Another project. 2013 Junak 121, Velorex tub and custom frame
Started another project. I Announced it a week ago. Some guy found my forum posts and wants me to make him a rig. Budget project as always. Ok, no problem, let's mount.
Tub's floor was in horrible condition. Someone was using it to transport bricks or something equally abrassive and heavy:
Some sheet metal, grooved for rigidity. Crazy Riveting Night, then some fiberglass mat and resin inside:
New custom frame, based on Russian style, but with my own changes. Tube diameters like in typical lighweight cars. No tub mountings yet. Damper from chinese 125cc, identical like in my own rig. Mudguard with added wall:
Concept View 1, with additional 5 litres tank. Very rigid 2-sided swingarm, one side suspended. Proven patent.
Concept View 2. Mudguard from CZ175, wheel from Yamaha YBR 125, with drum brake.
And some wooden floor for luggage. This will not be a passenger car:
Tub will be painted black to match bike's color.
Ant trat's the hacked bike:
Junak, legendary Polish bikes brand, bought by importer of Chinese bikes. But not so bad bikes now known to younker bikers as Junak.
Quite a custom restoration project, Igor.
Most would have chucked that abused body.
The light bike frame offers a bit of a sub-frame challenge, but I'm sure you'll get there OK.
Lonnie

Hello Igor...shall I send you my underbowl mold?
Looks you could use it for to get rid of the flimsy plastic in more then one rig.
My underbowl looked worse then that one when I dismantled a reduction gear motor...when I came back from my friends hydraulic press all shafts were looking out of the bottom. :O
My fuel can is mounted between bike and rig in the back and still believe it is kept safer there then on the front out side.
As small tip you could mount a few folding / swiveling net hooks so the lugguage can be kept in the back when traveling with little lugguage.
Good luck with this proyect.
Sven
Lonnie. Yes, a subframe will be added. Some mix of these patents:
but under engine mounted like this:
using driver's footpegs. They are identical with these on last photo, because a bike is mechanically copy of Suzuki GN.
So this will be a big "engine guard frame" with two tubes going to footpeg mounts, with footpegs as rear ends. And of course with some reinforcements/rigiders. The first photo is taken from my own bike, which is now equipped with engine guard, the whole set acts as subframe. In this project I will make it something lighter, as one sophisticated subframe.
Rear lowet mount will be made from passenger's footpeg mount, but reinforced in all planes. Something like this:
This photo is my own bike after "Big Rebuild" (some photos under the link) . Footpeg mount is reinforced by upper tube and with thinner strut mounted more horizontal to make the whole mounting more rigid in both vertical and horizontal plane. Works perfectly, 13.000 kilometers without problems, so I find this patent proven)
Sven, you have a mold to make sheetmetal copy of lower half of Velorex 562 body? Master...
Good tip with gasoline can. Safer and mounted rear from "the magic balance line" that connects front wheel and right wheel. I don't use an additional tank, only small 2 liters "black hour reserve" in tools trunk.
Luggage hooks, as other "details" as aesthetics and cosmetics is not my role in this projects, but i will give this tip to bike owner.
Thanks

Hello Igor,
when the shafts had to "inspect the road and decided to stay inside the sidecar" a kayak builder (his Grandgrandgrandfather fled from Germany in 1871) helped me to recover the original form and make a master negative copy of the plastic underbowl for to make a new fibreglass bowl. That became much stronger then the original flimsy plastic. Plus I reenforced it with a wooden beam molded into the fibre glass (at the same time seat pad base). The original mounting holes stayed visible and fitted perfectly.The mounting I did with huge metal/rubber pads from both sides, now the force is fed onto the body on huge aras and not on spots.
My only fear is that Velorex might work with different size mold for their 562 sidecar. (we had that trouble at STS where we used to build radio adapter for to convert Bendix King hand held radios into car mobile stations...the minimum difference in radio molds could throw over a whole 2,5 million $ investment and 3 year work...there I learned the hard way...First step first!)
So: Yes I have a negative mold for a 2001 #562 Velorex sidecars underbowl, but for fibreglass reproduction...The most imortant thing to check would be the circunference at the upper parting line.
I have it in my shop for years and could not decide to convert it into a garden pond hoping that it would serve for somebody else.
But within Costa Rica no hope to find a friend for it. (thera must be some fotos of the proyect here on this forum)
If someone is interested I would happily pass th mold over to him. (transport and customs might become more expensive then the mold)
Sven
Sven

