
Hack'n - 4/5/2015 1:19 PM
I replaced my neighbor's safety stop (conduit) tube with a 3/4" solid cold rolled steel bar.Lonnie
Must have been a newer model, mine is ten years old, came with a solid steel safety bar. The hydraulic pump needs an oil top off every couple of years though.
A lift is one of the best tools one can buy when working on used bikes. That and a metric tap-n-die set.
Is that the quick disconnect sold on ebay?

IndSlim - 4/6/2015 12:03 PM
Is that the quick disconnect sold on ebay?
The brake line coupler was supplied by DMC as part of the rig set up. Not sure if they sell those online or not, but am sure DMC can sell you one.

Congratulations Jan,
and thank you very much for the detailed insight you permit us.
Tell me please, how stiff do you see the whole set up and subframe?
You know Centralamerican roads are TOUGH and mountain range even much worse.
Do You think that your KLR-rig will become maniac-prove?
When I had after only 2000 something km my tail lifting 6" I got so big doubts about the solidness of the KLR that I now have the KLR as dedicated solo and got me a Ural as replacement for the Jawa.
(I still see the Street Jawa (with another replacement motor) as better mountain goat then the Ural)
Best regards and good luck.
Sven

Peter Pan - 4/6/2015 6:49 PM
Tell me please, how stiff do you see the whole set up and subframe?
You know Centralamerican roads are TOUGH and mountain range even much worse.
Do You think that your KLR-rig will become maniac-prove?
Sven
Sven, thanks for the questions.
My initial impression is that it is very well designed and built. Particularly the front upper strut. That strut is anchored in three separate locations, giving it structural rigidity. My impression is that the front upper strut and the two lower mounts take the majority of the sidecar related stresses, so those should be the strongest links.
The undercarriage comes as two halves, a left and a right. It is mounted to the bike with six bolts, plus four more that bolt the two sides together. The skid plate also links the two halves but doubt it adds much rigidity. The rear upper mount clamps to the rear subframe, which has been reinforced with an Eagle Mike subframe kit.
This is not a Dakar race rig, but see no reason why you couldn't go around the world with it.
Since I don't carry a passenger, the sidecar load will consist of spare fuel, water, camping gear, tools, parts, and personal gear. Less weight than if I had a passenger.
Once it is assembled and test ridden, am sure there will be some adjustments.
Questions about why something was done a particular way are welcome. If you think of a better way to do something or spot a potential flaw, please post up.
Thanks
CCjon

Thank you very much Jan...I am looking forward to meet you on the road soon. and continue lurking with a lot of interest.
Sven

The time has come for the KLR and the sidecar chassis to be joined for evermore. The last few items needed have arrived, so a quick call to my friend/neighbor Gary was in order. Since this was the first time for either of us to install a sidecar, we read the instructions, reread them then watched a youtube video on how to do it.
Of course it helps to have a big hammer on hand. If that doesn't work, the Russians say you need a bigger hammer.
It is critical that the sidecar be level, so we did our best to accomplish that. Two other critical factors are of course Lean-out and Toe-in.
Three hours later, we finally had it attached and level. Bolts are tight, but not wrenched!!! for now.
Of course what do you do with a new toy???? Well.................. ride it.
You experienced sidecarist will cringe at this photo. That empty, light frame will "FLY' with the slightest input..... and it did. This was a quick ride down the street and back to see if the settings were close or needed more adjustment. Everything was GOOD! No further adjustments for now. Wow, first timers, first time and we are very close to a final set-up. The temporary blue tape is holding wires, etc out of the way while we were assembling the parts.

Now to add some weight to the sidecar. The used truck tool box I picked up is a double lid, aluminum box that we then modified by adding rubber latches to make sure the wind did not catch a lid and flip it up. Second we added hasps for locking and securing the lids after we removed the factory latches. This will keep my camping and personal gear safe and dry.
Because the bottom of the aluminum box is not very rigid and not wide enough to cover all of the sidecar frame, decided to cut out a 3/4" plywood base for the sidecar then mount the box and auxiliary gas cans on top of that. With the plywood down, we then positioned the box and base fore and aft. Did not want the box to be further back than our rear taillight. The front edge of the box is in line with the front axle.
Lined up the rear fender with the tool box... The front edge of the box lines up with the front axle on the KLR.
Next was to cut the plywood, trim it, stain it and attach everything. Added metal edging to the front and rear edges of the plywood for weather protection. The box and base were then bolted to the chassis.
Between the bottom of the plywood and the ground is 12 inches. That is the ground clearance I was looking for and could not find on any already set-up adventure sidecar rig. The ground clearance under the KLR is 7 1/2 inches. Am pleased with the high ground clearance and a low profile front of the sidecar. Will offer less wind resistance. It rolls very easy. Much easier than the Ural did.
Made a box frame to hold in the two NATO gas cans, 2.5 gallons each. That will give me a total of 11-12+ gallons of gas. Will add a bicycle cable lock besides the bungee cord to keep the two gas cans. safely on board. There are several nooks and crannies where more things can be mounted to the sidecar floor. Any suggestions?
Like most complicated projects, some unforeseen developments arise. For one, the used Pelican panniers that I bought from another KLR rider fit on perfectly. The right pannier can be mounted and removed easily. However with the sidecar cargo box in place, the right pannier cannot open. If it were a top opening box, would be okay, but a side opening box is not going to work. The tool box opens fine, but the pannier cannot fully open.
Now the decision is, do I ride with just the left pannier, use the right pannier knowing I can only access the contents if I remove it from the bike everytime or sell this set up and find a complete pannier set up of top load boxes? Do I even need panniers with the big tool box?
Of course there are more, MANY more things yet to be done before this rig is ready for long distance travel. Today was a major step in moving this project forward.
Thanks for following along with this build.
CCjon

