Floyd, remember....oil that cam and the journals, before tightening things down. Slow and easy does it.
Thanks Miles. Got my cams set, valves adjusted, and a couple other minor things done today. I've always liked AMSOIL products and used AMSOIL Assembly Lube liberally. Not sure what happened, but the first time I hand cranked the engine the cam settings were off. I think maybe the chain slipped or wasn't seated good on the crank sprocket. It took me 3 or 4 tries to get it right. I wanted to check with the cams snugged down so that meant removing and replacing 10 caps each time. I didn't torque them down until the last time. I then hand cranked the engine 3-4 times and everything looked good. No problem adjusting the valves, except a very tedious process. I like to adjust valves towards the higher, looser side knowing they will tighten as they wear. After rotating the engine and checking the valves again, a few of them felt too loose so I re-did those. Now to get the valve cover on and get everything else buttoned up. I plan to do a compression test before first start then do a carb sync before putting the fairing pieces on.
Floyd, good job getting it all timed, valves adjusted, and back together.
My wife and I are driving around Europe in our own car, that I purchased in Germany in February. We are waiting for our Sidecar rig to show up, as it was shipped from Olympia, Washington to Orlando, Florida, then to Heidelberg, Germany.
According to Chris Knopf, so of Stefan Knopf, it should be at their place today, Wednesday...and potentially in my hands on Friday, depending on Customs Inspections, etc.
Then we will spend a couple weeks driving the Euro -Wing Sidecar rig around Europe.
Two Million Mile Rider
Exploring the World in Comfort
@floyd-h Well, from my experience, usually if compression goes up with a little oil, then the piston rings are getting weak.
Probably will run fine, but maybe less power than if all was happy. Might use a little oil, but maybe not.
I always check warm, with throttle wide open... just me, though.
I always check warm, with throttle wide open... just me, though.
Thanks, Ben. I did hold the throttle wide open on each check, but the engine was not warmed up. I'll do a check again after I fire it up and let you know what it shows.
Floyd, at 3:08 am in Heidelberg, Germany....we have questions.
All you did was replace the top end of the engine, just from the head gasket UP.....right ?
The addition of a small amount of oil to each cylinder is to check on piston rings, and potentially loosen up any rings that stuck, due to non operation for a period of time.
I would suggest 2 things:
Check cylinders 3 and 4 one more time for correct valve adjustment, making certain that the valves on those 2 cylinders, especially # 4, are closing all the way, and the best test for this is to apply compressed air to that cylinder via the sparkplug hole, when that cylinder is atTDC.
If you hear air leaking out via the intake...carbs....then you know the intake valve is not fully closed. If the air leaks out via the muffler, then it's the exhaust valve that is not fully closed.
If no air leak found...good...go on to item # 2.
Use 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder, all at the same time, and leave all the sparkplugs out.
Pour 4 ounces of the Marvel Mystery Oil into each sparkplug hole.
Lay a shop rag or towel over top of all 4 sparkplug holes, just lay it there, to avoid spraying oil all over the engine and garage.
Using a battery charger connected to the bike battery, crank the engine over with the ignition switch...for 10 seconds.
Wait 30 seconds....then crank the engine again for 10 seconds.
Wait 30 seconds....then crank the engine one last time for 10 seconds.
Let the engine sit overnight, allowing the Marvel Mystery Oil to do what it mysteriously does.
Next day, run a complete engine compression test again, on this cold engine.
Two Million Mile Rider
Exploring the World in Comfort
