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squeaky noise in left turns..

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(@Anonymous)
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suspecoious noises? Those have to be the worst kind Claude! (lol)


 
Posted : May 27, 2007 3:50 pm
(@claude-3563)
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sush pish us


 
Posted : May 27, 2007 3:54 pm
(@Anonymous)
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You calls 'em like you sees 'em. Ain't nuthin' more honest than that.


 
Posted : May 27, 2007 4:01 pm
(@Anonymous)
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still no test time on the rig.
have been busy rebuilding XS750..

how can I check if mounts are okay?


 
Posted : May 27, 2007 7:16 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Originally written by skiri251 on 5/28/2007 2:44 AM

still no test time on the rig.
have been busy rebuilding XS750..

how can I check if mounts are okay?

start by touching them with a wrench, check for loosening.

Rock the sidecar back and forth, jump up and down on it see if anything moves.

physically inspect components and fasteners for signs of failure. cracked paint or rust lines often indicate a crack in the underlying metal.

try to cause the noise by rolling the bike around, turning the handle bars, rocking, it etc-see if youcan isolate where the sound is coming from.


 
Posted : May 27, 2007 7:23 pm
(@Hack__n)
Posts: 4720
Famed Member
 

Shigeo,
Many years ago when I was a bridge painter, an old Railroad inspector showed me how he tested for loose rivets and bolts by rapping them with a silver dollar. If it gave a "ping" they passed. If a "clack" or a dull sound was emitted the connection would fail the inspection.
This same test can be applied to welded or bolted connections using a small end wrench (if you don't have a pre 1965 silver dollar).

A disclaimer here: It won't work on heim joints or rubber bushed connections. He just used it for steel to steel connections.

Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars


 
Posted : May 28, 2007 7:02 am
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Finally went out for test drive.
Prior to this, I tightened front end bolts/nuts and re-adjusted the alignment.

The squeak is still there..
Also I experienced wobble @ 20~30 MPH slight right turn.
I held on to the bar but that didn't stop it.
I just didn't feel confortable so aborted the run.

After that, I looked at the mounts, pinged the bolts with small wrench but couldn't tell the difference.

Can be a metal fatigue and dangerous?
Should I replace all the mounts with new ones?
I know at least one of the u-shaped bracket has holes distorted badly. It's elongated so maybe PO overtighten the clamp bolt..
I didn't think of it much when I attached it but..

Or am I worrying too much?


 
Posted : May 28, 2007 6:47 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

is there shiny metal by or on the bracket with the elongated holes indicating it has been moving? Hard to second guess over the internet. If you are near a sidecar shop such as Doug Bingham, you might have someone else help you check it over...


 
Posted : May 29, 2007 3:53 am
(@Hack__n)
Posts: 4720
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If the holes in the U-clamp strap are obviously elongated, the Eye bolt has been overtightened and strap is not fit for use. A new U-clamp assembly should be used. At least a new strap is in order and I would also check the condition of the through bolts. On used cars sometimes I've found the 8.8 grade bolts have been replaced with softer 5.5 grade metrics or even ungraded 1/4" NC bolts.

Lonnie


 
Posted : May 29, 2007 12:17 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Hi Lonnie,

Where can I get a mounting kit?
From VelorexUSA in NY?
Or from you?

How much would it (complete set) cost?


 
Posted : May 29, 2007 5:25 pm
(@Hack__n)
Posts: 4720
Famed Member
 

Shigeo,
I sent you a private message.

Lonnie


 
Posted : May 29, 2007 8:01 pm
(@Anonymous)
Posts: 0
 

Got new mounting brackets from Lonnie.
Installed them today. There was no sign of old bracket moving.
Did the test drive in the parking lot. Squeak is still there but it seems to be from the disk brake itself.. duh..
Well, new brackets give me peace of mind.

Went out to the twisties.
I got wobbles getting out of right hander especially if I try hard.
Front forks twisting/flexing?

I should really look for that fork brace...


 
Posted : June 9, 2007 11:00 pm
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