Thanks! I’ll re-torque after a few miles.
Next is the rear bracket, 87114-93A replacing the right passenger footboard bracket. It bolts in place fine, as shown in picture. The problem is that the triangular brace welded to the rear of the exhaust pipe will interfere, so exhaust will not slip back in place. Anyone have an idea what needs to happen here? The exhaust is stock. My understanding from Harley documents is that these parts should all work together.
Ok, been a while, but I came to the conclusion that the 87114-93A rear mount that I had will not work for my 97. That's goofy because Harley always says to use the updated part, in this case the A on the end indicates an update from the earlier 87114-93 part #.
It took a while, but I was finally able to track down the 87114-93 locally. (I thought I was going to have to order one from Germany.)
Here are the two parts 87114-93 on left, 87114-93A on the right. Quite a bit different for a simple "A" revision.
This will be the first picture I've seen comparing them on the internet, so hopefully it helps someone in the future. They both bolt up to my bike, but the -93A interferes with my stock exhaust. This may not be a problem for 99 up, but for stock 97-98 FLT it is.
Also found the elusive 97-98 only front lower mount. Had to get that one from the Netherlands...Thank goodness for the internet.
Now I can bolt every down and get the bike back together. Progress!
All bike side work completed. All lights functional. I had to make several electrical harnesses, here's the one that adapts to the existing bike harness to break out the turn lamp, park and tail lamps, and the brake lamp. These things are obsolete from the motor company, and thin to non-existent on the ground, so DIY...
Nice work on the harnesses. Using break-out harnesses is a beautiful thing. 🤩
Hold my keyboard and watch this! 🙃
Nice work on the harnesses. Using break-out harnesses is a beautiful thing. 🤩
Thanks! Not my best work, but it's not bad. I experimented using cable ferrules on all the wire ends... overkill for these connector pins, but were helpful on a couple wires I needed to double up on.
I found that my wheel would stop spinning freely when the axle castle nut was properly torqued, so I unpacked the bearing stack. These cast aluminum Harley wheels use two Timken bearings. The smaller outer bearing looked like it was packed in mud ☹️. The larger inner bearing looked good. Using a drift I tapped the steel bearing cup (race) out, to replace the bearing as a unit. Made a couple of nicks in the aluminum that I'll need to dremel down before pressing in the new race. I don't like these aluminum bores... Maybe i should use a little anti-seize to lubricate? On other applications (steel on steel) I pop the race in the freezer to get a bit of shrinkage to make the insert.
You can see one of the divots at the bottom of the bore that I need to smooth.
slight haze of anti-sieze would sure help with any future galling, corrosion, etc.. 👍
Hold my keyboard and watch this! 🙃
my sidecar looks a lot like yours. mounted on 01 road king. former DC metro PD
my sidecar looks a lot like yours. mounted on 01 road king. former DC metro PD
That's cool Randy. Your hack does look newer than mine. I see you've got the single leaf springs. Sits nice and low. That bracket up front, that the spot and turn lamp are mounted to is interesting!
Made this simple bracket for the lights. It bounces around a bit being mounted on the spring which makes even a little more noticeable to on coming traffic.
Thanks for the close-up!
Did you connect that spot lamp to the ones on the bike? I'll bet that looks like a real beast coming down the road at night 😀
I been thinking about mounting a spot lamp to the body up near the nose. One of those on a handle that can be positioned from the inside, like found on LEO cruiser. Give the monkey something to do... 😆
Yes all 3 spots are wired to come on high and low beam.
Got new bearings and seals today. Put the wheel assembly back together and test mounted. Torqued axle nut to spec and it behaved much better this time, but still doesn't freewheel as it should. Basically no end play, with .002-.006 required. When the local HD shop opens tomorrow, I'll pick up a variety of shims to finish the wheel up. I WAS getting a rock back and forth on the wheel when mounted, but that turned out to be the axle taper needed to be drawn together. 🙄 I doubt the previous owner ever had this on the road...
The wheel took .130 worth of shims! I ran out of shims and had to dig up something out of my washer box that had correct inner and outer diameters. Anyhow, got it nice and smooth @ 38ft-lbs on the axle nut, so I drove the last seal on and called the wheel done. Took it for a shakedown ride, and can now declare it Mrs. Monkey safe 😉 .
Next on the list, needs a windshield...
Windshield done. Mrs. lended a steady hand during the drilling 😀. This tub appeared to never have had a shield in the past. I think I should have installed the black foam tape to the inside of the shield rather than the sidecar tub... oh well...
Next is to add a step to get into this beast. The windshield slant seems to be a bit more aggressive and hinders entry, and the edge of the tub sits 2" higher than the 69 🤔, I could swear the whole rig is essentially the same...
I had been thinking of making a step like Harley would have sold for these later models. But another option has developed. I acquired a broken old Harley panhead sidecar step a while back. It is just like what I run on the shovelhead (69).
The tab that fastened to the fender was broken off. Doesn't affect my needs. The last two casting numbers on the bottom indicate Harley first made these in the year 1945 I believe. I guess these steps were used on Knuckleheads for a few years too.
