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Toe in setting

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(@gnm109)
Posts: 1388
Noble Member
 

Hack'n - 11/26/2009 10:57 AM

I'm still using my Craftsman US model too. If it finally dies from forgetting to take it off the front rotor and driving off with it attached I will start using the brand new (a few years back) chinese one I have in my desk.
(They do read the same even tho' the Chinese one is upside down).
I also have a Taiwanee digital vernier caliper sitting next to it, also unused. Haven't read it yet.;)

Happy Holidays 🙂

Happy Holidays to you as well, my friend~! I certainly have appreciated all of the info that you have to offer on this site in the past few years. Keep up the good work!

As to the Chinese measuring tools, we might as well get used to it! They are here to stay. The good old companies such as Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Lufkin, Federal and the like are either gone forever, gone Chinese or so high priced as to be out of sight for mere mortals. The really good Japanese ones such as Mitutoyo as very high priced, although they represent the best available in the market right now.

My son gave me an Avenger (Chinese) 6" digital caliper for Christmas a couple of years ago. I seldom used it and only kept it on my desk here in the office since it seemed that it was very hard on batteries. It was always dead or on the way out whenever I tried to use it.

I checked recently and found out on one of the machining sites that I visit that the LR-44 or SR-44 batteries that I had been using are noted for short life. I was told to get some Energizer 303/357 batteries. (Same size but silver oxide rather than plain alkaline). Man, what a difference! It's been going now for three months with no end in sight even using it every day.

I have a Mitutoyo (Japanese) 2-axis Digital Readout (DRO) on my Taiwanese Webb Mill and it's great. I also have a no-name 6" Chinese digital scale on the mill's Z axis and it's also good with the 303/357 Energizers.

I wish that the U.S. Companies were still going but unfortunately, they aren't. I still have my 1" Lufkin micrometer that I got 40 years ago for replacing the flywheel bearings on a friend's 500cc Ariel single. It's real quality but then, the Harbor Freight ones that I have seem to be every bit as accurate. Go figure.

Happy Holidays and Happy Sidecar Rides to all from California!


 
Posted : November 26, 2009 8:22 am
(@sidecar-2)
Posts: 1696
Noble Member
 

gnm109 - 11/26/2009 1:22 PM

Hack'n - 11/26/2009 10:57 AM I'm still using my Craftsman US model too. If it finally dies from forgetting to take it off the front rotor and driving off with it attached I will start using the brand new (a few years back) chinese one I have in my desk. (They do read the same even tho' the Chinese one is upside down). I also have a Taiwanee digital vernier caliper sitting next to it, also unused. Haven't read it yet.;) Happy Holidays 🙂

Happy Holidays to you as well, my friend~! I certainly have appreciated all of the info that you have to offer on this site in the past few years. Keep up the good work! As to the Chinese measuring tools, we might as well get used to it! They are here to stay. The good old companies such as Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Lufkin, Federal and the like are either gone forever, gone Chinese or so high priced as to be out of sight for mere mortals. The really good Japanese ones such as Mitutoyo as very high priced, although they represent the best available in the market right now. My son gave me an Avenger (Chinese) 6" digital caliper for Christmas a couple of years ago. I seldom used it and only kept it on my desk here in the office since it seemed that it was very hard on batteries. It was always dead or on the way out whenever I tried to use it. I checked recently and found out on one of the machining sites that I visit that the LR-44 or SR-44 batteries that I had been using are noted for short life. I was told to get some Energizer 303/357 batteries. (Same size but silver oxide rather than plain alkaline). Man, what a difference! It's been going now for three months with no end in sight even using it every day. I have a Mitutoyo (Japanese) 2-axis Digital Readout (DRO) on my Taiwanese Webb Mill and it's great. I also have a no-name 6" Chinese digital scale on the mill's Z axis and it's also good with the 303/357 Energizers. I wish that the U.S. Companies were still going but unfortunately, they aren't. I still have my 1" Lufkin micrometer that I got 40 years ago for replacing the flywheel bearings on a friend's 500cc Ariel single. It's real quality but then, the Harbor Freight ones that I have seem to be every bit as accurate. Go figure. Happy Holidays and Happy Sidecar Rides to all from California!

