Velorex frame is 28" the plate looks like 8"x36"+-, approximately two square feet of A36 steel.
So 85# to 88# seems about right for this ballast plate.
A also use the square tubes to set toe in. On a Velorex rig about 3/8" works nicely since the track is narrower than the HD cars.
About 1 degree of leanout using the magnetic angle gauge with the driver mounted.
Lonnie
Part of the problem with the setup is that the subframe that I made moves the car away from the bike so it was a problem not having the threaded rods too far out so I solved that by the fitting on the front of the car frame for the forward long strut. I read somewhere that the long struts should not be parallel so I made a fitting that bolts to the frame for the aft long strut as far aft as I could and used a frame clamp on the car frame. I added the last ,farthest aft mount as an afterthought and it doesn't do all that much except in the vertical. When the aft long strut was attatched to the car there, it had a tendancy for the car to lower after a couple trail rides. It's all a bit cobby but I havn't modified any of the original structure except for the swing arm tower while I'm learning. I don't know the measurement of the plate but a certified scale that we use for aircraft weight and balance said it was 88 lbs so I stamped that on there and put it on to try it out. The mounts for that do spread the weight as far as possible on the frame and I agree that I could use half the weight with twice the arm. It's just that that's what I had and I didn't want to cut it up yet. I have a couple of straight 10' square tubes that I use for the toe in. I need to figure the weight of just the body and fender and associated stuff so I can put some sandbags on the car frame for when I do the final swingarm tower setup. I spose I'll just have to weigh those parts, unless I just guess. I could drag a scale home or maybe see if that bathroom scale is still around here somewhere... Thanks for the input!! john
Well I guessed at sidecar body weight,I figured there were enough variables that I didn't need to be super criticle on that. One degree of positive camber turned to zero degrees with me on the bike. So tomorrow morning I'll see if I agree with what I did and if so, weld it up. Rick I've admired your bike since you posted over on the Wild Guzzi Forum . Nice Job! I don't know if you noticed that on my Bassa, I have stepped on it a bit. Dual plug Mike Rich heads with injectors from an 1100 Sport, Norris "S" cam from Megacycle , FIM ultimap by Doug Lofgren and stuff like that. I bought it new and started tweaking right away, It has over 100K miles on it and has always been super reliable except I tried a 94mm big bore kit from Agostini but one of the bores went out of round- what a torque monster THAT was. I use a ten spring clutch from a Sport also because even without a car attatched with an eight spring, it would drive right through the clutch on a hard pull unless the clutch was perfect. So far the 10 spring has been great,I just wish I had a spare so I could make a heavy flywheel in the 10 spring version. John
wow, john! you have done some impressive mods to your Bassa! Did you replace the stock wheels with tubeless ev wheels? I am getting ready to try and make my stock wheels tubeless by sealing up the inside of the spoke nipples per Greg Fields method, but a little different . Using a marine urethane sealer instead of silicone. You are going to have a truly one of a kind rig. I love the look of the rear of the sidecar, it reminds me of the old E Type racing jaguars of the sixties/ early 70's . I am excited to see pictures of your completed rig. Dont worry too much about the paint.....Thats why God invented sandpaper! ( thats what I keep telling myself when I mess up) I just got finished installing an EV touring fairing on my bike, painted to match. Keep up the good work, Rick.
Thanks for the kind words, Rick. I got the shock tower welded on, I ended up with one degree of positive camber, and with me on the bike it turns to a couple degrees of negative camber, it's hard to measure untill I get some friends over to look at it, I been using a mirror to look at the level clamped to the car wheel. Whatever it is, it has to be better than before, when it had visable negative camber!! . It'll probly change too as I bounce it around once it warms up and I actually try to ride it.
