Igor, the MZ disc break in the back is a great idea, but isn't it overkill?
My experience with the MZ calipers was that salt water made them stick. so specially in Winter or early spring they begged badly for aclean up and vaseline in the rubber parts
Both MZ and Jawa front disk have agreat grip, only eat up their pads relatively fast with sidecar use.
The paint is done, but I had to bring my wifes car to Riteve = TÛV = tecnical revision so I couldn't finish the loo engine guard yet.
Henry was laughing about it. He means that is the real sence of recicling.
Sven
Today as Barak Obama entered into Costa Rica with a huge security staff and helicopters passing by once and again, was the recicling day for our Jaquarna rig.
I recycled the KLR saddle bag brackets and a loo top. Not beautiful, but useful.
The engine guard is a 2 screw snap on mount with 2 fuse points where it shall break in order to not damage the frame or engine mounts.
1871,1876,1879 = broken shock base
1880-1885 = engine guard
1872 = Lost vin numbers
1873 = new front engine ears.
Things start to get forward 😉
This week was a bussy one, so it wasn't until Thursday we were able to mount the engine into the frame.
Igor, until today I notice that you seem to have misunderstood me. The new sprocket is mounted on top of the original Jawa sprocket with its rubber damper and all.
The old sprocket I did turn down the teeth and refaced it, then I milled out the nests in the aluminum base for to fit the new sprocket, which inner diameter is smaller then the recess between aluminuim and the molded in steel sprocket. As I marked in the photo there is a hole in the steel for to improve the union between aluminium and steel. So if I would have to do it once more I would turn the new sprocket a little backward for to get more distance between the holes and the new mounting screws.
A question to the specialists:
I did fill up the oil into the engine before mounting it when it was in its original level position.
Inside the frame the engine is tilted a little to the front.
The oil level view glass is mounted directly below the crank bearing. Now the view glass is flooded. (first photo round black part between clutch cover and oil filter cover)
As in one ocasion I broke my first motorcycle engine by overfilling it in winter and later when the oil expanded, foam was produced and the oil came out of every engine housing splitting and compression gone...
I have the serious doubt that I should take out oil until the glass will show again the right height.
That there will be less oil inside the engine should not be as serious as pounding the crank and piston foot into the oil and producing foam.
Anyhow accourding to the Husquarna importer I will use fully sintetic oil in this bike, which should help if the oil level inside the clutch is a little lower then normal.
I guess that the angle the engine is tilted further to the front is less then 5°, which makes me estimate that the engine oil level in the clutch will be about 9 to 12mm = 3/8 to 1/2" less then before. => One more thing I should measure.
So what Do You think? Every comment is wellcome.
Thanks Sven
I can't say this is expert knowledge, Sven. But it seems to me if you take a look at the safe operating position of the engine in the original bike the engine came out of, and never exceed that, then you should be safe. Motorcycles in general, except for dedicated street only models, are intended for uneven terrain, hills and slopes upward and downward. It should not cause any damage to always stay within those design angles and with the oil level as stated by the manufacturer. I cannot see how that could cause any damage.
Jimmy,
there were 2 points where the engine would have hit in the original position. The carburator to the tank and the engine's bottom to the central stand's spring rests.
That is the reason why I had to tip a little forward. The engine´s original bike is a competition motocross version, Husquarna TC450.
Our terrain is just one word: TUFF.
So steep as most people cannot imagine.
What I noted is that the air puffes hard out of the open oil filling plug when I crank the engine.
Sven
Sven, my bike is exactly the same case - 2 stroke Jawa engine swapped with 4-stroke cross bike engine, flipped front 🙂
As I see carburetor position, you flipped engine about 15-20 degrees front. Add, let's say, 20 degrees of some longer downhill and fuel can will pour directly to cyliner. I would make a new carburetor mount, to have the carburetor level when bike stands on a level ground. Just like I did in my Jura:
Oil level - if you have some dissection of your engine case, it would be help. I fill oil to upper part of glass window. But you flipped your engine more than me. So you have to see if oil level that is correct for crankcase, isn't too low for gearbox. your engine is probably designed to withstand work in non-level positions, but it's designed to work in it's normal level and to be flipped front/rear, but always back to it's normal level.
