I don't know where the speedo is driven from on my 07 Fatboy. I guess off the front sprocket like some other bikes. Changing the rear sprocket should't effect the speedo.
Originally written by quack947 on 6/27/2007 3:07 PM
I don't know where the speedo is driven from on my 07 Fatboy. I guess off the front sprocket like some other bikes. Changing the rear sprocket should't effect the speedo.
The speedometer is driven by the speed sensor which is in the right rear top of the tansmission. It reads pulses from a magnet inside the transmisison. Therefore, changing the rear belt ratio will change the speedometer reading. This is bad Ju Ju.
You can take it in and have the HD tech recalibrate the speedo, so they say, I have never done this.
KC
Originally written by Bluecedar on 6/28/2007 3:45 PM
You can take it in and have the HD tech recalibrate the speedo, so they say, I have never done this.
KC
Good luck on getting that one right. Sounds terribly expensive at $90 per hour.
You can also use a GPS unit for the speedo. I have a BMWLT that the speedo is 10 miles slow at 70, I use the gps for a more accurate reading. Also BMW says this is for our own proctection. It looks like your going faster so you want get a ticket. Also this is within their specs. since they want fix it under warranty.
I notice in the parts catalogue that up to the '03 models you could get a high load drive belt Part No. 40130-03- which would seem sensible as you are putting more strain on that part ( and other parts as well)
Was it ever fitted as standard? You would think it would have been.
The standard belt on the '07 models looks so small- no High load belt is listed for these and there is more power on hand.
Paul
Originally written by sidecarbrit on 7/30/2007 1:16 PM
I notice in the parts catalogue that up to the '03 models you could get a high load drive belt Part No. 40130-03- which would seem sensible as you are putting more strain on that part ( and other parts as well)
Was it ever fitted as standard? You would think it would have been.
The standard belt on the '07 models looks so small- no High load belt is listed for these and there is more power on hand.
Paul
In 2004 HDMOCO changed the rear swing arm and pulley width to accomodate the larger 150mm rear tire. At that time, they started using a narrower belt that, I am informed, is stronger than the previous larger pre-2004 belt. It is P/N 40024-04 with 139 teeth.
The 40130-03 "High Duty" belt wasn't a great seller at $239.00 plus 6-8 hours labor for a changeout. AFAIK, it was never fitted as standard but is still advvertised for 1997-2003 FL's as an accessory for sidecar use.
With proper care, I realy doubt that you will have any trouble with your rear belt. It's best to stay away from gravel and dirt roads however, since a stone can damage the belt severely.
Oh, yeah, don't do any burnouts, either. Ha.
actually the ultras, classics, and kings come with the high load
only the road glides did not
who knows why
later
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High Load Drive Belt
This high strength belt is manufactured to improve belt life due to the heavy duty loads required by the addition of a sidecar to the motorcycle.
40130-03
Fits all '97-'03 FLT models
Well as I said before the Belt looks very much on the Light weight side considering it was bought from HD as a complete Rig- and the bike is an Ultra Classic.
So How did I get the rig - 6ft 4ins into a 6ft garage door - easy - Picture enclosed!
Paul
Originally written by sidecarbrit on 8/18/2007 12:46 PM
Well as I said before the Belt looks very much on the Light weight side considering it was bought from HD as a complete Rig- and the bike is an Ultra Classic.
So How did I get the rig - 6ft 4ins into a 6ft garage door - easy - Picture enclosed!Paul
Although the 2003 and later belt is somewhat narrower than prior belts, it is made from stronger stuff. They seldom fail in actual use and, if you have a steady hand on the throttle, you won't put any more strain on it than a solo bike.
I'm not really concerned about mine. Kits are available in the aftermarket to convert a belt drive HD to chain drive. The down side is that chains are a bit on the messy side snd a little noiser than a belt. That could put your mind at ease, I guess. If you were to change to chain drive, you could easily gear the machine any way you want without modifying the primary ratios. I estimate about $350 for parts with two sprockets and a #530 O-ring chain if you do your own work. (I do)
BTW, don't you mean a six-foot wide biue and a six-foot four garage door?
Looks good.
No the Garage door opening is 6ft and the Rig is 6ft 4ins- just needs a bit of manouvering!
Does anyone else get an engine surge when you are decelerating- you are using engine braking to slow down and as the engine revs get less- suddenly it speeds up and then slows up again- a bit unsettling.
id consider going to chain drive [the new chains last way way longer than chains in the 70's did] if it would allow me to get a 180 tire in there - im running a 15" car tire & it works great but id much rather run radial motorcycle tires - 130/r18 front and 170/r17 rear now that touring radial motorcycle tires are availible.
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Originally written by timo482 on 9/20/2007 6:42 AM
id consider going to chain drive [the new chains last way way longer than chains in the 70's did] if it would allow me to get a 180 tire in there - im running a 15" car tire & it works great but id much rather run radial motorcycle tires - 130/r18 front and 170/r17 rear now that touring radial motorcycle tires are availible.
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A chain drive would be a good change for a sidecar. A nice #530 O-ring chain would do nicely. The aftermarket suppliers have kits for the Electra-Glides. It's a lot of work, however, although you would get some piece of mind and it would be fun to ride on gravel roads again. I stay off of gravel with a belt drive. I've seen what happens to a belt when it gets a piece of gravel or rock in the path of the belt.
A chain drive would likely permit a larger tire. My 2004 has a 150 tire and I doubt I could squeeze much more in. The A/M suppliers also have kits for wider tires using belts but it takes a major re-work.
when the current tire wears out im going to look into either a chain drive kit or a wide tire kit. the biggest problem with the 15" wheel is the brake caliper - its a act of congress to get the wheel in or out. i have to first remove the pads, put the bolts back in and then work it out and its a hard fit then. just sucks. and to make it worse i have a parking brake as well - two calipers to work off the rotor with nearly no clearance.
the tire and wheel work really well however. handling is wonderfull.
still a larger tire 16" or 17" dia, radial, touring motorcycle tire,
of course with the new se roadkings runing radial tires.... eventually i think we will see ultras with radials.
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