Top's done!!!
Going to try and powder coat the last couple of brackets tomorrow 🙂
You have done excellant work. The woodwork is beautiful. It may be a sin to cover up what you have done but have you considered coating the bottom with Rhino Hide like they do to pickup truck beds? It would not be as pretty but it would deal with rocks and gravel dings. Just a thought.
I got alot done today. The last of the metal parts that are going to be powder coated were. I have the frame back on the bike. The wheel bearings were packed. In the morning, I'm going to try and get things lined up. I'm going to paint the springs and the two brackets that hold the car to the frame. Maybe I'll be able to start piloting this contraption after all?????
Keep your fingers crossed.....
I'm making some more progress. There was a little problem with the frame. I got in a hurry and painted it before I did a finial fitting. The back mount warped a bit and threw things out of whack a little. To fix it I had to make a mount to replace one of the heim joints that had an offset hole to compensate for the warpage.
I need to come up with a way to check toe in on this rig the exhaust headers hang down to far to use a straight edge. I'm thinking about a string line? As soon as I get the toe in and lean out set, I can put the body back on/
A lot of the rigs I align have low interference.
For the one I'm working on today I used 2 short 4"x4" pieces. One in front of the front wheel of the bike and one just behind the rear wheel. A 1"x1" square tube pressed tightly against the rear wheel (only) gave me my left side guage. Sidecar side used the same setup. Measuring across from in front of the front tire and in back of the rear I look for 3/8" to 1/2" toe in and set lean-out at about 1 degree positive with the bike loaded.
Lonnie
The Tire pooks out past the wheel by quite a bit on my wing? Are you against the tire or the rim?
Thanks, Wes
I learned this from Lonnie. He used 2 coffee cans to support an 8 foot 1"X1" thin wall square tube against the sidecar wheel. Touching the rim is preferred, but you can use the tire if you can avoid the raised letters or the molding irregularities. With the front wheel set straight ahead, you can hook a tape measure on the center line rib of your cast wheels and measure the difference between the front and the back. I try to use as little toe in as possible. 1/4" to 3/8 would be optimum to keep the scrubbing effect to a minimum.
Thanks guys. I'll try that tomorrow I drilled all the holes in the trunk lid door and hinge today. Its mounted. I'll probably remove it to polish it up though. I have to paint the springs tomorrow then I can put the body on/ I hope things go good. Things seem to go better in my head than in reality. I left the key switch on a few days ago and ran the battery dead. Now it wont take a charge. I went to get a new one and my battery guy took off fri. for the weekend. I'll have to wait till Tuesday to see how things are now:o(
I went for a short ride with the body off today. My face hurts from smiling:o)
Found a battery Eh?
Stole one:o) I couldn't wait 🙂 There is a bit of a wobble that I had kind of expected. Around 15-20 mph. It seems to be worse when I am slowing down. I'll check the head bearings.
Looking good!
With the long trail of the GL you may need a steering damper to control the nose wiggle after the car is complete and loaded.
Did you notice much tire scrubbing in right turns with your sidecar wheel lead?
Lonnie
Thanks Lonnie.
I am thinking of making a dampener that will mount where the fork brace is now. It will bolt on there and I can mount a dampener to the left engine guard. I just have to work out a few details. I will probably even make the dampener.
Didn't notice much scrub. I only went a few miles. Had it up to 50 or so. I think I'm in love 🙂
Yahoo!!! That looks great. Can't wait to see the sidecar body on it.