Air puffes from open oil filling plug, because in 4strokes, crankcase and gearbox are the same space. So every time you crank, 450ccm of air puffes in and out through this small hole. Normal and correct. There is small hole in upper part of gearbox case, ended up with small rubber pipe that runs to deoiler, then to air filter. In smaller 4-strokes, rubber pipe can even remain unconnected. I don't know english name of this hole, it can be "breather" or so.
Few days after I posted about sprocket, I saw photos on normal PC screen and recognized Jawa sprocket base with teeth "shaved" from sprocket.
Last year I tried to use Jawa sprocket base, but I needed 37-38teeth sprocket instead of Jawa's 55, in the same distance from bike's centerline - 73mm. That was the reason to make this strange MZ-mix sprocket base and thinnest wheel hub I know - MZ front. Hence I used disc. But MZ caliper doesn't work properly with normal rear brake pump. It brakes perfectly but pistons almost don't return. So last wednesday I was enlightened 🙂 and made third version of rear sprocket-wheel-brake set. You inspired me to use jawa parts back. I throw out some distancing elements. Thanks to nowadays 2RS type bearings, I could throw out metal cap sealing from wheel hub. Then I cut some space in sprocket base with no mercy, to get it closer do bike's centerline. Then I throw out the sprocket completely from aluminium cast, using angle grinder (shame, looks fvcking bad, but technically correct). Then I turned sprocket nest on lathe. I havent seen such eccentric element for years... Bearing case was 70mm diameter and has over 2mm eccentric cast. Now the sprocket is mounted in completely other place on sprocket base, than original one, but still 73mm from bike's centerline. Will post some photos as soon as I find my camera.
If it will to its job, I will buy another used Jawa sprocket and make it less "crappy" look. Used sprocket bases, almost without teeth, are cheap and massively available, so it's cheaper to buy used base with rubber in good condition, than buy a new rubber. Fortunately for me (and unfortunately for Jawa owners) Jawa sprocket base is single-use with sprocket casted into aluminium base... what did its designer take/drink? It should be forbidden.
What did they drink?
Naturally: Slivowitz, real Budweiser and Köpi.
What else?
In a few minutes I'll go up into the shop and will measure the engine tilt.
Good idea to use the carburator bowl seperation as horizontal reference. The idea of champfering the carburator base I had in the beginning too.
As a friend and former companion uses to say: "I will think about it when I'll reach that point of the job."
I haven't got to that moment yet.
Good luck to everybody and enjoy the spring. My sister told me yesterday on mothers day that You still are at 10°C. Brrrrr.
We have about 22-24°C, but horizontal rain.
Sven
Today was one of the nice days with horizontal rain where nobody disturbed us in the machine shop and all three of us got ahead with our projects.
First thing was the measurement of the engine tilt: 10°
Results in 25mm level difference in the gear box (90mm diam), 17mm in the clutch (160mm diam) and 10mm in the oil pump position.
The oil level tolerance in the view glass is 10mm.
So, if I keep the oil level always close to the upper edge, things should work out, plus the oil pump should do its part too for to flood the clutch and the gear box. At least I hope it will do it, because I have no idea how the lubrication system is designed.
The carburator base will have to be modificated a little. A small milled champher or a wedge, we'll see what fits best.
The handle bar gained 26mm on each side for to compensate the brackets from gas and and hydraulic clutch handles and continue to use the original switch bases. I turned the extension studs out of aircraft aluminium and simply banged them into the tube with a nice press fit using the famous 3 pound "Nicaraguan universal wrench". Perhaps it might lower a little the handling force too.
The former Jawa gas grip base got cut a little and recieved new screw bases in the gas cable channel, into where I installed the push button for the electric starter too.
Don't get the idea to solder the cables, they will break once and again. In the 4th intent I crimped the cables in cold and things finally worked out well.
So far from rainy Costa Rica.