Sure looking fwd to seeing this rig in action at the Muster. As for the right side Pelican case, maybe use it for spare tubes/parts and such that you might only need to access a couple times --or less-- on the journey?
Lee
MB5+TW200+CRF250L+GTV300+INT650
XL883R w/Texas Ranger Sidecar
Zuma 50F + Burgman w/Texas Sidecar<Mrs. SwampFox

Hello Jan,
Is the box already in a fix position? How about to move it outwards closer to the fender?
My proposal is to change the position of the gasoline tanks and the right luggage box = swap them.
Several close calls I had were about to hit right where you have now the gas cans...and you want as little weight as possible in the nose...remember the left turns are more dangerous then the right turns.
Plus you can use the luggage box for clothes as easy take off/on option. A key and done, ready for a shower in the evening or the road in the morning.
For my last few set ups I did measure the bike's shock length under load and then tied it for the set up with a ratchet type cloth belt lugguage spanner to the loaded length I nailed/wrote down in the maintenance log book.(some future help including for to check shocks.
Specially this method was helpfull for the set up when I changed the engine in the Jawa against a Husquarna...I had reliable measurements as reference for to locate the engine in such way, the back sprocket swing pivot and front sprocket line up in one straight line under typical load...
(side note: last week I saw an ugly engine change that broke off the back sprocket base plate out off the wheel base due to the tension hits___in 6 month)
I see the KLR with a very soft suspension. out of my MZ and Jawa comparing experience I do suggest you for the KLR a sway bar tensioner... The MZ with its "Superelastic" sidecar became unrideable in the occasion I disconnected its tension bars swing couplings... That aspect might have been taken care of by the strong center shock you installed.
Best luck
Sven

SwampFox - 4/16/2015 7:09 AM
Sure looking fwd to seeing this rig in action at the Muster. As for the right side Pelican case, maybe use it for spare tubes/parts and such that you might only need to access a couple times --or less-- on the journey?
Thank you Lee.
Not sure I'll make the muster now. The powers that be informed me a grandson's birthday party is the 2nd and grandpa is expected to be there....smiling.

Peter Pan - 4/16/2015 8:01 AM
I see the KLR with a very soft suspension. out of my MZ and Jawa comparing experience I do suggest you for the KLR a sway bar tensioner... The MZ with its "Superelastic" sidecar became unrideable in the occasion I disconnected its tension bars swing couplings... That aspect might have been taken care of by the strong center shock you installed
Sven,
The box is in a fixed position now. Thought about moving it outward, but then the gas cans would be crowding my foot and leg. Rode several thousand KMs on the Ural with two gas cans in the same position, no problems. If there is a problem, I want those cans far away from me.
You are right, a stronger rear spring was added to the shock. I also installed raising links (longer dog bones to lift the rear end) in order to accomplish two things: one, it stiffens the rear shock even more, plus it reduces steering effort by changing the rake on the front. Accomplishes the same as going with a smaller diameter front wheel. With my 250 lbs on the bike, the rear shock barely moves. It is stiff.

CCjon - 4/16/2015 3:01 PM
... grandson's birthday party is the 2nd and grandpa is expected to be there....smiling.
We understand such things ... but prefer the concept of camping with grandpa like a couple of years ago. 🙂
Please try to come join us for lunch 11am Friday May 1st at the Trails End Diner in Huxley - might be a little long for a 1-day round trip on the new KLR outfit, but it's just a stretch of the legs for Da'mu.
Lee
MB5+TW200+CRF250L+GTV300+INT650
XL883R w/Texas Ranger Sidecar
Zuma 50F + Burgman w/Texas Sidecar<Mrs. SwampFox

Hello Jan,
you killed 2 flies with one strike... decent shock and less trail...well done.
With the gas can it is up to everybody himself, I see it in mine that the 10liter 2 1/2 gal fit, but 20l-5 gal or 2 of the small ones would become very tight.
And now: "How do you recognize a happy biker?"
-
"When the flies in between the teeth are smiling!"
Get out of the workshop . Its time to check if everything you passed from the brain to reality, if it really does fulfil what you expected.
Enjoy the ride with the little one
Grinn,,,bssssttt
Sven

Meet Damit 2.0, the new adventure rig. Finally got out of the garage and put a little grass between her toes.
The rig is ready to ride but not quite ready for serious adventure. Still have a few farkles to decide on and install.
Thanks for following along with this "Lets put a rig together" thread.
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