I just bought a 1995 Ural Tourist. The last owner upgraded it with a new 750cc engine with CV carbs, new gearbox, and electrical upgrades including electric start and 35 amp alternator. It has about 500 KM on the upgrade, 17000 KM total. I got it for $4,700. I've only had it for 3 days, but I'm in love already. She, unfortunately, came to me minus any manuals. I was trying to adjust the brakes, and when i got to the rear, i ran into a problem. With the rear jacked up and gearbox in neutral, the rear wheel will not spin. When i try to spin it, the propeller shaft spins. It feels like it's spinning the engine, like it's coming up against compression. If i start the engine with the rear off the ground and gearbox in neutral, the rear tire does not spin. With the engine off and the bike on the ground gearbox in neutral and pushing the rig forward and backwards the propeller shaft spins and it feels like it's coming up against compression, spinning the engine. In all these conditions, pulling in the clutch does not free up the rear wheel. So, is this normal? If so, how do you adjust the rear brake? If this is not right, where should i look to fix it? It seems to drive okay, although I don't really have any reference. Any help is appreciated. I look forward to the day that i can be of some help to someone in these forums. But for now, I know nothing and need some guidance. thanks
Carl,
Go to www.wagnerscycle.com . I beleive that they sell as manual on CD for your rig. If not, just ask for help and swear to buy parts from them in the future. They are really nice folks and very knowledgable about Urals. Good luck!
Both those URLs work just fine.
I'm still amazed at this internet stuff and Al is right both url's work. Wagner's also has a great yahoo group.These guys know everything Ural.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/wagnerscycle/
Originally written by Joyce on 7/18/2007 6:19 PM
I'm still amazed at this internet stuff and Al is right both url's work. Wagner's also has a great yahoo group.These guys know everything Ural.
It seems to me that a few years ago Flicka was having a problem with a web page developer who tried to hold the name hostage so they registered the dot US name instead of giving in to him. They must have got things straightened out.
This is a good place for a lesson. If you ever have reason to have a website, whether it be a business, organization, or personal one and you choose to have someone else set it up for you INSIST ON OWNING THE NAME!
If they say you can't, find another developer.
OK I've turned in my application to join Wagner's forums, still awaiting approval. If anyone has any ideas on the problem i mentioned in the first post, if it even is a problem, I'd appreciate it greatly.
the propeller shaft will spin, that's not a problem. Find out if the brake is dragging, back off the adjuster a lot and see what changes. Could be a problem in the FD, like a seriously bad bearing, but is probably just a dragging brake. Adjusting Ural brakes is a black art. Done well, you can lock 'em up. Done badly, you need to plan your stops with MapQuest.
Russian Iron Motorcycle Club http://www.russianiron.com/ is a good site, has a huge technical archive, and is easier to navigate and less populated with fools than the Wagner site. Also an new one, http://sovietsteeds.com/forums/ a spin-off from Russian Iron.
Check out Bill Glaser's site below and get in contact with him for your specific brake questions on the Ural. The site will show you some basics on the brake adjustments. Additionally, the IMZ site has free downloads for both owner's manuals and parts manuals. IThe owner manual there does indeed cover adjusting the rear brake, but gives squat into on adjusting the sidecar brake). The CDs are useful in some areas and a total waste of time in others. Any Ural dealership can fix you up with the CDs and even a manual, but I'd be cautious over just which dealer I trusted to give me the best info on adjusting the Ural brakes.
Wagner's site is good, as is Russian Iron and, of course, the IMZ site. There is even a new russiansteeds site that has just been activated, but I don't have the addy to it. Your problem in making the adjustments to the rear brake is that the sidecar brake and the rear brake need to keep the rig in a straight line. You can be chasing your tail in not making that happen. Someone said "black art" and I suspect they are somewhat accurate.
As a mattter of fact, Bill is helping me with some sidecar brake problems I am having at present. I should be relatively simple, but no way in the world it has been so far.
Send me a personal email at coupe1942@yahoo.com, and I'll share pics or get you in contact with Bill. His email can be accessed in the member area of the IMZ site. Check out his site, as it will certainly be a help to you.
Bill Glaser's web site and Unofficial Ural Manual:
Good luck with it,
Huey
If you have cable break, what I assume as it has my Jawa and a "neighbour's" ISCH. It sometimes happens that the routing of the cable puts presure on the cable as the suspension moves:
Then it is high time to rerout the cable.(you might have the sidecar start to break in a fast left hand bend)
I like to test the breaks lifting the scissor arm with a jack , somebody sitting on the bike and in the sidcar and checking if the wheel spins free before I make a test drive.
Normally then the breaks are still way too tight and on a big parking lot I try with standard load until both breaks work equal.
Sven
Unlike the Jawa and Dnepr, the URAL uses a bellcrank and rods to actuate the sidecar brake.
(I have 5 of these setups hanging from my shop wall from URALS that have been converted to disc brakes.)
Lonnie
Originally written by Hack'n on 7/20/2007 11:37 AM
Unlike the Jawa and Dnepr, the URAL uses a bellcrank and rods to actuate the sidecar brake.
(I have 5 of these setups hanging from my shop wall from URALS that have been converted to disc brakes.)
Lonnie
................................................................
There are also shops with various sidecar brake mechinisms hanging on the walls because they were felt not to be worth the aggrivation.
Hackn and Claude, those brakes for sure on strong bikes were way to weak.
I wouldn't wait much neither for improvement on a big bike to got to disc ont back and SC.
With our hills I have to open and clean out the breaks frequently even on the road. Minimum every 3000km/2000mi. What recalls that a cheap bike needs a mecanics as driver for to get good milage. And the big ones have for some obvious reason their big $-tag.
Sven
