I've always had it hidden in the deep recesses, an urge to give it a try. Having ridden for 42 of my 47 years and scores of bikes of all types I was finally bored enough to turn it loose. Fate had a hand. From a flippant remark to a find by a friend much later. $250 worth of trouble, alas as they say "priceless". Only a small amount of glasswork needed. Appears someone decided to add some strength in a spot or two but no break repairs. Odd, the tub has been raised 3" on some channel iron. We'll sort all that later. Seems if my research is correct that it is an early "California Sidecar Companion" model. Shockingly they list replacement parts as still available for a price (another and greater $hock).
The garage contains a Cafe'd 72' R60/5 SWB Toaster and a 77' R75/7 with bags and a small shield. One white and one black. Which way to jump (first)? Perhaps that too will come later.
For now I have to unteather it from that stone dead CB350 and walk numerious circles around it rubbing my chin. Indeed, what have I done?
Welcome to the world of Sidecaring. Keep us up to date please.:-)
Thanks for the confirmation. The tub looks O.K. on initial inspection. Have not yet removed the old squirrel nest. The seat bucket too looks useable. Apears to be all there with solid mounts. I did note the previous owner welded a mount to the old CB's frame. Mental note on that point, might watch it.
I know I could have bought a well used Velo for about a grand or so but restoring something left for dead just seems more interesting. This has more of a bullet shape too, I kind of like it.
Calif. SC seems more geared to dealer outlets and trikes looking at their website. A local dealer is said to be sponsor, I'll check them for parts. Some upolstery, a windscreen, hubcap, and some glass and paint should get it close to looking fair cosmetically. Who knows what lurks under however. I have a lot to learn.
Yes that strut in front is "bent" to clear that header, from what I can see so far. The welds look a bit Vo-tech so I'll check them and clean them up. Lots of work to do. Any and all tips welcome.
Changed my mind after looking at the chassis.
Looks like an Spirit Eagle with the clamp style mounts, frame size and configuration. The CSC wheel threw me off. The American Eagle and Eagle Spirit both used the early CSC body mold but had lighter frames and mounts were the two piece clamp style. Most had chrome spoked wheel and plated frames.
Lonnie
Lonnie I think you are right, good eye. I saw one that was said to be 1972-74 vintage, looks to be the same frame and mounts. I hope that is a good thing. I wanted a lighter rig for my R60/5. You know, SWB and drum brakes. It's scary enough so a chair couldn't make it much worse?! The R75 might be a better tug though. Disc font, longer, wider bars.... Got to mess with it first and get my feet wet. I hope to be using it light general duty, smaller folks and just gear. Wanted to try something different.
Thanks so much for your input, I think you steered me right.
The 1st owner of my 1960 Willies gave me a well worth warning.
"Allthough I give you this car for less then the number plate fees to pay, this car is not at all thought for a poor.
Keep in mind an old car is just as an old house: You put (lots of) money and work into it and it still stays the same old house!"
After 30.000km, many further repairs and an accident, poor Willy Willies is resting now since Hurricane Mitch (1998) when I pulled out its last (deeply dug in) truck from my own farm.
It is waiting for my daughter to relive it for to learn how to drive and fix it.
Simply be aware, it will take money and time and somewhere still might be some hidden damage that might awake you from dreaming the crude way .
...
Hopefully not the same way my Norton Comando did with me in Death Valley 1988
Sven
First off, Willys? Commando? Sir are you not frightened of anything? My goodness I'm in serious company. I'd personally want no part of either any farther than I'd care to walk back. Given the choice I'd take a good Mule every time. LOL!!!
A friend pointed out something I hope you will find interesting. The "pink arrow" points to a welded up hole! It would seem that is the old Axle mounting point that would change the suspension geometry considerably (see blue arrow for current axle positon). It also explains the channel iron and raising the tub about 3" (note red arrows and frame reinforcements). Didn't notice either that if this is all true the tub is 3" higher and about 3" farther forward. Hummmmmmm.
I'm not one to quickly re-think the considerable Hillbilly engineering that went into this modification. (We are in Arkansas after all) Things like this are not done lightly nor without reason. Perhaps it is a good thing, an improvement! This will have to be studied closely. Thoughts?
The kind fellow was spot on as I found chrome plating under the frame tubing and on the mounts! Seems it is an old vintage Spirit chair. Thanks again. I'll keep you fellows informed. Hope to disconnect it tomorrow and look into more.
Scott,
you may call it calculated risk.
You do get afraid when all 4 chains spin and the truck still goes backward,
or when you have to tell you nephew to get out of the chair to sit on top of the tub-"When I tell you to jump-then jump off!", because all 3 wheels are blocked and the rig still smears downhill beside a 300m cliff.
