I'm (we) are pulling the tub off of my FLHRCI as a class project on monday, performing a 20k check, and then reinstalling the sidecar as per factory specs, which will be 1 degree of lean-in. This will be my first experience with a full blown set-up. I'm looking forward to seeing how combinations of lean and toe adjustments affect handling.
I can attest to the comments about earlier generations of big-twins....and I actually prefer the old school motors. The original "F" motors were good for 100k miles. The Knuckle and Pan motors are really well designed and reliable....and you don't need a laptop and software disc if you decide to change the pipes.... O.K, they leaked oil, so did my dads '61 Mercury and every other vehicle I can ever remember during my childhood.....and my 1991 BMW 325 IX has needed an oil pan beneath it since the warranty expired.....it doesn't have a cup holder either!!....German Technology.....PHOOEY!!! LOL : )
Originally written by ditch on 3/29/2008 6:53 AM
I'm (we) are pulling the tub off of my FLHRCI as a class project on monday, performing a 20k check, and then reinstalling the sidecar as per factory specs, which will be 1 degree of lean-in. This will be my first experience with a full blown set-up. I'm looking forward to seeing how combinations of lean and toe adjustments affect handling.
I can attest to the comments about earlier generations of big-twins....and I actually prefer the old school motors. The original "F" motors were good for 100k miles. The Knuckle and Pan motors are really well designed and reliable....and you don't need a laptop and software disc if you decide to change the pipes.... O.K, they leaked oil, so did my dads '61 Mercury and every other vehicle I can ever remember during my childhood.....and my 1991 BMW 325 IX has needed an oil pan beneath it since the warranty expired.....it doesn't have a cup holder either!!....German Technology.....PHOOEY!!! LOL : )
Without regard to any brand comments.....LOL.
Make sure that you have your magnetic protractor nearby when you do your "class project". That will do nicely to make sure that the lean-in is set along with the horizontality of the frame.
I also have two lengths of 1-1/4" X 10' heavy gauge square steel tubing to set the toe-in. They were cut from one 20' length with 4" feet welded on at each end. These give me a perfect straight edge for setting toe-in and they store nicely in the corner of my garage. Cost me $20 but they totally eliminate the guesswork.
Unless you feel the need, there's really no reason to separate the sidecar when you do your "project". Have fun!
God Speed!
109,
A similar system for alignment has worked for me for the last couple of decades.
I use the magnetic angle gauge (Protractor)on a front disc rotor or tire bead seat part of the front rim on bikes without a rotor. I don't use the rim flange edge itself as they usually have some runout.
I use lower tech straight edges. Square steel tube 1"x1"x10' with .120" wall perched upon two coffee cans.
I've found that setting a 1 degree lean-out with the rig preloaded to the desired usual road load is a good starting point that often doesn't need to be changed.
I also determine the toe-in at the wheelbase of the bike I'm working with (directly below the front and rear axle) since I work with most models and Marques and very few share the same wheelbase.
For toe-in I'll pick a number that has worked with this size combo before for starters.
Using numbers like 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" for toe-in recommendations don't work unless all gauge lengths and wheelbases are the same.
A 1/2" toe-in measured at 10' is going to be 1/4" toe-in for a bike with a 60" wheelbase. About 5/16" for a 72" W/B bike.
For handling, total tread width of the outfit also comes into play.
Then there's road crown, which is a constant variable (oxomoronic isn't it?).
All may take some fine tuning for the ideal ride.
I think sidehack rigs are somewhat like snowflakes: No two are exactly alike.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
Corect, the wheelbase is the key to setting toe-in.
I also built a cradle with wheels to hold the sidecar when it's removed and a wheeled "skate" to go under the wheel so I can roll it around for storage, although I've yet to store it.
Happy Trails!
One thing about the magnetic protractors is that they need to be checked from time to time. Alway schecking them on the same surface is a good idea. Yes, we use them.
There are good and not so good ones out there and they all will work for the purpose intended here. If you are using two of them make sure to check one against the other.
It isn't a huge deal if the readings are off slightly unless you don't know they are off.
It isn't even a big deal if the real accuracy is off as long as you can duplicate the reading when necesary.
One style that is really cheap is a kinda light orange plastic one.If you have a plastic one keep it away from heat and don't check something that has just been welded..lol.
If using a magnetic one around where fabrication has been done that included a some grinding be sure to get the grinding dust off of the magnet before using it.
We completed the 20k service, which if done properly includes just about everything that can be serviced. As a testament to the FLH platform: This rig has seen 21k hard miles. The most important things, brake pads, rotors, wheel bearings, neck bearings, alignment were all within wear limits. The bearing checks especially were still as smooth and tight as when it left the factory.
Tub goes back on today.
Hello Ditch,
you know what I am jealous about?
The floor.
I still have a concrete floor where dust is impossible to get rid of.
On the roof I made the same mistake too in keeping it too high.
The lighting goes lost and building costs raised too (in your case heating costs should be way high in the sky). And try to paint it...
18 years of rust and dust are collected up there.
My bikes are/were never so tidy. Normally the get a wash when they go into the shop for major repair.
Best regards
Sven Peter
