Laser level for alignment??

I never had any luck with my laser level. I like using fluorescent tubes.

I use 1x1 square tubing or strings. Have a laser but never fooled with it. The flourescent tubes are great but a goof like me woudl surely end up with having to clean the glass and dust up too often. I did hear that they were Dave Hannigan's preference though.True? Dunno.

1" X 1" X.120" wall square tube perched on two coffee cans works fine for me for toe-in measurement. Less breakage than flourescent tubes when they get knocked off. I measure toe-in from below the bike axles on my setups.
We're not talking rocket science here on alignment, too many variables to deal with.
One of the few constants is the toe-in measurement on a rigid mount rig.

Lonnie
Northwest Sidecar

Lonnie wrote:
>>1" X 1" X.120" wall square tube perched on two coffee cans works fine for me for toe-in measurement.<<

Yes, if using 1x1 or whtever make sure it is heavy enough not to flex all over the place. I use 1/8" wall too.
Lonnie I am sure you have those coffee cans painted and labeled with Northwest Sidecar on them right? Gotta be professional ya know..lol.

I use eight foot square tubing myself, I'm just looking for a more portable method that can be transported across the state and used in the parking lot of an apartment building. Neon tubes are much to fragile to ride in my sidecar and my steel bars are too clumsy. Haven't tried string before.

Mike,
A 1" professional grade tape measure will also work and is quite portable.

Claude,
Both tubing guages are bar striped red and yellow (so I don't cut them up for fabrication). The coffee cans are replaced with new ones about once a week (as consumption allows) so they won't lose their precision adjustment.
Also painting (and neighborhood cats) will mar the fine tin finish.

Lonnie

To the original question, you put the lasers on the outside of the bike tire and also the outside of the hack tire and measure your toe. Now was that so hard? if the bike has offset you make allowance.

Gene said:
To the original question, you put the lasers on the outside of the bike tire and also the outside of the hack tire and measure your toe. Now was that so hard? if the bike has offset you make allowance.

I'll add: (From where?)
If using the rear (Bike) tire only for the measurement, be sure the front wheel is straight ahead so as not to interfere with the beam. If using both bike tires and the front and rear tires of the bike are of a different size or diameter (as most are), an allowance must be made on the front tire for 1/2 of the diameter of the rear tire. Using both bike wheels/tires will give a closer measurement in case of a slight misalignment of the rear swing-arm (which is quite common).

Regardless of method of measuring toe-in there is much variation of claimed net amounts ranging from 0" to up to 2" sometimes. The reason for this being that one person measures the toe-in from both ends of an 8' 2"x4" of questionable straightness, another measures it at 10' with a piece of string, etc, etc. I choose from below the bike axles regardless of wheelbase, using straight 1"x 1" square steel tube against the sidecar wheel. From the center of the rims to the outside of the tube.

The main parameter is the seat of the pants test. Does the rig go down the roads you choose with neutral steering and minimum tire wear? If so you are well rigged and aligned, whatever the method or numbers used.

Happy Trails,

Lonnie

Couple of tips...
Whatever method is used with whatever for a tool if you want to be able to get consistant references it is best to measure off of the wheels and not the tires. It is also a good idea to spin the wheel with a pointer of some kind next to it to see if it is straight or not. If it wobbles some you may want to try and split the difference, so to speak, and mark the point you measured from so you can use the same point again. Also it is good practice to see if toe in changes as you change lean out. Some do and some do not. If you have a rig that the toe in changes when the bike is leaned in or out and know it you can compensate as needed when needed.
When all of the dust clears the correct amount of toe in run will only be determined by whether you are getting the best tire wear you can for that given rig. Usually the rear tire will be th eone to moniter. I like to run as little toe in as possible.
Also it is very important to have mounts that do not flex and move when the rig is in motion. If the sidecar and the bike are not running as one unit you will be like a cat chasing his tail when trying to get a good setup on a rig.
Sorry if I am preaching to the choir but ya never know.

mike wrote:
>>I use eight foot square tubing myself, I'm just looking for a more portable method that can be transported across the state and used in the parking lot of an apartment building.<<
String works well..all you need is something to fasten it o..concret block, brick, rock, tree, or whatever.
Lonnies tape sound good but you'd need three ..one for bike one for sidecar and one to measure with..I guess?
Lazer?...this would allow the set-up-er to impress the set-up-ee no doubt and probably is the coolest of the three. Make sure your batteries are good.

With the Dnepr, I used to clamp an 8 foot bar to the rear brake rotor on the bike and the rotor on the sidecar. Now with the Ural I'll need to find a better sidecar mount. People have posted things about lasers before, I was just curious how they mounted them.
Our local lumber wholesaler, Menards is advertising magnetic mount lasers for ten bucks. Maybe I'll just grab a couple and play. They're even cheaper than 1 inch tapes. :0)

Mike,
Better make sure those ten dollar lasers aren't seconds.
The Chinese ones from Wal-Mart put out a crooked beam. LOL

Lonnie

Originally written by Hack'n on 1/25/2006 5:30 PM

Mike,
Better make sure those ten dollar lasers aren't seconds.
The Chinese ones from Wal-Mart put out a crooked beam. LOL

Lonnie

That's not even funny. :0)
I thought lasers were super accurate and straight as can be, but even the expensive ones have disclaimers saying they are accurate to within 1/2" at 30 feet. Hell, that isn't straight enough to reach from one end of my living room to the other.

Close enough..just check your tire wear 🙂