But riding a vintage bike or car is much more delighting and skill training then anything else.
You learn much more then in University.
The smiles and helpers are on your side.
With each foto you show, more I get afraid you better wait for something where no Daniel Düsentrieb made Mickey Mouse engineering.
I do not like the geometry, pipe clamps, welding on frames, nor brittle old fart Aluminium wheels.
After having blown away a water hydrant with a new Aluminuim wheel in 83 on a solo I guess I know what I am talking about.
Best wishes
Sven
Sage advice I do think. But I have a surplus of faith and a terrible urge to just see. The bike and chair are about the same age and the bike is worn out, chair has seen better days too. I may even try to find the previous owner via the bike title. Just to see if I can gleen some info. I can find a spoke wheel which is what I'd prefer. But I'd much favor waiting to find a used one that paying that crazy high tarriff for new. If all else fails I can just take it back to stock specs. that were once well established.
It's not that conplicated. Just some welded tubing and a tub. The fitting and steering are anotehr matter. I have NO experience like you of course but have ridden bikes and trikes. Go slow and if don't feel right or hurts stop. Right? I want to get it mobile then see what I think. If I like what's there I may fly it a bit. Ultimately when I get it comfortable I hope to paint and restore it to a worthy finish. Perhaps a good frame powdercoat too. A long term and fun project.
The sense of adventure and fun of the unknown are the lure. Just keep the ideas and nuggets of insight coming.
I love threads like this! I too, just recently was given the opportunity to "bring back" a '74 Velorex 560. And, to compound the confusion, I'm going to hang it off a '73 Bonneville! I never would have gone there but I have the "total support" of the C. Stanley Motorsport gang to lend a hand. Or several! Enjoy the process Scott
Dough, with Claude you are in good hands.
Scott, find you somebody to guide you down the way and you will not have the awaking in the green as I had 24 years ago....
As said the crutial part is the hooking the s/c to the bike and there experience of somebody like Loonie or Claude is worth every buck.
Sven
Scott, at the risk of stepping on some site rules; give Claude a call (shameless plug...). Even at your distance, his experience lends itself to an extreme wealth of information and guidance.
OK now it gets real. I have to look and ponder what in the world and why? First off the wheel is a Harley Sportster item 3/4" axle. So a chrome spoker will be easy to find and pretty reasonable. The old chassis is a Spirit with chrome or nickel under the black paint. A good blasting and some powder will get it pretty, but later. The welds can use some help cosmetically at the least. Big question is why the cutting torch treatment to the old axle and a relocate? It lowered the chassis (3"?) and then they raised the tub (3"?) and moved it foreward too (3"?). I wonder why? At least there is a pattern of 3. Strangely I find that a teensy bit comforting. Consistency, a spark of hope for intelligent reasoning.
Now do I get it back to stock and start fresh or try the mods? It looks sound and O.K. But as you know that's only part of the story. I noted the CB350 has the rear top mounting welded to the bike frame (obviously it was moving around) and one other mounting point had shifted at one point (or perhaps purposely moved, we hope) about an inch. The mounted tire looks like it tracked well, not worn crazy.
I can re-do some glass on the tub, upolstery and interior etc. paint, shield, some lighting, trim etc. etc. That's the fun easy part. Mounting solid on the BM whould not be too bad. Geting it to tug in a straight line....
I think I'll give that expert fellow a look up, just for piece of mind.
Do you reckon the channel iron was added simply for ballast? Or was the frame lowered to better match the CB350?
Lee
MB5+TW200+CRF250L+GTV300+INT650
XL883R w/Texas Ranger Sidecar
Zuma 50F + Burgman w/Texas Sidecar<Mrs. SwampFox
watching I guess all those movements are for the reasons you pointed out.
the former owner had to take far back the frame to match it with the 350.
What will you use as work horse.?
If it lines up reasonable I would NOT tear down and reweld, only if everything is too bad workmanship.
I'd not like to weeken the metal more then it is already.
The front botom straight lever I would reinforce.
(possibly after a while substitute the two parts (which can turn) of it against one solid matching part)
and put a triangle into the base plate for the front upper rod.
On the back points I would think of some way to evade a twist of the pipe.
These are ideas of a tool machine repairer. not at all a specialist in setting up rigs.
Stock solid rig frames break! Some movement must be left in the design..
Mount the tub on rubber. I used polyurethane and on the inside patches lifted with o-ring stock giving me some distance and filled the insede with roof polyurethane sealant. I have much less wear and squeeking now. (metal,rubber, fibre, rubber, metal. sa used machines silent blocks)
Sven
