
Β Maybe a couple of those Ural snowmen in the back would level it out? They would soften the monkey's ride.Β


Looks good Ace! (and folks will certainly be able to see it on the road)
A
Nice Ace
Dave

Ace, that really is sweet looking rig. The paint match looks perfect in the photos. Am looking forward to seeing it in person.
How many miles on the Wing? Β Are you making any special accommodations in the sidecar for your lovely partner?
Hope you guys are going to make the rally in Hotchkiss in July.
Jan

Β Sure looks good. Enjoy it.
Sweet rig👍‼️

so I have got around to fabricating the rear frame bracket for my top. I have a good start on it. As it turns out the frame for the vinyl top is now made of unobtainiumΒ so finding one has proven to be impossible. the car came with the vinyl top but no frame. I did luck up and find the front 3 pieces at FL. Sidecars and now those are no longer available anywhere. I have a friend with an F3 and he took pictures and got measurements of the rear section for me. I used that andΒ I began the task of bending the tube to make the part. I had an old metal frame chair that I cut up to get the tube from, it's really too big but was perfect for that first attempt. I have the bow part with the pins done and put in place temp. so I can get the measurementsΒ for the lower part, one I get that sorted out and welded onto the bracket I have to build the 2 plates that mount on the cars frame that the top bow fits into. this has been a rather daunting task with a ton of test fitting being needed to get the bends right and get the pins in the right spot so the frame fits together smoothlyΒ
I'll get a couple pictures added laterΒ
once I get this first one done and am happy with the fitment I will get the proper size tubing and use this one as a guide to build a new one that will be the final part ,,,, YeahΒ

Progress is good. Looking forward to seeing photos as you continue to build out.

well finally got around to working on the top frame again. I came up with a different idea than the factory design to keep the tension for the top I am trying out to see how it does.Β so far it seems to work well and is easy to set up. time will tell if I will keep it or go more with the factory design
also decided to adjust the toe IN a little more, seems to be pulling right just a touch more than I likeΒ

Man does time flyΒ
anyway my idea for the rear frame was OK but not ideal so I scrapped it and started on a new rear frame. the first was made out of the wrong size tubing and was just going to be a guide anyway. so I ran across some scrap that turned out to be the perfect size and got started. first I had to cut the legs off then weld 2 of them together, next up was to get them bent into the right shape, once I got that where I wanted it I made and welded the post on. took a bit of measuring test fitting and then finally got them where they needed to be a welded in place. this is where I am so far. next step is to build the lower part that hooks onto the bracket to hold it in place. I have to fabricate that too.Β

So I noticed a weird banging noise the other day, got home and found the bolt to the lift cylinder had come out, I replaced it and all seemed good again. Well on my way to work this morning I notice this faint clanking noise again, but this time much quieter, I get to work and standing behind the rig it just didn't look right, the bike appeared to be leaning toward the car and the tire on the car appeared to be leaning, So get out a square to see if was just my imagination and when I slid under the back to find a good spot to check it I found this,Β So I will have to nurse it home and remove that part of the sub-frame so I can repair it. I'm a good welder and can fabricate but any thoughts on the best way to repair this are welcome. It appears to have broke right at the end of the inserted threads for the yoke. Also any thoughts as to why it would have broke there.Β

Probably stating the obvious but if you insert a smaller tube and sleeve it when you do the repair that would add strength.

Ace, that is very similar to the break my sidecar frame had in Alaska, after hitting a few potholes a little too fast. The welder in Fairbanks leveled that strut, then cut a 6" piece of pipe lengthwise. He laid one half on top covering the break, and welded it in place. Β The other half piece he welded to the bottom. His $125 repair was strong enough to let me ride the 4000 miles back home to Texas. Β
Back home, the professional welder said the Alaska patch was strong and not to mess with it. Β We removed the tub and found two more cracks in the sidecar frame.
Lesson learned: If you have one frame crack, carefully check for others
CCjon

You can bet I'll be inspecting it very carefully once I get it home and start taking it apart to repair it.Β
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