I decided it would be better that I started a new thread on this one. I've been scouring the internet for info on building sidecars. There's not much. I did find some great pictures and some technical info though. I think I have everything I need to continue.
The rig I'm designing will have a solid axle hooked to the frame. The buggy will have some suspension though. I found some leaf springs off of some old snowmobile. I payed $20 for two sets. I like old things and this will hopefully look old and classy when I get done. Here are the springs I'm using.
On Sat. I had to go to work. After I got my work done, I played a little. I took the aluminum wheel I bought on Ebay ($40) and bored it out for some Timken bearings. In the pictures you can see me indicating the wheel in to run true. In the second picture you can see the finished product. Notice that I bored an angle in the back of the hole. This is so I can change the bearings later if needed. The inside bearing is bigger than the outside. Now I can get some dimensions for my axle:o)
To be continued.....
I need to build a frame clamp and have a question. In this picture there is a strap that wraps around the frame tube. The block that bolts to it has a threaded hole in the center of it for the eye bolt. Does the eye bolt tighten the clamp to the frame tube? I assume there is a pad that it pushes against to keep from harming the frame?
Thanks, Wes
Looks like an OEM Velorex frame clamp ass'y.
They incorporate a heavy frame shim for tubes up to approximately 1 and 1/4", or 2 shims for smaller tubes to protect against spalling or crushing the bike frames. The 3/8" +- shim also has a locating dimple for the pointed eyebolt to seat on.
Jawa/Velorex uses four of these mounts in their attachment kit.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
Thanks Lonnie,
I have my axle drawn up and will start to machine it this week. I also have the buggy and frame design nearly finalized. I am going to get the fiberglass coming and will go get the plywood this week:o)Fun, Fun, Fun....
Getting excited about this, Wes
Hope you can find some real marine plywood to work with. My last marine (?) plywood buy had some unplugged blows that went through 5 of the 7 plys. Glad I wasn't building a boat.
Lonnie
No marine plywood to be found:o( I'll just have to make due:o) I can get 1/4" ply that is sanded on both sides. That should be good enough? I haven't looked at the HD yet. They might have some fancy furniture stuff I can use? I plan on fiber glassing over the whole thing when done.
I have my seals. Now just need to draw up my axle. Then I'll be in business.
I have that front mount figured out and have it started. I'll post some pictures this weekend.
Later, Wes
Originally written by Wngnut on 10/15/2008 5:02 PM
No marine plywood to be found:o( I'll just have to make due:o) I can get 1/4" ply that is sanded on both sides. That should be good enough? I haven't looked at the HD yet. They might have some fancy furniture stuff I can use? I plan on fiber glassing over the whole thing when done.
I have my seals. Now just need to draw up my axle. Then I'll be in business.
I have that front mount figured out and have it started. I'll post some pictures this weekend.
Later, Wes
As far as I've been able to tell, the only wood in the Harley sidecars is in the seat and the two blocks where the tub bolts to the frame. There are three bolts each block, three in front and three in the rear.
These two blocks are fiberglassed over. That's one reason that they are not tightened up very tight. Instead. Harley uses lock nuts to hold them tight. If you tighten up too much, you will crush the wood.
It sounds like you will have some fun. Are you going to manufacture all three mounts for the sidecar? Before you do that, you might consider picking up a set of Harley mounts. You can find them on eBay frequently. It would make the rest of the project that much easier.
Happy Trails!
I got started on my frame clamp today. I have the aluminum pad made and the threaded block made. I couldn't find any 10 gauge for the strap lying around. I'll have to get some. I'll pick up the Heim joint's next week.
1/8"x2" A36 strap stock works fine for the clamp straps. Some use short 90 degree bends to wrap the block, some don't. Either method seems to work OK.
Lonnie
Thanks Lonnie. Mine will just wrap around the frame tube. It won't have the 90 degree bends. I have my axle figured out now. I'll start on it next. I will probably make the clevis that hook over the heim joint's. I'll mill them out of key stock. Just a couple more things to wrap up and I can start on my frame:o)
Wes
Hey Wngnut, here's a pic of the Homemade Hack Frame that I built..."SKULL"
(Hope this pic work's...)
I have the clamp done. It will work pretty good I think.
I now have to figure out where the rest will mount up. I have some Ideas, I just have to make them out of metal and I'll be set:o)
Skull, Nice Job!!! I think If I like this, I'll make a coffin hack for my KZ650.
Wes
Wes,
If this is an '82 or '83 GL here are some of the positions I have used.
Lonnie
Thanks Lonnie. Those are on a GL1000. The frame on a 1200 is different by the looks of things. The brake pedal on mine is on the outside of the frame and in the way;O( In the last photo, There is what looks like, a sliding tube in a tube thingy? That looks problematic? I might build a kind of sub frame? that attaches to the bike. Then I can disconnect it easily. Still have some figurin to do.
Wes
Wes wrote:
>>>I might build a kind of sub frame? that attaches to the bike.<<
EXCELLENT IDEA!!Even though many setups can be made without the use of a subframe on almost any install a subframe has it up sides.
With a well thought out subframe the lower mounts can be placed at optimal postions to allow ease of adjustment as well as providing additional strength to the whole assembly. Placing the lower mount 'hinge points' the same distance from the ground and th ecenter of the bike will allow lean adjustments to be made with little to no effect on toe in. Also a subframe will allow the lower mounting points to be spread apart front to rear more for better strength with less chance of movemnt or flexing.
Pick out points for subframe attachment and then run tubing beweeen them and even past them to provide lower mounting points. You can also use th ecenter stand mounts as subframe pick up points.
The strap clamp you made looks very good. You can use similar mounts to secure the subframe to the bike frame and even use strap clamps on the subframe itself if desired.
Cantilevering the subframe out farther to the rear is a good idea. It allows the lower rear mount to be in a good place. You can brace it diagonally to the other side of the bike or to a tube secured to the center stand mounts. Check it out.
Subframes are great tools and even though a little more effort in needed to initially build one the final result is a much better system overall. If during a mounting project one has to search for mopunting points for the sidecar on th ebike frame I feel the search is much more profitiabel if th epoints found are for the subframe which will then allow you to put the actual sidecar mounting points in the best place possible.
