I have a 1992 BMW R100RT (single rear shock model) and I'm trying to connect a Velorex 562 to it (my first sidecar project). I bought a subframe from Dauntless. When I push the curved bar on the front of the sidecar frame as far in as it will go, the sidecar frame is about 18" from the bike frame, and the rest of the mounting struts barely reach or don't reach at all. Is anybody aware of different mounting hardware for the bottom front instead of the Velorex curved bar so I can get the sidecar closer to the bike?
Bill
Take the J-bar to a reputable welding or machine shop and have it cut, shortened, gusseted and rewelded. You can pick up about 6" which will be about the right frame spacing from bike to sidecar.
Lonnie
I was afraid somebody was going to say that. I can do the cutting and welding and modify the J-bar. It looks like I might also be able to just machine a "bushing" that will go straight into the sidecar frame clamp with internal threads for the bolt on the adjusting strut. I wouldn't have any "up and down" adjustment capability if I did that, though.
Bill
What is the track width with the stock j bar in place. The 562 is pretty light. You may end up liking the added width for stability.
Lengthening the struts isn't hard. Just a thought.
The track width right now is 54 inches. Seems like a lot of space between the bike and the sidecar, but this is my first rig, so what do I know?
twobearbill - 5/5/2010 5:13 PM
The track width right now is 54 inches. Seems like a lot of space between the bike and the sidecar, but this is my first rig, so what do I know?
Track width on my rig is ~46 inches (Lowell Neff subframe) - I have been told that's pretty narrow... works good for me (set up by an experienced sidecarist and airhead enthusiast). I did not laydown any straight edges - just eyeballed a tape measure for comparison...
My rig was setup for ~60% off-road/40% pavement if I recall correctly ("jeep" roads and Forest Service stuff). My hack is probably ~100 pounds heavier that what you're setting up though.
Did you call Dauntless and talk w/Jay or one of his guys yet?
Yes, I've been Talking with Jay at Dauntless because the rear subframe piece is still on it's way. I've also been talking with the Velorex people. I'm going to take the J-bar off and see if I can make a different part to take it's place. I'm not going to do too much until the rear subframe piece gets here.
Thanks for the replies.
Bill
'92 R100RT w/ Velorex 562 some day
Mena, AR
twobearbill - 5/5/2010 7:13 PM
The track width right now is 54 inches. Seems like a lot of space between the bike and the sidecar, but this is my first rig, so what do I know?
We usually go for 48" and up(Center of bike tire to center of sidecar tire). Some are quite a bit wider.
How do you typically lengthen the struts - cut and weld in a piece?
My R90/6 with a 562 has a track width of about 50.5" using stock a Dauntless subframe (looks a bit wide to me, but I only have some dial in runs on it and no long term riding). Are the mono-shocker mounts that different? Can't really think of how the rear is set up on the later airheads.
The rear subframe piece Dauntless originally sent was for the wrong model, so I'm waiting on the correct one. It will have a mount point that uses the top shock mount, which is right about the middle of the toolbox. I'm not sure where the bottom rear mounting point will be, but I assume it will be pretty much in line with the top one. One of my concerns is that this will put the mounting points only 24" apart (front to back) on the bike. That's going to put the struts awful close together on the sidecar frame if the two top ones are angled like the Velorex instructions say to put them.
To lengthen the struts I cut near the lower end add a proper length of tube the strut ends will slip into an inch or so and ring weld the joints. This method also helps eliminate a long exposed portion of threaded clevis rod.
The triangulated placing of the struts on the bike are an ideal. As a lot of the text in the Velorex Handbook it cannot always be achieved. Nor can the 8" to 10" of wheel lead mentioned. About 15% of the bikes wheelbase would be more accurate of a figure to try to axhieve.
An overhead view of the Yamaha used in the illustrations would show that both upper struts were more or less parallel and facing toward the front of the bike. The lower sidecar mount is also assembled in an awkward position that encourages slippage.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
Hack'n - 5/6/2010 10:48 AM
To lengthen the struts I cut near the lower end add a proper length of tube the strut ends will slip into an inch or so and ring weld the joints. This method also helps eliminate a long exposed portion of threaded clevis rod.
The triangulated placing of the struts on the bike are an ideal. As a lot of the text in the Velorex Handbook it cannot always be achieved. Nor can the 8" to 10" of wheel lead mentioned. About 15% of the bikes wheelbase would be more accurate of a figure to try to axhieve.
An overhead view of the Yamaha used in the illustrations would show that both upper struts were more or less parallel and facing toward the front of the bike. The lower sidecar mount is also assembled in an awkward position that encourages slippage.Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
We lengthen struts about the same way but usually do a plug weld also.
If struts can be made to angle in or away from one another to create a triangle when viewed from the side it is best. Sometimes this may not be possible in which case movement may take place. If this does occur and strut locations are pretty much set due to whatever you can always run a brace from one strut to the other or a brace from a strut down to the sidecar frame.
Note that The pinch block that clamps around the sidecar frame is notorious for slippage. Many weld them or pin them in place once adjusted. We usually just replace them.
I do appreciate all the assistance and suggestions.
I thought about having a new piece fabricated, then decided to do it myself. What the heck, the worst that could happen is have to buy a new J-Bar. I cut the sleeve off that the clevis bolt goes through, then welded it to the J-Bar tube near where it goes into the sidecar frame. I then cut the curved portion of the J-Bar off. This allowed the sidecar to move forward about 4 inches, so now I have 10" offset between the bike rear wheel and sidecar wheel. This also moved the sidecar closer to the bike, so the wheel track width is now about 49 inches. But the best benefit is that all the struts now reach the bike! As soon as my rear subframe piece gets here, I'll be ready to start fine tuning. I posted photos to an album on this site if anyone is interested.
