Thinking about putting together another combination, this will be my fifth. One bike I'm considering for use as tug is the Honda Shadow Sabre 1100. Cast wheels means no spokes loosening, disk brakes front and rear, plenty of torque and slightly lower gearing with fat tires make it look like a good bet to me, also having hydraulic lifters means less maintenance issues. However, the engine is rubber-mounted, which means a slightly less ridgid frame. Is this bike a good bet in your collective opinion, or should I confine my shopping to rigid-mounted engines? I did have a Harley factory sidecar hooked up to a Road King which had not only a rubber-mounted engine but only three attachment points, and it worked fine. Thanks in advance for your insight.
I put 8 k on my 98 Honda Shadow Spirit with a Velorex 565 in a year and can think of two others that are using a Shadow on this site.
Just make sure the engine, when it moves in the rubber mounts, does not hit any of the stuff stuck on the frame when the sidecar is mounted. Just talked to a guy the toher day that had a problem along thos likes with a Harley rig. It was not a Harley sidecar.
Rubber mounted engine bikes are no problem for sidecar installation as the frames are reinforced to increase rigidity without support from the driveline components.
As Claude suggested: Just leave enough room around attachment members to allow for free engine movement without contact with any drive components or the exhaust pipes.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
This is all good advice above if you have a rubber-mounted engine like a Harley FL. HD is aware of this issue and the installation instructions give ample advice on avoiding conflicts with the sidecar mounts and braces.
If using other than a Harley sidecar on a Harley, as mentioned, it would be wise to check all clearances to make sure nothing hits.
As you can see by my user name I have a Shadow with a Calf Sidecar, the only thing you might want to consider is the fact that it's shaft drive, IMHO you would be better off with a chain/belt, something you can change ratios with.
Ted
In the old days, Harley used to be concerned with gearing. Nowadays they don't bother. The old sidecar rigs had only three forward and a reverse. Lower ration sprockets were easily changed and readily available. The modern bikes are running 5 and even 6 speeds wt larger engines so it's less of a concern.
With a 5 speed tranny you shold be able to find a gear that will work. Most bikes will pull a sidecar in high gear on a level road.
Changing belt ratios on a modern Harley is quite a chore. Changing the belt is a major task, requiring the removal of the swingarm.
On my 2004 FL, I have fairly high gearing, 3.14:1, whereas the earlier Evos had 3.37:1. It still does OK due to the slightly larger engine (88 c.i.) and the 2007's have even more with 96 c.i. and six speeds.
I think the Shadow would be a good sidecar bike with a properly-sized rig as long as it has 5 speeds.
I've changed rear sprockets on my Harleys from the international gearing 61 tooth to the 70 tooth for better pulling power. Works great.
Karata and several others also sell different tooth tranny sprockets to adjust the power band.
Most all will require changing belt lengths.
Lonnie
Deleted
What is?
Originally written by Hack'n on 3/8/2007 6:04 PM
What is?
I'm going to guess that you are talking to me.
Following are list prices on the parts:
1. 40217-04 Rear Sprocket, 70 T $171.00
2. 40024-04 Belt, 139 T 207.00
So, parts would be $378 plus an estimate of 7-8 hours labor at $90/hr. locally for another $630 to $720. Total; of around $1,000 plus tax.
Another, less expensive alternative wold be to change the clutch basket to a 37 tooth unit. Still around $200 for parts although labor would be much less.
Is it your opinion that changing ratios on Harleys is simple and inexpensive?
Gaylord,
The question was: What is? Meaning what is inexpensive when dealing with changing drive ratios on most any motorcycle that doesn't have a chain drive. Not just Harleys.
FYI: I pay less and do my own work on my rigs. A service manual and a couple of skinned knuckles is much less expensive if you're looking to save $$$.
Lonnie
Lonnie. I meant that changing ratios on a belt-drive Harley is "not inexpensive". I agree that we should try to do our own work. I've been doing it for a long time as I'm sure that you have also. That's about 50% of the fun.
I've discovered that the 88" and 96" Harleys will pull a sidecar quite well so long as high gear (5th or 6th depending on the transmission) is reserved for nice flat roads at 60 mph or above. Around town, the first four (or five) gears will give you most any ratio that you need.
Watch your knuckles. Ha. LOL
Originally written by gnm109 on 3/9/2007 10:32 AM
Lonnie. I meant that changing ratios on a belt-drive Harley is "not inexpensive". I agree that we should try to do our own work. I've been doing it for a long time as I'm sure that you have also. That's about 50% of the fun.
I've discovered that the 88" and 96" Harleys will pull a sidecar quite well so long as high gear (5th or 6th depending on the transmission) is reserved for nice flat roads at 60 mph or above. Around town, the first four (or five) gears will give you most any ratio that you need.
Watch your knuckles. Ha. LOL
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Seems like so many riders (especially americans for some reason)tend to short shift their bikes (sidecar rig or solo bike). If we can learn to keep the bike in the rpm range it is happiest in and not worry too much about how quickly we can get into high gear things would get a lot better.
Of course if a rig is geared too high (Low numerically) then starting from a stop can be hard on things.
That's right. Lots of lugging going on It's good to keep the engine rolling. The Harley doesn't have al that much rpm range but I avoid lugging it.
Regartds,
GNM
