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Dogs on the rig, first serious test results

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(@peter-pan)
Posts: 2042
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Hello Friends,
quite a few of you drive with your dogs and I want to give my Irish setter "Nana" a good "last" time as I mentioned before.

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(best wishes here to Beemerchef Ara and his Spirit who are my favourite daily readings:"Ara, take it calm. There are just real ass holes who are better to avoid, because their only life's purpose is to turn other peoples lives painful. In these extreme cases its just best to get out of their reach and calm down...)
(I remember here an Californian tool maker "breathing hate in every moment" and a former SS-officer who still was proud about his of WW2-deads => both paid in a life and pay now down under for what they did))
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This weekend was my first serious dog riding experience with Nana.
I got quite a few lessons out of it and I am sure I will have to learn quite a few more.
1. The other dogs home become jealous...and scratch the paint of the sidecar.

2. Definitely an harness is needed and has to be hooked on at the breast! (The right size didn't arrive at the vet yet and I used only the tie.) "Nana" unintentionally flew out the rig in slow driven (but 90ΒΊ) curve because a Truck obstructed the entrance so I saw it too late!

3. The cord should be attached to the left side, Best in the angle point of the seat, And it must be very short!
I will have to look for a safety hook that can be opened easily (perhaps with a pull line)

4. Step out openings should better be assured with a net or door.

5. The foot area might become a trap for the dog, I think to close it of with a net.

6. Nana loves to rest her head on top of the s/c body and on the fender in the wind, so I think I should prepare a foam cover to smooth the vibrations.
At the same time that will give her more to hold on, the fibre glass is too slippy.

7. Doogles are often mentioned here. Till now I did not go faster then 40km/h and she herself runs 45km/h. We expect a rest of life expectancy of only 2 month. Will doogles be necessary? I guess that doogles for her, later might not fit to the other dogs at home.( Labrador and Pekinese breads) I have not even an idea where to find some. The only thing that I stepped into that eventually could serve are my 25 year old Klimax goggles or pool swimming goggles for humans.

8. The dog needs to get accustomed. On the first ride my son had her on his lap...pretty heavy so that his legs fell assleep.
But Sunday it worked best to give first a ride around the farm to the other two dogs, so that Nana became jealous on her own. What a barking and runig cloud that awoke the neigbourhood...in fact, suddenly they cross into your way and you have to take a lot of care.

9. The sidecar and your jacket start to stink!

I'd love to hear more tips.
Thanks in advance
Sven Peter


 
Posted : June 23, 2008 11:37 am
(@Hack__n)
Posts: 4720
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Sven,
Many of our clients with larger dog passengers use a two tether system with a shoulder harness to secure them. Placement depending on the anchor points available in the sidecar, but usually one to the front (footrest or grab bar) and one to the rear (usually luggage rack)to keep them aboard.

Many with smaller breeds just use the front position as many of them like to curl up in the nose of the hack after a while and take a snooze. A small blanket or pad works well with these guys.

Lonnie


 
Posted : June 23, 2008 1:04 pm
(@peter-pan)
Posts: 2042
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Topic starter
 

Thank's Hack'd,
I have seen it with the pekinees bread, in town she has to lurk and even posts on my knee for a better view, but on the road she rolls in on the blanket.
But I feel uncomfortable for the case if I have to break hard. That is my idea of the net. Now how to deal with the big one becomes with this small sidecar a little tricky.
The hook I see better placed in the lower back union of the harness. I got very impressed how that pretty big dog flew around her own neck at such a simple bend at low speed. I will drill a hole for a threaded chain loop in the left backward seat's basement before I'll go home, so that I can have 2 lines as you say. One snug to prevent her leaving to the right and a looser one to the foot rest to prevent her to go to the back.
The main difficulty will be to find a hook with quick release.

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Funny is how proud she is sitting there sticking the nose into the wind after only her second longer ride with a lot of interruptions. I am happy that she still love to run...and at good speed she ran beside the rig on sunday at least 3km (partially on steep hill upwards) .
On this I am a little disappointed with me myself, that I didn't come to that idea earlier. Close to the farm there is no way to hike with a dog, but with the rig you get out of the village into the greens and can get easily rid of the own belly too...Something I plan to do soon more often.
And I hope to let it not only with words, but get me in deed moving as before I came to Costa Rica.

Best regards
Sven Peter


 
Posted : June 23, 2008 2:01 pm
(@Hack__n)
Posts: 4720
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A small Carabiner works well for a snaphook that fits easily into an eye or harness D ring.

Lonnie


 
Posted : June 23, 2008 3:41 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

There are probably a million ways to make a harness set up for a hack dog. Here is just one and a few of my thoughts on it.

1. I agree that a harness is the best option, as the g-force in a wreck is gonna' put a lot of forceful stress on a dog's neck for sure. However, to assume any tether device/anchoring device or dog securing device will actually do much in a wreck is pure speculation, at best. It all depends on the nature of the wreck, itself. It is probably more of a "Feel Good" modification than anything else, but it serves a few different or useful functions; it works to keep the dog in the hack when you are parked, it gives the dog knowledge of just how far he/she can go and how much freedom of movement he/she actually has, and it works well in training the dog for hack riding in general. In an actual wreck, all bets are off though. Again, too many variables to speculate on and it depends upon the nature of the wreck.

