I'm a newbie with a 1990 GL1500 and Champion Escort that I am setting up. I purchased the bike with the sidecar unattached (It had been mounted previously) and I'm now attempting to mount and align the chair. The manual calls for 1/4" difference (top to bottom) measured at the rear wheel for lean out. The rear wheel is buried beneath the bags and trunk. What would be a reasonable equivalent measurement to use at the handlebars (bars to ground)?
Also, do I have to jack up the rear end to set the air pressure on the bike rear shock?
Thanks,
Paul
Use a magnetic angle guage on a front rotor (protractor). Wheel straight ahead. Sit on the bike with the sidecar loaded as normal. Guage should read 1 to 2 degrees of leanout for normally crowned roads.
You shouldn't need to do anything but set the air pressure.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
Thanks for the input!
I just took a test ride and the rig just does not want to turn left or right at speed. Too much or too little toe-in? I have no issue with setting the TILT to go straight. Any input would be appreciated.
Paul
Originally written by shakyone on 9/12/2008 10:50 PM
Thanks for the input!
I just took a test ride and the rig just does not want to turn left or right at speed. Too much or too little toe-in? I have no issue with setting the TILT to go straight. Any input would be appreciated.Paul
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
In a nutshell if you think ot lean out or lean in as being the method to correct pulling left or right you will do well. Toe in will typically show up as tire wear if it is too much.
Thanks, Claude. I was hoping that too much or too little toe-in would cause the extreme heavy handling I'm experiencing. After a little research, it appears that I will have to change out the front forks to solve my problem. I was hoping to avoid the expense, but I just don't feel safe at all with the stock forks and worry about the amount of stress placed on them. I anticipated heavy steering going into this-I just didn't realize HOW heavy!
Thanks,
Paul
The fork stress isn't a safety problem. Your sore shoulders could be. Be aware that when you have modified forks to shorten the trail the steering will be similar to power steering on your car with one exception. You will have to help it back to centerpoint. At first there is a tendency for one to oversteer the rig. You'll soon get used to this and relax.
Lonnie
Originally written by shakyone on 9/13/2008 10:10 AM
Thanks, Claude. I was hoping that too much or too little toe-in would cause the extreme heavy handling I'm experiencing. After a little research, it appears that I will have to change out the front forks to solve my problem. I was hoping to avoid the expense, but I just don't feel safe at all with the stock forks and worry about the amount of stress placed on them. I anticipated heavy steering going into this-I just didn't realize HOW heavy!
Thanks,
Paul
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If you are new to sidcaring you may want to give yourself some time in the saddle prior to modifyinmg the front end. You are using muscles that you are not used to using and you are probably a little tense whether you realize it of not.
Technique going into turns can save some effort at the bars. Right handers can be done by accelrating through them which allows the sidecar to want to lag behind. This helps steering.
Left handers can be entered with late braking allowing the sidecar to want to keep going which helps you turn left. If you have a sidecar brake try braking going into a left hander with the wheel that the sidecar brake is not hooked to.
I had asked about how much wheel lead you have for a reason. More lead makes steering more difficult.
