Front fork air pressure,92-1500 SE

Maybe the 1500 GL's don't have front suspension air adjustment (they've got everything else imaginable).
I was listing possibilities of hard front suspension in general, not bike specific.
Sorry if I got you confused. Many other bikes do have it.

Lonnie

Hi:Well don't know if I am confused or not read several things referring to air pressure butno idea how to check it?Tried my locl Honda dealer who said had never heard of problem with the front end on these!!!And couldn't work on it with the S/C on it anyway!Have you looked at Clymers manual,Lot cheaper than the factory one I think,haven't been to inpressed with there auto manuals but probably much better than the owners manual which doesn't deal with these questions!Thanks again for your reply

The front forks on the GL1500 have air adjustment. Turn the handlebars to one side or the other. You will see a plastic cap at the top of each fork tube. Remove the cap by unscrewing it counter clockwise. The air valve is located beneath the cap. Be careful how much air pressure you use. While I can't remember the recommended pressure, I know that it is low.

Hi;Thanks for the attempts did now figure out how to get that cap off.Actually just snapped on on this bike and under it is the big allen head I have seen mentioned.Apparently lot of variousn in the different models.I have to get a manual guess willjust order one of the Clymer ones hear they are pretty good.Thanks much for your attempts to help me!!!

Its a pain to try to adjust 2 different supension legs to the same pressure value, that never will stay the same over time.
I'd give a hack on optics and simply get a joint hose like you use for motocross bikes. Then you always have the same pressure on both legs and can easily adjust at every gas station. I guess I paid 10-12$ for mine many years ago and simply used a cable tye for to fix the filling valve to the handle bar for easy access.
Regards
Sven Peter

Many of the Hondas have a 16# maximum air pressure limit on the front forks.
If you get the access figured out and find the (Shrader) air valves be sure and keep the pressure at or below the recommended figure for your model bike to keep from blowing out the fork seals.
Don't use an air compresser to fill the fork tubes. The lower settings on the pressure guages are seldom close to reality.
Use a pump designed for this purpose which is a low pressure hand pump that can disconnect without losing air pressure (they are not cheap).
One can get the correct pressure sooner or later with a bicycle pump but you chance over filling the forks in order to get it disconnected before losing your pressure.

Lonnie

hi, the air pressure in your front forks should NOT exceed 6 psi and lonnie told ya right, be real careful how you adjust the pressure or you will be replacing seals,best bet is to buy the pump and gauge combo that progressive makes and is sold at venco and other parts houses that cater to wing riders, while you are being so nice to yourself go to www.illustratedpowersports.com and order the dvd's for the gl1500 made by stu oltman(wing guru), they are the best investment you are going to make when it comes to working on wings, even a dumbass like me can do just about any repair using those dvd's, good luck mike aka moonlite on the the road to bc

Robert, I just saw this thread. The pump for those forks looks like a hypodermic syringe. I should have one around here somewhere, but they tend to be pretty flimsy. It takes almost nothing to go from 0 to too much. Use a small bicycle pump. One pump will be more than enough.
As far as books, save your pennies and buy the Factory book. They come up on ebay frequently for less than the new Haynes book will cost you. I've used them all. All Haynes books are good for is kindling.
I worked for an independent motorcycle shop for a while. We had factory books for the stuff we saw often, but Haynes and Clymer books for unusual or uncommon bikes. Invariably, when you need it most it will either be glaringly incorrect or it will say "At this point it is best to take your bike to a professional mechanic." Clymer is much better than Haynes, but factory is 1000% better than either.
Mike

hi, forgot to add last night, if you want the factory service manual, which is the absolute best in printed manuals as sidecar mike said, you can buy it online at www.helminc.com for $60.00, it covers everything you could ever need, i have one that i bought 2yrs ago and it covers everything, i use it at home, when i travel as i am doing now i take the aforementioned dvd's from stu oltman and a portable dvd player, they are less cumbersome and do not take up very much room, and as i said in my previos post they show every little detail actually being performed by stu, so ANYONE, even me,can get the job done, very comprehensive,do not waste your money on clymer or haynes books, check out the helm book it is so detailed helen keller could rebuild her own muffler bearings. keep a cool tool and good luck. mike aka moonlite on the road to bc

Hi Bob,

You might want to join this Goldwing forum http://www.goldwingfacts.com/ , it has a lot of good info. Also, this site http://goldwing.soylentgeek.com/ will allow free download of factory shop manuals for Goldwings. I downloaded the 1994 GL1500 manual to use for my 1993.

HI;Well thanks for all the replys.I only found a large Allen fitting on top of fork?Took bike down to a HOnda dealer who looked at it lifted the fairing up about 6" let go and watched it fallback down.Said fork springs are collapsd.Sounded reasonable to me!Talked to Progressive they gave me the number for the spring they said would be correct!Guess maybe should try that next.Weird deal no lites on S/C trying to check must have lost ground but like they laid out wireing then glued carpet over everything really makes it nice to trace wires.Is a Champion Dayton 2+2

hi, make sure you have a SE model, the SE and ASPENCADE models had the valve's for adding air to the forks, NOT THE INTERSTATE model if memory is working right, also if it has already had progressive springs installed they will not carry any air in the forks, progressive springs is definately the way to go, i do not know anyone who does not switch to them after they get 30-40,000 miles on their sickles, also do yourself a favor and call or email jim at venco wings and talk to him about your project(866-648-3626) and no i am not affiliated with them, just a dummy that has relied on his help more than once, and on the plus side, his prices are good and he has never minded my dumb questions. good luck mike aka moonlite on the road to bc, leaving the popo agie wilderness today so no more computer til i get back to delaware

Robert, I just saw this thread. The pump for those forks looks like a hypodermic syringe. I should have one around here somewhere, but they tend to be pretty flimsy. It takes almost nothing to go from 0 to too much. Use a small bicycle pump. One pump will be more than enough.
As far as books, save your pennies and buy the Factory book. They come up on ebay frequently for less than the new Haynes book will cost you. I've used them all. All Haynes books are good for is kindling.
I worked for an independent motorcycle shop for a while. We had factory books for the stuff we saw often, but Haynes and Clymer books for unusual or uncommon bikes. Invariably, when you need it most it will either be glaringly incorrect or it will say "At this point it is best to take your bike to a professional mechanic." Clymer is much better than Haynes, but factory is 1000% better than either.
Mike

Mike is right about the book. I found a copy of the factory manual for my bike on disc from E-bay. I put an old computer in the shop.It gets far more use than my Clymer manual, and I can't get grease on the pages.
Also, he's right about the air compresssor. I used to over inflate the forks and then bleed down to the correct pressure. The seals lasted 3 years, but I now have to replace them.I'm sure they would last longer if I had not exceeded the reccomended pressure.