Is it safe or advisable?

Steve, assuming (which I do NOT like assuming) that you will have the rig stationary...not going down the road at 60 mph....and that you plan to reattach that same mount back to the bike....there is no reason you cannot detach that front upper mount from the bike, then remove said right side fairing piece.

Your question is only unusual in the context that it is unusual for a Honda Goldwing sidecar owner to necessitate removing any parts, anywhere, on their motorcycle to facilitate service or repair, as this is usually done on BMW bikes, as they are constantly in need of service/repair/adjustment/replacement.

(please, all you BMW dudes and dudettes, you can now throw your un-eaten Donut Holes at me...a man has to eat....eh?) 😉

But seriously Steve, just carefully MARK that mounting rod....with either tape, or white-out, or something similar, so that when it is detached from the bike, you can reattach it to the exact same position...thread count....as it was previously.

Thanks Miles

That's about what i thought but playing safe by asking. Just thinking driving light bulbs rather than indicator bulbs and maybe some not so easy to fit show chrome =)

Windscreen arrives today from clearview =)

Steve

Steve--When I read Post #1 and saw you asking about the "angled front upper black bar" I asked myself what the hell is he talking about?  So I opened your pics in a new tab and zoomed in to see more clearly.  Ahh!  I then remembered that you are fairly new to this game.

That "bar" is actually the front upper strut.  Most rigs have two upper struts and two lower struts.  Occasionally you'll see a rig with 3 struts or 5 struts, but 4 is the norm.  In any event, the word is "strut".

Also, to add to what FM said, I don't know if you live someplace dry or rainy, but folks up here in the Pacific NorthWET mount their upper struts with the solid tube end attached to the bike and the threaded rod end attached to the car.  In other words, flip that strut upside down from the way you have it now.  The reason?  Rain.  With gravity's help, rain seeps down the threads into the strut and rusts the threads inside the strut.

Of course, if the rod ends and bolt dimensions are different at the top and the bottom then you're stuck with leaving your strut the way it is.  For those folks who might stumble on this thread sometime in the future, if you have a strut that MUST be mounted with the threaded rod upwards, unscrew the jam nut, degrease the threads, apply some blue threadlock, then tighten the jam nut.  The blue threadlock will act as a waterproof barrier to keep the water from seeping down into the strut innards.

Fellow members,

The wealth of knowledge from the long time Sidecarists on this site and other sites is extremely valuable and always amazes me.

I have been a motorcyclist for nearly 6 decades. Motorcyclist are a different bread. Sidecarists are a rare bread. All in positive ways.

Most cyclist are always there willing to assist someone with their expertise, weather it be on the road, online. Helping the Idiots, seasoned riders a bit off track, Noobs, etc. My observations of the sidecar community is nothing but TOP TEAR!

Drone, This reply is an excellent example of what I'm talking about.

Drone, (I feel comfortable calling you out) and many many other long timers, have assisted me (and countless other folks) navigating the three wheeled world of sidecars oh so many times. I believe I can speak for many new folks to the sidecar world.   THANK YOU!!!

I realize this is nothing new, just things that bikers do, including myself.  However "Hats off" to the many seasoned sidecar folks for helping out the less charted waters for the newer sidecar people.  THANKS AGAIN.

Dave Brakebill

Thanks peeps great advice, flipping the strut makes sense. Everything looks pretty shiny and new at the top of the strut but blue thread lock will be investigated. Fortunately my outfit has a garage all to itself, it sure is a blessing for my mobility if i have to tinker. Even spare old carpet to kneel on =)

Steve

On a different note the sidecar hood is out of line. There is what looks like a couple of bolts and a bunch of washers that attach the hinge to the body. Is it a matter of changing the position of the washers and maybe new bolts to centralize the hood? I have also fitted new struts/hood supports

Picture coming up just for miles in case he is at a loss with my ENGLISH english words =) or lack of sidecar lingo.

yes, you can use the washers to change the alignment of your top. I had to do that on my Motorvation FII when I got it. not a big deal just might have to play with it a couple times to get it right. Hint only change one side at a time then snug it down to see where it sits. The rig is looking good 

Great thanks for the reply =) Leave the struts on while adjusting?

Steve

Yes, just figure what direction you need the top to go, loosen both or in my case all 4 bolts that create the hinge, then just change the washers on one side first and leave it loose then do the other side. Now just snug them up enough to see if it aligns, if it does tighten them up if not repeat

Anytime you are working on a hatch like that and for sure if you disconnect the Struts get some help or secure the hatch from moving. a sudden slam shut or other movement can hurt you or damage it.