Outstanding. A man of many talents.
I think Vernon and Lonnie got it about right...heck ya need a little toe in and a little lean out..try it and if it pulls change the lean out and if it grinds tires off take some toe in out of it.
Use anything that is straight to get your initial measurments(angle iron, square tubing , 2x4's (if not straight drive a nail near each end and stretch a string between the nails), a string run over two concrete blocks or whatever).
If you get good accurate measuements the main advatage is that you will have a record of where you is so's you can git back there from where you end up in case you get it all off :-).
Much has been written on thsi in an attempt to make it sound really technical but in reaility there is no real rocket science involved.
Good idea with the 2x4's with a nail in each to string it...
I'll go out and do this tonight... I love turning wrenches... 🙂
The car is just not set up correctly and I am excited about being able to go through a left hand turn without giving it all I've got to get through it...
If you stand back and look at the rig the m/c leans IN... No wonder it wants to go right... Haven't even checked the toe in yet.
back at ya later..
Thanks all,
Rob
disconnect the 2 upper mounts before you set toe-in. usually about 1/4" narrower at the front. all depends on the bike.
after toe-in is set, then lean the bike out so it is a little to the
left past upright, [looking from rear] in lean and try it.
from there trial and error...keep adjusting and driving till it tracks straight at the speed you usually travel, with the load in the
sidecar you usually carry.
Rob
I just checked my set up last week. For a straight edge, I use two lengths of roofing drip edge, "D style drip edge", from the lumber store. Straight, cheap, and easy to find. Many options out there for a straight edge.
I set mine up at 1.25 degrees outward lean, and 1/2" toe in. That's what seems to work best on my rig; a Honda GL1100-EML combination. I like keeping toe in small, because of tire wear.
Vernon mentioned something that is often overlooked. That is recheckimg the toe in after any lean adjustments are made. To get a 'handle' on what a given setup will do and how leaning the bike will or will not affect toe in is simple. Unhook the top of the top struts.With the bottom mounts looose but snug lean th ebike in and out. While doing so watch the sidecar wheel and see if it 'steers' which means toe in is changing. Knowing this and knowing if the sidecar wheel toes in or out with lean out changes can save many hours of head scratching.
Also...and this is only a pet peve. It is best to measure off the wheels and not th etires. Tires can be irregular in some cases and provide readings that would be hard to duplicate.It is also not a bad idea to spin the wheels and check that they are true before doing all th emaesuring. If they are off some you can mark where the measurements are taken so you can have accuracy when rechecking again. The ability to Duplicate measurements is important if you want to record things.
Lady. You might get better response if you start your own topic/thread. I can't help you, just happened to see your post as I am always looking for easy ways to measure lean.. :-)... Good luck. gp
Thanks maybe I will but the link for sidecar instructions was very helpful..........again thank you......Linda
No problem. I was afraid your question my get lost in this thread.. 🙂 gail
Gail is right, ask this again in a new post, under technical discussion and ask some of our HD riders to post photos of the individual mounts. Then contact your dealer or the motor company, I would hope they'd be happy to give you the owner's booklet.
I did not get to the Toe in and Lean angle adjustments last night... We have the family coming here for Easter dinner, lots to prepare for.
I did go get the PDF installation instructions from Velorex...
At any rate, I'll do it tonight... I am a little concerned about the amount of thread showing on the front/top arm... there is already almost 7" showing and the tube of the arm is only 11" long... Is there a point where the threaded section should not exceed...? Obviously if there were only an inch holding that would be wrong but do I have a worry here...?
Also, do I need to loosen the rear/lower connector to adjust Toe in... say if the front needs to be pulled in...?
Thanks,
Rob
I doubt that the diagonal brace tube is threaded full length. If you unscrew the brace completely, you can feel inside the tube with your finger or a piece of rod to find out how much thread there is. That will determin the maximum amount of thread engagement that your brace will have.
Bob in Wis,
Ahh, good idea, I never would have thunk it... makes perfect sense.
Thanks,
rd
MikeS,
Neat, I happen to have a couple of pieces of drip edge hangin' around...
Also, are you saying that if it needs more toe in I will wear tires out quicker...? How do I know which needs moving after a test ride...? Meaning, if something does not feel right, how would a novice know what to move...? Toe in or Lean...?
Thanks,
rd
claude,
Got it, wheels and not tires...
Thanks,
rd
Mark,
Gotcha,
Is there a rule of thumb for amount of exposed threads or amount of engagement..?
Thanks,
rd
Thanks very much all, I appreciate the input. Sue loves the chair,I don't want to screw it up now...!! 🙂
Rob
Originally written by claude #3563 on 4/13/2006 6:26 PM
..and this is only a pet peve. It is best to measure off the wheels and not th etires. Tires can be irregular in some cases and provide readings that would be hard to duplicate.
Claude, I have to measure off the tires...dont have disc on the rear, and wheels are sunk in about an inch from the tires.
I use a 4x4 block to raise the straight edge up on the tire.
Originally written by claude #3563 on 4/13/2006 6:26 PM
..and this is only a pet peve. It is best to measure off the wheels and not th etires. Tires can be irregular in some cases and provide readings that would be hard to duplicate.
=========================================================
Claude, I have to measure off the tires...dont have disc on the rear, and wheels are sunk in about an inch from the tires.
I use a 4x4 block to raise the straight edge up on the tire.
-----
Bob in Sussex,Wis.
'73 R75/5 w/'77 R100RS engine
earles fork/
Motorvation FII
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Like I said it is a peve of mine. You may be fine. In doing a lot of rigs I have found tires to be inconsistant in many cases. Rims can even be off . It is best to spin the wheel and see if variations exist in the wheel or tire. A little at that point makes for a lot at th efront end when toe is measured.
Whartever straight edge is used can be spaced out away from the wheel the same front and rear. I have standoffs on a piece of 1x1 square tubing for this. It all comes down to whatever works for you and if it works or not is proven in the handling and tire wear.
