it on the SCT (yahoo group) site, although they were probably moved to one of the SCT pic sites. I have some buried in a box of photo cds somewhere. I'll try to find them.
Actually, I think it was Stacy's purple rig that was advetised here off and on for awhile.
here's a pic http://www.sidecar.com/megabbs/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=391¤tpos=1
For a bike that would not be a good candidate for a car alternator or a replacement stator this would be a good idea. Might take some electrical engineering as well as some fabrication skills but still, worth considering if you plan on some high draw accessories.
well I'll be damned!,..that is the smartest thing I've heard all day,..thanks for the pics of stacy's kawi,..very good reference,..I myself run a deep cycle truck battery , fed from the bike's batt/alternator combo for the extra umph req'd to run the kid's DVD and radio,,...nice idea with the chevy alt tho....may just try that....crawf.
Originally written by crawf on 10/9/2008 5:10 PM
well I'll be damned!,..that is the smartest thing I've heard all day,..thanks for the pics of stacy's kawi,..very good reference,..I myself run a deep cycle truck battery , fed from the bike's batt/alternator combo for the extra umph req'd to run the kid's DVD and radio,,...nice idea with the chevy alt tho....may just try that....crawf.
Nice thing about using a Chevy alternator is you can get a self-energizing voltage regulator model, aka one wire model, and all you need is a single wire from the alternator to the battery.
The positioning puts it in harms way ground clearance wise though.
Lonnie
purhaps this winter, a more creative location could be found???? lonnie is correct, this needs more protection in the harsher climates,especially in off season riding,...HMMMMM!.. to the lab Dr. Mal Practice...we have work to do!!!!
I read this thread yesterday and the question that is floating in my mind is why does this require a drive belt on the axle? Why not position the alternator 90 degrees to the wheel and use a friction drive to the sidewall of the tire, it would take some figuring to get the ratios correct but would give more options for alternator locations particularly if the friction drive is a jack shaft the alternator can be positioned in a box elsewhere. The older snapper riding lawn mowers used a metal drive disk and rubber friction drive for their variable speed drives and those things lasted for years the wheel changed position on the disk for slower or faster speed.
Just a thought to add to the process.
kinda like the old bicycle headlight generators, eh?
Kinda like that on a larger scale, an alternator wants to run about 5000 rpms for optimum output so if you calculate the surface speeds where it contacts the tire at say 60 miles per hour and figure out a circumference or ratio that gets you that rpm at the alternator. Seems like it might offer a bit more freedom to move the alternator away from under the car.
Fred
we use SEW EURODRIVES, Variable speed drives at work, and the friction clutch is just that,..a curved steel disc that increases preasure closer to the center point,increasing speed, against a rubber/plastic ring , I could see that philosophy working on the upper inside of a rubber tire,..or a cam follower inside the rim edge,....ouch! my brain is hurting again,..hehe crawf.
