VLAD - 11/23/2015 10:40 AM
I think something wrong with your Goldwing.
Me too, one of the things wrong is the gearing is too tall for this hack.
That's why I'm trying to address it. 🙂
It's what I've got. It may have serious issues, I'm really not sure. I'm just trying to get it working better.
I've fixed a lot of problems on it in the short time I have had it. It's definitely getting better.
It's just not quite right yet. This is the first large Honda I have ever owned and I really have grown fond of it.
I love the engineering.
VLAD - 11/23/2015 10:31 AM
Hey fastjoe! Why are you worry about shaft and u joint going 1" up, but not worry about shaft and u joint going 1 1/2' down?
I'm not sure I understand your question.
I'm not worried at all about running the driveshaft in the range it was designed to be run in.
I'm concerned about running it where it was never designed to run which would happen with a longer than spec'd shock.
Though most of the time it will be running within the range it was designed to run in with a longer shock there are times when it maybe running fully extended and supplying a lot of torque. After hitting a large bump for instance or going through a pothole. Don't want to make something that will break and leave me stranded if I can avoid it.
fastjoe - 11/23/2015 8:39 PM
VLAD - 11/23/2015 10:40 AM
I think something wrong with your Goldwing.
Me too, one of the things wrong is the gearing is too tall for this hack.
That's why I'm trying to address it. 🙂
It's what I've got. It may have serious issues, I'm really not sure. I'm just trying to get it working better.
I've fixed a lot of problems on it in the short time I have had it. It's definitely getting better.
It's just not quite right yet. This is the first large Honda I have ever owned and I really have grown fond of it.
I love the engineering.
I have same bike with taller gearing(bigger tire) and do not thing gearing is too tall for this hack. May be you need to check your carbs, timing , etc.... Looks like it do not produce as much power as it can.
VLAD - 11/24/2015 7:45 AM
fastjoe - 11/23/2015 8:39 PM
VLAD - 11/23/2015 10:40 AM
I think something wrong with your Goldwing.
Me too, one of the things wrong is the gearing is too tall for this hack.
That's why I'm trying to address it. 🙂
It's what I've got. It may have serious issues, I'm really not sure. I'm just trying to get it working better.
I've fixed a lot of problems on it in the short time I have had it. It's definitely getting better.
It's just not quite right yet. This is the first large Honda I have ever owned and I really have grown fond of it.
I love the engineering.I have same bike with taller gearing(bigger tire) and do not thing gearing is too tall for this hack. May be you need to check your carbs, timing , etc.... Looks like it do not produce as much power as it can.
It makes sense. I will definitely look into it. This bike has probably never had the timing checked, at least not in a very long time. This spring I will do tha or maybe even sooner than thatt.
The carbs have been rebuilt and work pretty good after I ran a couple of cans of seafoam through them. The mufflers are not stock and are pretty straight through which might be costing me some torque down low. I need to check the afr to be sure it is not running lean also. I put new timing belts and idlers on it so I am sure the cam timing is correct.
I believe the Tstat is bad as this bike is very slow to warm up when it is cold out. That needs attention too but I will do that in the summer.
Thanks for the help.
Looks like you have a lot on your plate.
VLAD - 11/25/2015 6:37 AM
Looks like you have a lot on your plate.
It can be this way with used bikes sometimes. You take your chances when you buy one.
What mufflers are you running? Are they stock?
Stock mufflers.
Thanks,
I'm guessing that a lot of my missing low end torque has to do with the louder, straight though mufflers that were put on this bike by the previous owner. I think I have a set of stock ones but they aren't where I am right now unfortunately. I'll have to address that problem correctly in the spring. Right now I'll see if I have enough stuff here to fab up something to create a little back pressure to restore some of the missing torque. It's won't be as good as the factory muffler but it should help.
Thanks again you've been most helpful.
fastjoe
When I got my '94 Wing/Escort, it was running, took a test ride before buying but was not running at optimum efficiency. Like you I had no previous experience with the Wings. After my trying to sort it out, finally took it to an older experienced Wing mechanic for a tune up. He knows these machines inside and out, knew what to look for. He found parts that were installed backwards, etc. now it runs like a top, cruising at 80 + on the interstate all day long. Plenty of low end torque (with stock mufflers and gearing) for a five gallon aux fuel tank, tools, parts and gear for a month on the road.
Was not inexpensive but worth every penny. Ask some of the older Wing riders in your area who they would trust to work on their GW.
Good luck getting it sorted out.
I'll do that. I'm in phoenix area right now so there should be someone local who can look at it here. I'll ask around.
Don't u think that getting the rear height back up to factory height spec will actually get the drive shaft back into the correct alignment and the current situation is misaligned?
If you use automotive tire you can't get factory correct alignment. It is ether +1" or -1.5". I don't think it will be a problem in both cases.
High Octane - 11/27/2015 5:00 AM
Don't u think that getting the rear height back up to factory height spec will actually get the drive shaft back into the correct alignment and the current situation is misaligned?
It depends on how I do it. If I put a stock or slightly taller than stock tire on, to get more clearance there is no misalignment. Right now there is no misalignment just not what I would consider optimum clearance in the back because the sidewall of the tire is shorter and the tire has a flat profile too.
It is the length of the shock that determines the angle of the U joint. The longer the shock the greater the angle of the U joint when the shock is fully extended. Right now I will concentrate on getting more clearance through slugs in the fork tubes and the correct sag. When I get that done I will see how the bike looks and go from there. The good thing is that no one has popped up in these conversations and said don't use longer shocks, I knew someone who did that and broke their bike. That gives me hope.
Yeah on my 200 mile drive home from turkey day I thought thru this and have a better understanding of how a shorter tire doesn't change the shaft angle very much. If I thought thru it right, the ce ter line of the axel to the ground is less but the engine end of drive shaft is also lower so the angle stays approximately the same. But the bike frame is also lower to the ground, thus the speed bump problem. And raising the frame with longer shocks puts the engine end if the drive shaft up a ways, and thus the question on shaft angle.
Ok so I get it now. But I don't have any help for u on if a new shaft angle will be a problem.
I run a Volkswagen rim on my 89 1500/Escort and with a low profile radial it is quite low. Drags on speed bumps, getting and out of trailer etc. I have the Progressive single shock on the rear and 1 and a half inch risers on top of easy-steer. I am thinking that a longer shock would put a little too much strain on my rig so I'll just live with it because otherwise the rig handles excellent.
Ralph