Hello Igor, here are the photos with the details.
http://www.sidecar.com/mbbs22/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=7589&posts=3&mid=46824&highlight=mold+Velorex&highlightmode=1&action=search#M46824
Feel free to use as many ideas you want to.
The metal / rubber mounting pads are simple to do. A 6mm steel plate with chamfer. Oring diam 3 or 4mm from the string around the edge as distance keeper and fill out the internal cavity with polyurethane...to that time there was no fast curing polyurethane available, so it needed a week to cure, now the 30minute polyurethane should cure in a night. I used the same polyurethane for rust protection and edge protection...still ok many km of abuse later.
The old sheet metal seat rests sucked so now the simply snaps with the the studs into the holes and is well positioned. Backup plate in stainless steel on top of the old plywood, did not bother yet.
Sven

Sad to see Willie Willies now badly rusted compared to that time... Do not let arrange your wife a birthday party .... you need 5 men for to push a Willies like that... he passed several years in the rain, as we did not have so many helpers to push him back into the dry shelter. (not o dry neither)
Sven
Great work, Sven. I have never worked with fiberglass nd molds. Only some repairs with 100 grams of resin and a square meter of mat. Patt situation with your mold. It's still usable but transporting it over the ocean... Dimensions could change over years of use of molds. Most of Velorexes in Poland are from '70s - early '80s, maybe some single ones from early 90s but I don't think so. As from 1989 we took oportunity to buy cheaper cars without special gov. permissions, motorcycles and sidecars became a synonym of poverty for teen years. And for many years it was a shame to have such "instead of car". So they are rather old, and made in different technology regime. Also European and American molds may vary, because this is not cruical for them to be compatible.
I repair this "kayak" with combination of sheetmetal, rivets/bolts and resin-mat "sculpture", also reinforcing it. As it will not be a passenger car (rather winter support and some light luggage space), it should last years. Thanks for this patent:
Is 125cc going to be able to pull that hack?

Igor, the ocasion you have again a seperated Velorex boat in hand measure with caution the top circumference of the lower bowl, I will check myself and we can have a look how close we are.
For now good luck with the proyect.
In Germany in the 60tees and 70tees motorcycles had such a bad image as you describe too, therefore disappeared all those brands. There are only very few "windfaces" and those will keep up the spirit. Watching your work seems You will become an eminence in bringing knowledge and spirit into a future generation. Continue like that.
Best wishes.
Sven
Sven, thanks a lot. Just when I get another Velorex body and will have it dismantled, i will measure circumference.
Some people find me a sidecar expert, which I don't feel yet (especially in heavier hacks) Or will never feel like expert.
Phelonius, no problem. My 125cc pulled such hack for two years, now it's 150cc. In Philipines, India etc, there are 125cc sidecar TAXIs based on Honda CG/CGL or Suzuki GN. With two seats in sidecar, roof for passengers and driver. Onlyy the speed isn't impressive :)Normally 125cc with such sidecar and some stuff inside (not a passenger) pulls at 50-65 kilometers per hour on flat road, depends on weather and wind.
Yesterday I made eyebolts for the project. Theye're hard to find, you can only buy used ones, nobody makes them now. Last year this lack goaded me to develop repeatable method of making them. Made many tests, tried fewteen welding procedures, then crashtested produced eyebolts. Now I have dimensions, "special tool" and technique. Separate for M12(1/2") and M14 (9/16") bolts. Mild steel "eye" and 8.8 part-threaded bolt, which length can vary from 30 to 200 milimeters, depending on where I need to use them. I always set them supported by whole head, never stiching out from nest, to ensure rigidity

I guess DIN 444B is too flimsy for your purpose, There should be a good norm part supplier in Katowice, (WΓΌrth, Hoffmann, Blohm....or others.) I would dive into their catalogue or better ask their oldest stock worker or smartest counter sales person.
Or a tractor spare part supplier.
For machinery spares I did my own eye bolts quite often, when there are no suppliers, but often Norm part suppliers have in their back rooms a surprising out of inventory stock that only those old Wiesel know well.
A indutrial heavy duty part will last normally more then a welded part.
Several times I went to turn out of solid crome molly steel bar (4140) and mill down the flats, still not as solid as forged steel, but better then welded cow's meet.
Good luck.
Sven
I wanted to buy some DIN444 just to try if they can work supported by turned element (head support) but they are available only in 4.8 class...
Bigger parts suppliers (orspecialized bolt suppliers) don't have anythyng similar to what we need in sidecars. And even if they have something "non-mainstream" (not standard stock bought b everybody), they wouldn't like to sell you one or seven pieces. Purchase a bunch of 100 or 25 kilograms, and you can buy anything. Witnin Norms, of course. Nothing special.
For lightweight hack, my eyebolts are enough. For heavier, I would rather purchase making of them as monolith from better steeland forging.
Agricultural parts suppliers also don't have such bolts. Or, to be precise, they have, but applicable in Gulliver's hack. Normal hack can carry such parts, but not be built on them
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