Hello,
I am going to have a look at a Velorex from the late 80's and would like to know what to look for when inspecting this unit?
This will be my first sidecar, so I am not very familiar with them. Have good all round mechanical knowledge....
Thanks,
John
78KZ - 2/5/2011 6:10 AM
Hello,
I am going to have a look at a Velorex from the late 80's and would like to know what to look for when inspecting this unit?
This will be my first sidecar, so I am not very familiar with them. Have good all round mechanical knowledge....
Thanks,
John
The older velorex uses a 15 mm axle which I consider too wimpy for safety. They do too since thay offer a kit that will upgrade it to a 20mm axle.
Also check the swing arm pivot point. On mine I had to shim the outside of the bearing race to eliminate a wobble.
This was done by pulling the pivot shaft part way out and putting a .001 shim around the outer race of the bearing and press it back in. If needed, do it when you install the upgraded axle kit.
The 15mm axle was probably okay with the 350cc two stroke Jawa that the older velorexs were designed for but heavier faster motorcycles may cause this to fail.
I machined my own 20mm axle and installed bearings in the wheel to match. Then there was the problem of milling the brake backing plate to fit.
All in all the factory kit is better.
The earlier Velerox 562's came in two models. The 562 Standard which had a fully finished (rounded) cockpit surround and dash with a small steel handgrip. This model also had a plusher fully padded seat. The 562E (Euro/Economy) model had a large ribbed rubber coated handgrip that arched over the front of the cockpit that also served tor einforce the upper body section. This model also had a flange mounted windshield, flange mounted ribbed rubber cockpit surround moulding and a rolled pleated seat back (many had a red insert in the seat back). Both weighed about 154#.
Both models shared the same chassis but the 562E sold for $200. less. Due to the large handgrip tube the 562E is harder to get in and out of with less knee room.
The pre late 2004 models all had the 15mm axle and very soft suspension since they were designed for the 350CC & 500CC Jawas and CZs that weighed in the 300#+ range. 2005 and later suspension has 20mm axle and redesigned swingarm for heavier cruiser bikes but to use these parts you have to also change the backer & wheel to match.
The stock 562 (15mm) suspension cars have been used for years on almost every bike around. I personally know of 2 axle problems, both early GL rigs and caused by curbing the outfits at speed. We don't recommend the 562 for any touring bike or heavy cruiser even with supgraded suspension. They're too light.
The early 562s will support a small lbike or a lightweight middle displacement one but a larger cruiser or a smaller bike that's driven agressively will bottom out and wallow in the turns making for an unsafe combo unless the suspension is upgraded.
We use our own bolt on swingarm kit with a 1" axle and modular wheel for heavy loading or dual sport usage with the 562s.
The light weight of the 562 (without a passenger) usually requires quite a bit of ballast to achieve a good bike/sidecar weight ratio.
A 2/3rds bike weight to 1/3rd sidecar weight will keep three wheels on the ground under normal driving conditions.
If you need to use the convertible top the stock height OEM windshield (cost $168. US) will have to be retained or it won't fit correctly.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
Hello,
Thank you for taking the time to post your information. I am going to attach the sidecar to my 1978 KZ650. It weighs +/- 375lbs.
I have a ten and twelve year old daughters and as we live on the Quebec/Vermont border we would love to ride the back roads. I weigh 170lbs, two girls weigh 90lbs each.
If the sidecar works out and everybody likes it, I will upgrade the axle.
Good to know about the difference in the standard and the European/economy models.
John
As a newer sidecar enthusiast I've purchased two Velorexes (Velorexi?) during the past 3 years.
The first was a 1974 560 and the most recent was a 1999 562.
Lonnie has done a great lob of defining the models and features and knows his stuff.
As a buyer you need to concentrate on how complete the sidecar is, each strut will cost you $100 for complete bike to tug setup if you include the proper hardware.
Even if you dont plan on using any of the "universal mounting clamps" the eye bolts can be used on the subframe or subframe assemblies.
The Velorex tubs are a bit "flexy" for my taste. Some of the thinnist fibreglass I've seen. Not at all like a boat.
I've added layers of matt to the inside to thicken and stiffen it up a bit.
The 562 is half glass (top) and some sort of cheesy european thermoplastic on the bottom.
If the have been exposed to the elements they may have cracks in them as they become quite brittle.
I looked at a few 562s that had fractures on the bottom and complete pieces missing. I have a preference for tubs that can hold water...
Even with the reinforced glass I've built a rectangular frame out of 1"x2" tubing that fits inside the tub on the floor that the seat, grabbar and battery electrics behind the seat fit up to.
This adds a little weight and sandwiches the tub securely to the sidecar chassis. Much reduced flexy action.
Spin the wheel, check everything for square.
Set it up level on blocks, stand back far enough to get the "big" picture.
Good luck and take your time. Lots of thought go into a good build. If you slap it together it will probably slap you back!
Don in Nipomo
