hitch

When we were at Hayden Lk. at the USCA Rally there was a fellow that was trying to get one of the locale sidecar sellers put one on his rig but there seemed to be a lot of reluctance for anyone to do so and I don't know why, he had a 3" channel that was long enough to span both cross tubes and enough for the trailer to hook to, I don't know, maybe it was the load that would be put on the tubes that caused the fuss so before you do it listen to what the guys who install sidecars on this forum have to say about it, it's such a simple set up but there must be draw backs to it, like liability, but that's a guess on my part.

I'm towing an Aspen Classic with our GL1800/Hannigan GTL from behind the bike. We're about seven feet wide but still within legal limit.

While in Port Dover, Ontario for the March Friday the 13th rally saw a rig with square channel running centered between the sidecar and bike. It was the entire length of the frame and ended with a trailer hitch. Thought it was a smart thing to run with the trailer centered on the entire rig, but after reading more of the postings about brakes or no brakes on the sidecar (don't know if the unit had them), now wonder if having the trailer between the bike and sidecar would increase the torque in a stop. Almost seems like you would have to have sidecar brakes to have any hope of stopping in a straight line with this set up.

When I tow the aspen with my royal star I have to ride closer to the center of the lane to keep from hanging over,If I did that with the rig I would think the car would be off the road

I was once able to get a welding shop to build me one for a GL1000, but I think the whole liability thing stops the manufacturers.
The easiest one to make yourself is just a piece of square tubing with a 1 3/4 inch inside and holes every inch or so. You buy it in any hardware store in 4 or 6 foot lengths. With a couple of U-Bolts, you can attach it to the sidecar frame and lengthen or shorten it as well as move it left or right till it feels right. The reason I like that size is that a 1 1/2 inch receiver fits inside it anda 2 inch one will fit over the top. You may have to enlarge a couple holes to get the cross pin to fit. Once you are satisfied, you can add an angled brace or replace the whole works and just use this as a pattern.
I've always had a hitch mounted between the bike and sidecar until this last combination. In most cases the trailer was too wide to pull inline behind my bike. I just purchased a little Kamparoo Sprint and discovered that, when hooked behind the bike, it is narrower than the saddlebags!
I've never had a problem with brakes or handling, but have always had large bikes like Harleys, Goldwings, and Valkyries. The problem with it directly behind the bike is that I now leave four separate tracks on the pavement. It would be very hard to miss a pothole or critter on the road. When the trailer is centered, I just straddle hazards.
I'm not sure if I will leave it behind the bike. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks Mike for the idea of what metal to use. I pull a camper that is 48 inches wide and to get it even with the left saddlebag I had my local welder make an 8 inch jog in it where it comes out of the receiver. It works quite well but like you say I have to calculate which wheel gets to drop into the chuckhole. I have been convinced to try the middle of the rig across the mounts but at a recent rally heard someone say if you don't have a sidecar brake it tends to pull left under hard braking. I am struggling with how to put a brake on the sidecar wheel. Being out in the boonies of Montana it is hard to find a source for parts for the job.

Ralph

check the MC trailer sites, some of the new trailers have elc brakes on them which IMHO would eliminate the need of a sidecar brake if set up right.

That's probably the best way to remedy the situation because the rig stops really well without the camper hooked up. I started to go the trailer brake route last year. I ordered the whole setup for electric brakes from Northern Tool and found that there isn't enough clearance for the brake units to bolt up to the 4-bolt backing plate. the bolts come thru and rub on the swing arm of the camper suspension. Now I don't know what to do, try to get longer axles or cut and weld the swing arm to accommodate the bolts.

I don't fully understand what your saying about the bolts but it would seem that the easiest way to cure that would be to shorten the bolts.

Here's a hitch I made for a pull on the inside sidecar rail.
Square tubing bolted to the sidecar frame tube.

Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars

Shadow, you gave me an idea. Maybe I could cut the bolts off and use thinner nuts that would miss the swingarm or maybe come through from the back side and use less space. Thanks.

Lonnie that looks like a slick setup.

Ralph