I am mounting a Velo 700 to a Moto Guzzi Convert and the lower front mount spot on frame is where the crash bars once bolted. this setup forces the car to ride nose tilted up. in other words the Velorex lower front U-bar mount doesn't allow the car to ride low enough. I have it level side to side. question is, does Velorex have a replacement for the curved tube that will have more arc thus lowering the front somewhat? it seems like the velo is made for a shorter hieght bike. other that smaller wheels on the bike are there other solutions? I have better pics not uploaded yet but heres one 
Hey Brad,
Have you talked to Lee Bruns (lunatic) yet...?
He is right out your way too in Watertown, SD... Ask him about the springs and spacers for the fork too.
Best,
Rob
Rob, yes we are haveing plenty of email discussions but its about 250 miles over there and I don't have it set up to make it even around the block yet and he's got a brand new baby at home.
I will make a couple spacers for the fork springs and a friend says he can make a fork brace, then I'll add a damper but I wanted to have set up good enough to drive it w/out the damper so I know its properly aligned.
Brad,
Does Lee give you any idea whether lowering the fork tubes, raising them in the trees would be the right thing to do...?
rd
Sliding the tubes up through the trees will reduce trail and lower the front end somewhat but be careful of interference with the front fender or anything else that might cause a clearance problem.
Lonnie
thats a good idea but the front of the sidecar needs to go down nearly 2", I don't think I can lower the forks that far.
heres a pic, if I could lower this front mount by 2" the car would be level all around.
I've lowered the front mount by welding a tube directly to the top of the J-bar tube. That gives you about 1".
Two flat straps and the proper size tube will get you as low as you want.
Look at a late URAL mount. The same idea works fine on the Velo.
Lonnie
cut the top part off that holds the threaded rod, and then cut off 2" from the upright part and reweld the top part back on...simple!
Here's something from Jay's website. Would this work for you?
Here's his part number. DMC-3COSET
Right idea but wrong size tubing, Mike.
The design is the same as a URAL OEM rear mount.
This method is more practical than cutting and extending the drop on the J-bar. Less chance of failure than a butt joint.
Lonnie
good ideas. I'll run them past my metalurgist and see what we can do, THANKS!
