Hi, hope you can help me I’m trying to set up my first motorcycle and sidecar. I have a Yamaha XJ 900 Diversion ( not sold in USA ) which I’m trying to marry to a Motopodd sidecar chassis. The chassis is very much like a Velorex and used Velorex fittings.
My problem is the lower rear slide mount (heavy duty) keeps rotating. I’ve tried the swan neck facing forward and back, but either way after a few miles the slide mount has slipped.
Here is a link to my home page so you can see some photos.
http://www.mrbillington.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/sidecar_fitting.htm
http://www.mrbillington.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/sidecar.htm
Other details
• The only component that has moved is the sliding mount
• The rear swan neck has been tested on several occasions in both directions but the sliding mount still moved
• Axle lead 32 cm
• Tow in 15 mm
• Bike leans out 3 degrees to start with then begins to lean towards sidecar after use
• No issues with bike wobble, just a little under 30 mph
• The outfit requires equal force to turns left and right when first set up
Thanks for any help you can offer.
I notice tape under the front oddly angled clamp. Is the rear lower mounting clamp a paint to paint connection? Or is there tape there too?
I would spot weld both ends of the rotating clamp top and bottom.
This has been done a lot with the OEM Velorex rear sliding clamp for years with no ill effects.
Lonnie
Thanks for your advice Lonnie. There is no tape under the lower rear sliding mount, it is straight onto a freshly powder coated frame.
I’m going to turn the rear swan neck around which will move the mounting back. However my previous test set ups have shown me that this is not enough to stop it rotating around the frame.
Does this type of Velorex sliding mount often slip then?
Have you much experience of spot welding these types of sliding mount?
The only other thing I can think of doing is turning the from swan neck around, which would move the rear swan neck further down the sidecar frame. However I would end up with about 40 cm axle lead. Is that far to much?
I’m really grateful for your help.
40cm is quite a lot of lead. 8" to 10" would ease steering and tire wear.
I've spot welded many OEM Velorex sliding rear clamps in the last 25 years or so for off-road and heavy loading rigs.
The best position (without welding) is when the mounts are in a straight line (as shown). A straight push and pull force with no odd angles to allow increased leverage.
You are dealing with a paint to paint clamping surface which will give sooner or later as the surfaces compress with age.
Lonnie
when I battled that problem in the past I wire brushed all the paint off, coated the two connecting pieces with red Loctite
They never moved again until I took them back apart.
As long as the paint is there the joint will not develop enough friction to stay where you initially install it
good luck
ron
Thank you very much for all your help and advice setting up my outfit.
After welding the top section of the sliding mount to the frame there is no movement.
This link shows two images:
http://www.mrbillington.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/finished_sidecar.htm
The rear lower mount looks much better and more stable now. I had to make a new rear lower bracket to mount my Velorex to my Sportster and so far it has worked great.
Hack'n, I notice in your pic a U shape connection to the bike. I have a 85 BMW and Velorex sidecar. Attempted using the universal mount, but bike and car droop when moving. I now have a DMC mount on the bike and will attempt another car attachment. But seeing your arrangement with a mount I hadn't seen gives me another pause. The DMC mount was very expensive and makes me wonder if it's the answer to my issues.
Thanks,LB.
DMC stuff is pricey, but it works!
