What do you use?

I did and didn't like it. Its like Winston Churchill used to say:
"I don't trust any statistics as long as I didn't falsificated it myself!"
Way too much twist and error possibilities.
First thing a REALLY flat surface!!!!
98% of all concrete floors aren't true.
Second thing something straight.
Many square tubes are twisted ore bowed, so double check well
Get up from the floor and compensate for diferences in tire thicknesess.
An angle protector is nice but not necesarry and often makes you believe your own measurement mistakes.
So: Remember Pytagoras. ( a*a+b*b=c*c) together with a good carpeters square and a vernier or measuring tape you will get good results or perhaps even better results then with a cheap (or not so cheap) protractor from the hardware store.
1 degree is often smaller then resolution or fabrication error.
A good way to work is to preload the suspencion with a concrete sack.

Have patience and fun.
Sven

Folks use string, lasers, 8' fluorescent lamps, 2x4'"s, chalk marks on the floor, you name it.
The important thing is to check it again after road testing and tweaking lean-out.
It' s still just a reference point to start with. Measured from in front of the bike front wheel and behind the rear wheel will give you a measurement (ideally) of between 1/4" toe-in and 1 1/4" toe-in depending upon the track width of your rig. Sometoe-in is needed for true alignment but the less you can dial in is usually better as far as tire wear is concerned.
To track true on the road the bike leanout is what should be tweaked to obtain neutral steering. Many will increase toe-in to get good tracking but all they accomplish doing it this way is a very short tire life from the sidecar tire scrubbing while trying to push the rig to the left. Both the sidecar tire and rear bike tire are affected adversly with too much toe-in.

Lonnie

I have a protractor as I use it for checking alinement on Harley s. Harley does it where the lean when sitting on it should be correct when rider sits on it I do think. My front and rear tire are the same size so that is not a problem.

I have to use something very cheap as something does not change come Sept 6th they are cutting my power off. I am disabled and government jerking me around on my disability that I have been paying into since 1970. One reason I am finally putting the side car on what doctors I can afford to see say good chance I will be in a wheelchair in 4 to 6 years.

Might just sell about everything I have put the rest in storage then hit the road till the money runs out.
Thanks

Thanks guys for the input. I have two Harley sidecar manuals one the year of the bike which is 2002 and one the year of the sidecar 2006. It does tell if it is pulling one way or another what to do. But I like very much hearing from the experts. Just like any manual I have used some things have to be done a little different.

So all recommend lean out to start with? A good friend of min that does not live in Georgia any more said to start with lean out first and do not pay any attention to the book on that.

Here at my house I can completely build a motor including machine work other then twin cam flywheel assembly but never put a sidecar on so I can use all the input from those that know more about them then I.
Thanks
Jeff

Lonnie the Harley sidecar manual says about the same thing as you did on toe in. They recommend 3/4 to no more then 1 inch.

What do you recommend to start with on lean out 1 degree?

1 degree positive works fine for me. I weigh 180 which is the Harley optimum weight used to figure their setup specs. I don't think they factor in road crown.

Lonnie

Blocks and 10 ft metal electrical conduit. I happen to have an 8 ft level ( that someone gave me a few years ago ) to check the conduit to make sure it's straight.
If I didn't have the conduit, I'd use the 8 ft lamps previously mentioned.

Is positive lean away from the sidecar or towards the sidecar?
Thanks all for the lessons and help!

I use 8-foot lengths of steel conduit hanger brackets. The bracket that gets attached to the wall or ceiling, used to mount breaker boxes or suspend conduit via threaded rod. They're shapped like U-channel and have holes so they are't so heavy. I confirm their true-ness by setting them on a known level cement pad. I then set the brackets on small bricks of equal hight. I measure toe at the bike axles for consistancy of measurment.

Some take a measurement at 8' or 10', some use the wheelbase, some use another distance for this measurement. This is why there is no "ideal" one size fits all formula for toe-in.
I use 1"x1" square tubing guages placed upon 4"x4" blocks and tight against the rear wheel (only) and measure from in front of the front bike wheel and behind the rear wheel.
Getting some toe-in is critical. How much works for you depends upon variables like the track width of the rig, the wheelbase length and the trim attitude of the sidecar.
After a few road miles one can check the sidecar tire for evidence of lateral scrubbing. This will normally show up as a slight featheredge on one side of individual tread bars and a rounding of the edge on the other side. If the outside edges are rounding you have too much toe-in. If the bike sideis rounding you have too little toe-in. If the tread shows no abnormal wear on either side you are set about right.
The remainder of tweaking for neutral steering is with the leanout of the bike. If this is needed, be sure to recheck the toe-in and observe the tire wear pattern occasonally for the best tire life.

A reminder: Some bikes have the same wheel and tire width but the rear wheel and front wheel are usually not in perfect alignment. This can be caused by many factors; rear wheel adjustment to tension chains or belts, worn swingarm bushings , bent swingarm, or front forks not true from various causes.
If this is the case, place the bike side of your straightedge guage on the side of the rear bike tire that doesn't touch the front tire. Since the front tire constantly turns, the stationary rear tire is the only one that affects toe-in alignment for the sidecar rig.

Lonnie

Thank for all the information. If things go as I plain I have six months to get it right and if I am able to sell 80% of my belongings I will be hitting the road for about a year. Hopefully I will get a chance to meet some of the members here or meet them on the road for a ride as long as others want. Bike now has 88,000 plus on it but with the right tools there is nothing I can not do on it. The sidecar will mostly have things to keep the rig going.
Thanks
Jeff

Jeff, that sounds like you are heading for THE BIG Journey.

Watch out when you meet the cops:

and don't forget to take first your driving lessons:

Well, I was looking now an hour, but couldn't find the UK versions of both films.
For now enjoy and head for the best!
Dont be too shy
and we here I wish you all the best.

Sven from Costa Rica

PS: The day I'll get my call I hope to be able to hop on my bike or rig and have a change to keep my boots on.

I will have at least 6 months to get use to the sidecar. I have read most of Hal Kendall book on driving a sidecar.
Thanks for the input.

I like Cat Stevens a lot. The other two video where really good. LOL