Starting my CSC Friendship 1 and 1500 Goldwing project. Testing a CSC lean motor?

Make sure it has  clean ground. simple 12 volts Use a fused power source. Two power wire one up one down .

If it has been sitting a while clean up pivot points lube with something like JB8 let it soak a bit.

Take your time you have a project ahead or you.

Wiring lights will depend on the bike.  Year. ODB2 years may need load levelers , CANBUS the newer years may need more than just splicing wires.

Install a connector between sidecar and bike.  Make sure you have a good ground.

You will need

Stop light wire

Right  turn signal

Hot wire for Marker lights,front light and tail light

Quote from Quick_Cal on November 18, 2022, 11:29 pm

..... talk to me like I was a six year old when it comes to wiring..... lol.

If'n it makes you feel any better, Cal, I'm no better at wiring (seems electrical issues can't be solved with a "bigger hammer"). 

The way to check it out is you have to hook up one of the two wires to positive and one to ground, the motor will go one way then switch them and it will go the other way won’t work trying to ground the motor this is why you have to wire in dual relay’s when you go to hook it up to the switch 

Cal  go ahead and start a thread about your build here and you can use it to ask all the questions you want or need. you can keep it up dated as you go and add pictures of your progress. Then maybe we can combine your other threads together so it all stays together 

The "motor" as you call it is actually called a linear actuator.  If yours needs replacing, "linear actuator" is what you need to search for on Google.  You'll also need some basic specs like overall length and stroke length.  If you need help, use this thread to ask more questions.  Also note that if it's dead you don't have to replace it with a new one.  You can replace it with a fixed strut.

I've tested actuators in the past with a standalone 12V moto battery (car battery is OK too) and simply connecting one wire to + and one wire to - .  Just touch the wires to the terminals for a moment.  That should make the actuator actuate. Switch the wires around to actuate it in the other direction.  If you're sure you have good contact and the actuator doesn't actuate, then either (1) your battery is weak, or (2) the actuator is dead, or (3) the wires between the battery and the actuator have a break in them somewhere.

Up above somebody said something about grounding the actuator to the frame but of course that will only work if the battery is also grounded to the frame.

Fuses are used to protect your bike from short circuits.  You don't need a fuse when using a standalone 12V battery for testing since the actuator and battery are not connected to the bike's wiring harness.

There's a couple of different ways to wire those two wires correctly to a switch.   And a bunch of ways to do it wrong.  When you get to that point, come on back to this thread for more info.

Ok guy's. Thanks for all the help.

Can I edit my title of this thread to say my official build or something. The reason I ask is that on some forums I think I edit it, but it's not,,,lol..

I'll try and see what happens. Thanks

Success!!

I tested as you guys said. It works both up and down. So that's good news.

I'm sure I read it somewhere where another guy was testing his "linear actuator" and he said when it got to the end of it's travel it sounded like a gear was stripping. But they said that was perfectly normal. I can't remember how they described what was actually going on. But mine does that at each end of travel. So that's normal. Right,,,lol.

Man I'm glad that it works. The shaft looked pretty dry. Should I lube it with some light oil maybe? What do you guys recommend? Or leave it dry?

Thanks

BTW. Is there a way to preview my post before submitting it?

No preview function here, but fairly easy to post it, eyeball it, then edit it as needed (edit button is at the top of the post).  It's not like these threads are getting 10 replies an hour!

Grease on the shaft will attract dirt.  Clean it with some WD-40 and a rag and call it good.  The only place they really need grease is on the internal worm gear and that's supposedly pre-lubed for life.  But if you're feeling ambitious, the actuator housing should be removable if you wanted to get in there and service it.

The clicking noise at the end of the stroke can be disconcerting but I like that it's loud because I need to be able to hear it through my earplugs over wind noise and the running engine.  Reaching the stop is not supposed to be harmful, but I don't like pushing against the stop any longer than the minimum.  Might not be harmful, but can't be beneficial either.

When you reach max up or down you will hear that sound.

The ECC works great until they die.

When you wire it run wire that only go to the ECC and are fused.

Mine has a 30 AMP fuse.

Give some serious thought to where you will mount the switch. Mine is on the left side by clutch  I can reach it with one finger without removing hand from grip.

Quote from DRONE on November 20, 2022, 12:41 am

But if you're feeling ambitious, the actuator housing should be removable if you wanted to get in there and service it.

 

If it aint broke,,,I aint gonna fix it,,,lol.  Unless of course you guys say I really do need to get in there and grease it?

I assume you fly a drone? I have a Phantom 3 Pro that I got a great deal on a few years back. But that hobby never really took off,,,lol. I keep saying I'n goining to dig that thing out one of these days.

Quote from smitty901 on November 20, 2022, 6:34 am

When you reach max up or down you will hear that sound.

The ECC works great until they die.

When you wire it run wire that only go to the ECC and are fused.

Mine has a 30 AMP fuse.

Give some serious thought to where you will mount the switch. Mine is on the left side by clutch  I can reach it with one finger without removing hand from grip.

When the ECC dies, can they be repaired? What dies? The motor windings? If that's the case would it would be cheaper to get the motor rewound compared to buying a new ECC?  But luckily I think I'm good for now.

I have a 1500 Goldwing specific install manual, and switch box (no switch) coming. In it it says that the box gets mounted underneath the Goldwings turn signal housing. So that puts it right there where you suggest.

I'm not sure if I'm going to like this switch box. Looks big and bulky. I for sure don't like the look of a toggle switch. Looks cheap to me,,,lol. I'd rather use a rocker switch. Once I get it in my possession I'll see how it looks. If there's room I might put 2 rocker switches in there. 

Here's some pics from floridasidecars.com website.

 In most case older ECC that has lived it's life. better to replace that tray and replace parts.  I would not worry to much about unless it gives you reason to.

My current one has about 65,000 miles of use. Only issue blew a fuse once due to a shorted wire.

Just FYI you can get a single rocker switch that is dual I have mine wired that way 

If you go with a rocker switch, you'll need to source a weather-resistant one with a 30-amp rating that won't be too bulky.  Hard to find.  The 30-amp toggle that most guys use, on the other hand, are common and cheap.  And, yes, unattractive.

I installed a nice-looking polished aluminum switch from Pingel (see pic below) on my GS rig (link -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OO2QP4/ ).  Because it had a low amp rating I had to run the actuator leads through two relays using a fairly complicated wiring scheme (schematic attached below).  Since you said in Post #1 that you're electrically challenged, I wouldn't suggest it.  Anybody else reading this thread, if you click on that Amazon link you'll see my review where I go into some specifics about the Pingel.  It did work really great once I got it sorted, and looked great on the bars, too.  There are other 7/8" bar switches on Amazon that might work better though.

With a 30-amp switch no relays are needed.  Simple wiring diagrams can be found using Google Images.  You can try using a 20-amp switch but I wouldn't recommend it because most actuators used on sidecars will actually pull 20 amps and that'll make your switch the weakest part of your actuator circuit.