Sven
The oil temperature sensor from my 2nd bike 1983 CB650 was before measuring the Jawas cylinderhead temperture. now again the oil temperature of the husquarna engine. Adapter turned out of brass.
Most of the day took a 10degree adapter for the carburator out of phenolic / bakelite. Looks like wood and was nice to work with. pure art work: milled, handcarved and filed with wood tools.
And as usual in the afternoon came in requests for things offered years ago, now you aught to run. sos
Sven 😮
All I advanced today was to screw on the carburator adapter to the engine.
Afterwards we made the first running tests with Henry's waste water recycling plant. As usual it first comes diferent as You second thought...
The used solenoid valves last 5 minutes with the dirty water and then they won't shut any more => Change to another design... A prefilter is essential, if not, the strainer clogs up in a finger snip. => automatic drain and strainer flush, when the flow rate collapses, can be achieved with a proximity switch on the flow meter.
We used original sample water....Nice smell all over the workshop....
Sven
😉
🙂 Kommt Zeit kommt Rat 🙂 As time passes by, the advice comes by its own.
Last saturdays question got resolved today by a casuality.
How to determine the right maximum oil level in a tilted engine? :O
Well today I had to change oil in the KLR solo and while talking to a neighbour I overfilled her quite a bit.
As I had to fill the oil filter which would take some of the surpluss oil, I started the engie => milky foam = that's no good. => bleed some of the surpluss oil !
In total I had to bleed 3 times until the settleing oil did not show foam, but would settle in nice golden color.
Result after 5 minutes settleing the oil with the leveled engine the oil level would show exactly the upper line.
After driving home I had the same effect, neat golden color in the oil level glas. 🙂
So by try and error it seems to be possible to check out the maximum oil level for the Jaquarna "Little Red Riding Cape" 🙂
The wedge I built for the carburator will have to get shaved down a bit. With 10° the lower carburator housing toutches the starter motor. Vibration would cause desasters.
First I got fuzzy about how to fixture the adaptor in the mill or surface grinder. Now I have an idea. 3M double sided tape on top of an easy to align steel plate in the precision vice will hold the bakelite well enough.
Have a nice spring weekend
Sven 😉
The handle bar is under construction work.
1889 although I shaved 1° off the bakelite wedge the carburator still hits the starter motor. => will have to shave more tomorrow.
1892-93 The right handle with a self made starter pushbutton on the right side of the kill switch. 2 component Epoxi and silicone are helpers again.
1891-95 The left handle needed a hack saw diet, a little welding, epoxi and will need some milling for a new clutch base clamp. That will be tomorrows fiddleing. 😉
1896-97 The old airfilter box has space to get recicled. The internals will have to go because they are different and the ducts are way too small to handle the new air volume,
but the appearance should be acceptable.
🙂 one step at a time and you will get very far. 🙂
Sven
Ps: there seems to be something wrong with the editing. I cannot swap the position of the photos. Each time an error code comes up.
Maybe you can make a new mounting piece. It should contain two flanges and some pipe cut by angle, everything welded together. Flanges are angled to each other like in your bakelite connector, but can be also offset. Something like on the picture, but shorter:
With 8° the wedge leaves the carburator free from the starter motor. Means a position difference of 2° before and after is not a big deal.
The hydraulic clutch is prepared.
When friend Henry stepped in and the splish splash fun started.
He made up a self cleaning filter of a style like we develloped some 15 years ago for coffee processing plants. Then with a simple proximity switch we converted a conus flow meter into a automatic trigger for cleaning the safety strainer of his ultra filtration.
But the nicest thing was to make up the proportional turbidity meter. What still a few years ago I had to charge 2000,-Euro for first class German sensors, we made with 120,-$ the programable control 5$ a light sensor and 2$ for the light....Some milling, filing, tweeting and Mickey Mouse. and .... Done!
I got stuck with the project. the carburator and old airfilter box interfere quite a bit and the new airfilter is huge.
I am no friend at all of the open after market air filters, which alter the air flow and resonances. So some action under the skull is going on right now...