2. I went to Tractor Supply Company (TSC) and went to the horse section to find what I needed to make a good working teather for my hack dogs. I found a bucket strap and a trigger snap to make up my teather device. The bucket strap came in various sizes, but I believe this one was maybe 18-22" in length. The bucket strap has a snap hook on the one end and a loop sewn onto the opposite end. I simply put on the trigger snap backwards at the loop and routed the bucket strap between the side of the hack and the side of the hack seat. The end of the trigger snap had a D-ring on it. I placed it onto my shock tower, but I could have anchored it to the trunk bed just as easily. If your rig isn't set up with shocks like my Ural Troyka, then I'd suggest bolting through the floor and use of some good sized fender washers and stong bolts. I then placed a larger-sized washer over the D-ring and then used a nylock nut to cinch it all down into place. The g-force of the tether strap is straight forward when the device is stretched or pulled outward. I also put in a second bucket strap on the opposite side, as I generally ride with two dogs. I also have a standard large dog leash that is also just looped about the seatback, so I can actually ride with all three of my dogs when I want. It is anchored to the back of the seat and simply loops about the seat in the front. As I said, there is likely a million ways to install a teather and then anchor it to the hack in some manner, but this was what I did and it has worked well for me. The bucket strap does not have too much length so that the dogs try to bolt.

3. I have never had the dogs attempt to go over the door exit in the hack, so I don't agree that any mesh, net or door needs to be included as a precaution. A good sized dog could easily hop right over anything that obstructed his way in the first place. The size of the strap works as a deterant in keeping him/her inside the hack.

4. Here are some photos and I hope they show what I am talking about in making a device to hold the dogs securely. It is very easy to hook them up and to unhook them as well. This is maybe more work to manufacture than you would like to put out, but it seemed simple to me and was worth the effort. After about 2 years of daily use, I have no problems to report. My Bichon will run out and sit in the hack in my garage for quite a while in waiting for me to come hook him up and ride. He is a hoot. He learned how to climb in on his own. I don't allow any of the pooches to dismount on their own though. My step plate is just too high. My Lasa Poo did that once and fell directly onto her shoulder. She yelped and cried as if she had broken something and it was very upsetting to me. Luckily she wasn't hurt badly, but I don't allow any of the pooches to get out on their own after that. That first step is a killer when they are exicted.

5. Not all dogs do well with Doggles. Mine don't at all, even though we go through the process all the time. However, Doggles has a brand new product that is soft mesh goggles. I have one on order and will use it with my Lasa, who has neve

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Posted : June 23, 2008 11:44 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Here is a small photo of the mesh goggles offered at Doggles. Like say, they may or may not work better than the standard Doggles. I am ordering a pair to see if the dogs like them or not. Reasonable price on them.
Here are the girls, Baby and Bosco. I couldn't find a pic of all three of them, but they all find their place when riding.
Huey

Attached files


 
Posted : June 24, 2008 12:24 am
(@Anonymous)
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I use chest harnesses, and a rope attached to the inside front of my SC. this allows my 2 pooches to go down inside the tub if the want to.
the 2 ropes, with snap releases are just long enough to allow the dogs to stand up on the seat,and lean over the side,,into the wind. the lerned to take turns,m if course.
previously I used regular neck collars, but, as someone else mentioned, on of the dogs got flung overboard on a surprise quick lefty. and was hanging by his neck...not good at all!!
He survived with bruises , and the harnesses were the next thing I bought. they attach underneath, at the chest area. this keeps them down in the SC. cant go over the side anymore, but able to move around in it.
the rope leashes can be seen laying on the SC floor.

http://tinyurl.com/259hn2


 
Posted : June 24, 2008 6:21 am
(@peter-pan)
Posts: 2042
Noble Member
Topic starter
 

Thank you friends for the advice.
Pat, that kind of hook I had years ago and worked well with (a damn difficult to handle) San Bernadine (while my own one was a sweaty), I haven't seen the type for years but with some luck I'll get it again.
The harness is on its way and should arrive thursday. So the next weekend trip is sure. The net might be more disturbing then anything else. I'll see how she does with the harness.
The foam I hopefully find in the neighbourhood.
Regards
Sven Peter


 
Posted : June 24, 2008 8:03 am
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

I aways thought it would be interesting to make a convertible top for my Ural out of mesh or netting. Of course, I have long since sold off my sewing machine and Lincoln welder, so it is more a pipe dream than a reality, but it is fun to wonder just how it could be done. With such a net or mesh, it could allow the dogs total freedom in the hack if a door was made and clear plastic windows added. Ahhhhh, to dream..... πŸ™‚


 
Posted : June 25, 2008 3:45 am
(@Anonymous)
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Check out this thread, I think Al-58 has made something similar
http://www.sidecar.com/megabbs/thread-view.asp?threadid=4348&posts=27


 
Posted : June 25, 2008 4:27 am
(@Anonymous)
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I put a harness on my 100 pound shepherd and tether it at rear and front of chest using two equestrian style quick release leads.
He did not like wearing Doggles at all but does tolerate goggles with wide leather borders very well. Just added a second strap to go under his chin similar to Doggles. Also put Mutt Muff hearing protection which also keeps the wind out of his ears. He seems to have quit vigerously shaking his head loosing the goggles anymore.
He will do a 200 mile trip without any fuss.
Roy


 
Posted : June 25, 2008 11:27 am
(@peter-pan)
Posts: 2042
Noble Member
Topic starter
 

I still have wind shield and rain cover collecting dust in the shop, but I am the one who desn't support them. They take away the possibility to monkey and slow down the bike a lot. And the wind shield would be scratched in a second.
Thanks a lot for your advices, wait for the next weekend...
Sven Peter


 
Posted : June 25, 2008 12:15 pm
(@Anonymous)
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I relocated the windshield to the very front of the sidecar to make room for the dogs big head. He still prefers to stick his head around the side of the windshield most of the time. Only when he gets tired and I see his eyes closing do I see him rest his head on the area directly behind the windshield. But the windshield helps him out if we hit some rain. Otherwise he reacts almost violently at the rain drops strike his nose.

Roy


 
Posted : June 27, 2008 3:25 am