Handling Adjustments ?

The Dealership Service Dept called back with the recommendation that I tighten up the "Steering Dampener" to see if this is the "Cure", I'll try it if it stops raining over the weekend.
I don't know how this will change the "Soft" suspension feeling though.

It won't. It'll just add steering resistance.

L.

CAPT - 5/10/2013 10:30 AM
... The Rig seems to "Wottle" toward the left rear (Bike's Drive Tire) going straight down the country roads where I live. It feels like the suspension is "Soft" in the left rear. I have brought up the tire pressure to 37 psi, but it's still there. The stock shocks are adjustable but only in 2 positions and the owner's manual says the 2nd is for MAX WEIGHT USE, and if you bring the Bike's up, you are to bring the sidecars up at the same time.

SO..... Should I bring the shock adjustment to the MAX WEIGHT setting; Are there shocks with the old multi - adjust style available for Ural's, Add more tire pressure, Alignment issues?....

CAPT, I have no direct experience with Ural rigs, but, for what it's worth, one of the most disappointing rigs I've driven "wottled" down the road as a result of too soft suspension. Just about ANY steering input would squish the suspension, changing the left/right attitude of the rig causing minor changes in direction, resulting in almost continual steering input to "herd" the rig down the road. Handling improved a lot after increasing the pre-load adjustment all the way around.

I've never experience a rig with a constant left pull. Might could be cycle lean-out is too severe when loaded, perhaps again too soft suspension? I don't know, but is would seem 2-up would need increase spring pre-load. For example, I need to step-up my suspension with an adult passenger.

Hope this helps some.

Lee
MB5+TW200+CRF250L+GTV300+INT650
XL883R w/Texas Ranger Sidecar
Zuma 50F + Burgman w/Texas Sidecar<Mrs. SwampFox

 

Urals made since 08 come with better, multi-position shocks. You can try retrofitting these to your bike, but before doing that there are a few other things you can check first. If yours is a pre-08 model, check the swingarm bushings. They are made of rubber and can disintegrate over time (08 and up models have bearings instead of bushings).

If yours is 06 or earlier, check the adjustment of all the tapered wheel bearings; too loose of a setting can cause the wheel to "flop" from side to side and cause handling issues. Proper adjustment technique is to loosen the locking ring, tighten the bearing nut until snug, then back it off 1/8 turn and tighten the locking ring. If yours is 07 and up it has sealed wheel bearings, but many people make the mistake of adjusting them as above - however, the sealed wheel bearings actually must have the bearing nut tight up against the bearing and locked in place. If you have a 2WD model, there is a thrust washer that can wear out and cause excess side to side play in the sidecar wheel; grab the top of the wheel and shake it side to side, if there's movement then remove it and check the wheel bearing settings and the condition of the washer.

Unless you're carrying passengers all the time you can leave the sidecar shock setting on low. The bike's rear shocks should be on the high position (regardless if riding solo or with a passenger behind you) and the front can be on low or high, depending on what feels better for you. Tire pressures should be at 40psi rear, 36-38psi front and 36-38psi sidecar.

The most critical thing to check is the alignment. Urals are very easy to set up and align, but not all dealers are aware of how to do it. There should be 3/8" to 1/2" toe in and 1/8" leanout for normal use; heavier riders may require less leanout. Place a spirit level on the inside frame rail of the sidecar that is parallel to the bike, it should show that the sidecar has a "nose-up" attitude of around 1/2". Then check the sidecar wheel by placing the level in a vertical position against the rim, the wheel should be vertical.

Mike is spot on with his advice. I would add that if you are a bigger guy to set your lean out so it is 1/8-1/4 loaded. Also if it's a new bike it will dance around a bit until the tyres square off. The steering damper should be just snug enough to damp fork wobble. Too tight and the bike will weave.

I have owned and ridden ten sidecar rigs but am unfamiliar with the definition of, "Wottles".
You mentioned steering wiggles, which I understand to be something I have heard called, "head shake", But then you speak of wottles.
Please define what are wottles?

Thanks for all the input.....
By "Wottles" I mean it has this Left Rear (wear it seems to originate) to a Right Front "Hobble" on a straight country road.
I will check out the previous mentioned adjustment and report back !! Now I am Currently working 5-10's & a 8 on Saturday (Weather Pending)
So give me a chance to check these all out via the "Sceinitific Method" of one thing at a time.

Wottles - Are we talking 'crab walking' here?

If it is crabbing, the first thing I would check is if the bike frame is in alignment with itself and not damaged.
If that is okay then the sidecar is not correctly aligned and adjusted for lean out and toe in.
Are the wheels themselves running true?

No, I mean it rocks back and forth from the rear tire to the right nose of the side car.
It just seems that the rear coil over shocks are weak on the drive tire. This "spot" has a noticeable softer feel than the sidecar & front tire springs/suspension.
I haven't taken it out to work on yet, just checked for e-mails before calling it a night.
Again Thanks.

CAPT,

If you don't find an immediate solution, bring your bike to the Skunk's Rally, June 7-9 in Cameron, Wi [at the Pioneer Village Museum]. There will be lots of free advice and a few folks who might be able to actually fix it. ;^)

In fact, come even if you've got it fixed!

CAPT, for whatever it's worth, here are a couple of other things I've experienced:

1) I rode a rig with excessive toe-in where it seemed the sidecar would push/track into/towards the bike until the bike suspension reached a limit, then as the bike suspension settled it pushed the bike back towards the sidecar until the sidecar suspension reached a limit, and then repeat, repeat.... The whole rig kinda "oscillated" down the road, some speeds more so than others; and

2) The sidecar tire was slightly (an I mean just barely) out of round on Jena's Texas sidecar when we first mounted it. Took us a several hundred miles to figure that one.

I put together a Dnepr rig, MT11, from several pallets of parts back in 01. First ride was awfully un stable. It wagged, hopped, shook and generally tried to unsaddle me.
After 100 yards I turned around and went back to my shop. I found the wheels were not only out of true, they were out of round.
I went to work and built a wheel truing jig. All of the wheels were at least 3/8ths inch out of round and more than that side to side.
I also noticed that the extrusion that the rims were made of were welded at the point the ends met with a slight side to side misalignment.
I was able to true them so that they were no longer out of round but because of the misaligned welds, could not get them properly aligned for side toside true.
They all had about an eighth inch side to side.
If I rode on dirt roads or off road this was un noticeable but on pavement you could feel it.
Check wheel true, swingarm true, swingarm bearings, steering head bearings, forks frame alignment, sidecar alignment, leave out nothing that could possibly cause this motion.
Even a faulty tire could do it.

I had looked at the Skunk's Rally,
But it is the same weekend as our Town Festival (aka Town Drunk) and being on the Fire Dept. Attendance is almost MANDITORY, just incase we have to "Hose Down" any
Family Feuds if you catch my drift........