I remember dealing with the Harbor Freight store in Lexington, KY back in the early 80's. Back then if you got home without it breaking you were pretty lucky. I remember buying a hydraulic press and an engine hoist(cherry picker). On the way home with my purchase, I stopped at NAPA and purchased replacement hydraulic jacks for both. Although HF stuff is still cheaper, the quality has come up dramatically since then. These days the stuff NAPA sells appears to be coming out of the same plants in China.


 
Posted : November 26, 2009 9:40 am
(@gnm109)
Posts: 1388
Noble Member
 

SidecarMike - 11/26/2009 12:40 PM

I remember dealing with the Harbor Freight store in Lexington, KY back in the early 80's.  Back then if you got home without it breaking you were pretty lucky.  I remember buying a hydraulic press and an engine hoist(cherry picker).  On the way home with my purchase, I stopped at NAPA and purchased replacement hydraulic jacks for both.  Although HF stuff is still cheaper, the quality has come up dramatically since then.  These days the stuff NAPA sells appears to be coming out of the same plants in China.

Some of the items from Harbor Freight are OK and others aren't. I have a 20 ton (rated) press with the original jack in it that I bought from them 10 years ago and it's still going. The air tools ore OK and some of the measuring tools.

I tried a plastic welding kit last month and had to take it back. It was DOA. I got my money back, though.

Other items like sanding disks and cutting disks are OK. You have to consider what's good and what isn't. Other than that it's Enco, McMaster-Carr and so one.


 
Posted : November 26, 2009 10:23 am
(@sidecar-2)
Posts: 1696
Noble Member
 

When my kid enrolled in the motorcycle mechanic's program I gave him my air tools and bought myself new HF stuff. I figured he will work flat rate one day and needs the good stuff better than I will any more. So far I'm pleased with my purchases. I've also got a 3/4" drive socket set from them that I've had for thirty years. They're a great place for small supplies, i.e. scotch connectors, shrink wrap, replacement tonneau cover snaps, silver solder, etc.

😉 My son liked to play games with other students. Whenever someone asked to borrow my old Ingersoll 1/2" impact, he would warn them that it's 30 years old and ask that they be careful with it. They assume he means it's weak. He doesn't tell them that it was rated at 950 ft lbs when new and has probably three hours of use since last rebuilt. It looks bad, but can still snap a wheel stud off a 1/2 ton truck if you're not careful.


 
Posted : November 26, 2009 11:04 am
(@sidecar-2)
Posts: 1696
Noble Member
 

I went to the garage to get my Harbor Freight Magnetic Protractor for another project.

Imagine my surprise when I saw the three little words in the upper right of the label.

Photobucket


 
Posted : December 3, 2009 1:11 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Starting out with a set amount of Toe In may work, depending on what you do next. Rember, you can't feel too much Toe In when riding, but you can feel not enought. This worked for me. I use the Bike rear Wheel and the sidecar wheel ONLY. Set toe in to 0 (None) Ride it and keep adjusting a small amount at the time until it feels right. This allowes you to set the least amount of tow in the rig will run with and gives you the best rear tire you can expect. If you start with a set amount of toe in and the rig feels right you may have passed the least amount the rig will run with. Rear tire wear may not be the best you can get.
I can up with the way of setting toe in when setting up my rig, reading all the many diferent ways to do this, getting totaly confused. I tried it as indicated above and it worked.


 
Posted : December 4, 2009 1:11 am
(@big-bike-rick)
Posts: 86
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Jack , and anyone else that wants to chime in....I didnt know you could not feel any difference with TOO MUCH toe in, can you please explain how the rig would feel with not enough toe in? I am running about 1/2 inch at the moment, and my rear Metzeler me 880 is pretty much worn down the middle. I had about 1/2 treadwear left when I started with the rig on. I think maybe I have put about 150-200 miles tops on it, mostly all around town, with a little 65 mph highway riding, Rick.


 
Posted : December 5, 2009 4:30 pm
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