I have a Valk/ Motorvation Spyder rig with a Steerite triple tree. Steering is easy and there's no wobble.
But here's the catch. I have severe arthritis in my right wrist. When traveling on uneven surfaces,( like bad interstate slabs), the handlebars are constantly in motion due to the way all three tires hit the road at different times, especially since I'm running about 14 inches of lead and tread width is about 64 inches.. This really plays h--- on my wrist. As a result, I can travel 500 mile days on good pavement but only about 100 miles on uneven pavement due to my wrist hurting, (I'm 80).
Here's the question. Is there a steering damper out there that could be readily adjustable to dampen out this problem when needed but dialed for no damping when not needed?
Sorry for the long winded explanation but this will determine whether I get completely out of the sidecar enjoyment and give up motorcycling altogether. TIA.
Wayne
Wayne, One could be constructed with an adjustable friction control, they are made for the trailer towing industry. Look toward the RV dealers, a load distribution hitch with an adjustable sway control. This would be overkill for your needs, but that is the idea of what you need. In addition to being big and bulky this mass would be about as ugly as a double ration of homemade sin. lol
One made from this idea but to smaller proportions could work and look good at the same time.
mrmustash
StorZ has an adjustable steering damper available but they are quite pricey. I've used them in the past but I think my last one was $360.00 or thereabouts. More than I am willing to pay now.
Lonnie
Wayne, I just got back from a trip to Alaska and there was a lot of uneven and broken pavement to deal with. I have bad arthritis in my right hand and the thing that saved me is the cruise control. With it set I steered the rig with the left hand I would say 80% of the time while my right hand relaxed. I have the ez-steer and it is easy to control with one hand. I think there is a cruise control that will fit your Valk. It is at http.//www.mccruise.com. It won't be cheap but may enable you to keep riding. Ralf
Originally written by solo1 on 9/22/2008 9:32 AM
I have a Valk/ Motorvation Spyder rig with a Steerite triple tree. Steering is easy and there's no wobble.
But here's the catch. I have severe arthritis in my right wrist. When traveling on uneven surfaces,( like bad interstate slabs), the handlebars are constantly in motion due to the way all three tires hit the road at different times, especially since I'm running about 14 inches of lead and tread width is about 64 inches.. This really plays h--- on my wrist. As a result, I can travel 500 mile days on good pavement but only about 100 miles on uneven pavement due to my wrist hurting, (I'm 80).Here's the question. Is there a steering damper out there that could be readily adjustable to dampen out this problem when needed but dialed for no damping when not needed?
Sorry for the long winded explanation but this will determine whether I get completely out of the sidecar enjoyment and give up motorcycling altogether. TIA.Wayne
Wayne,
The large amount of lead you are running will magnify the hobbyhorsing effect when going over the joints in the highway. If you can reduce lead it should help a lot.
Another possibly help would be a stiffer rear suspension to 'catch' the weight transfer better as the sidecar wheel hits the bumps.
Ready for and old school solution? Don't laugh but if you hook a rubber bungie chord to the left handle bar and run it down and back to maybe the rear footpeg it may help you out some also. Make sure there is enough give in the bungee to allow full turning to the right etc. You can vary the tension with different length chords or different attachement points. A bungee on each side may also be worth trying. Psst...don't tell anyone I suggested this 🙂
Thanks everyone for the ideas.
We don't really have the facility to adapt a friction damper. The hydraulic dampers are salty as you pointed out, Lonnie, plus I would have to come up with my own adaptation to the forks and chassis, difficult. Price rules thatout anyway
I do have a throttle lock which helps some. Our VRCC guys have installed cruise controls adapted from a car so that might be something to look at. I'll take another look at that.
Claude, that's the reason that I mentioned lead and tread width. As you know, both of these contribute to the handlebars going nuts. I can't reduce the lead at all with the present hardware since I'm at max adjustments on the hardware.. On the Spyder, the wheel is close to the center of the car. I can narrow the tread width which would aggravate the problem of the Spyder being too light for the Valk.. Live and learn.
I'll have to do more thinking on this. Maybe a new wrist? LOL!
Thnaks again everyone.
Heck you might want to call Motorvation if you haven't already. They are great folks to talk to and may able to help out.
The cheapest cruise control I used to use on the autobahn back in Europe was a simple rubber band (as you use for glas conserves) wrapped in the slott between Handle bar and gas gripp. Tied just strong enough to keep the throttle on spot. Here with these twistie roads: I not even come to the idea.
Sven
Dennis Kirk has some adjustable steering stabilizers on page 538 of their Metric Bikes catalog, as well as some universal mount brackets and such. The stabilizers run $130. You can order a free catalog at denniskirk.com. It doesn't say how much adjustment they have though.
