Sidecarist needs HELP

Great output from Drew! 😎 

We'll keep our paws crossed it is the battery.  Nice fresh lump of lead is a good for the whole rig.

Here's a video I made for a guy I was selling my 1200 to several years ago. It's basically SHOWING what Drew is SAYING,,,,lol. 

And what I do is put the choke on to keep it reved up to around 3000rpm while checking voltage.

https://youtu.be/uYgwoe_AUm4?si=fgNP84LD_uxBu2_w

I hear it said all the time that they should charge at 14 + but the 3 1500 I have owned I have never had one to charge at 14 consistently like my 1800 does. a good 13.5 or so at idle and can push 14 at higher RPM. Just remember something let the battery die, check your alternator good. I had a DB electronic that would show great charge at idle but would fall off to nothing running down the road. it was only 8 months old. there is no better little add on than a volt meter for your bike. I bought a cheap 12 dollar one installed it after I lost my alternator crossing Bear Tooth pass and from that time on I was always able to know the status of my battery & alternator charging. 

OK here's where i am at right now, he who must be obeyed also has a copy =)

Battery is new as of jan 15 bought by me  it is NOCO NLP20 Group 20 600CCA Lithium.

I went for a look today Wednesday:

Voltage before starting wing 13.1 voltage after starting 12.7  watched as voltage dropped to 11.7 wing cut out.
I could hear a clicking as though the wing was trying to start ignition was off

Sprayed ign and starter switch and kill switch with WD40,
Tightened all visible connections. Accessory panel was added by last owner fitted with fuses. One accessory lead was very rough with crimped connectors, etc removed it. will replace if i need it

I waggled the big red fused lead above the battery and pushed in the connections at the relay in i noted that dash lights came on then went back off.
The relay is not bolted down just loose. Relay number is JD1914 12V 40 amp
Blue lead with red connector connected to nothing
I have forwarded photos to help my wording.

Noted low battery warning on charger currently recharging  and will repeat start and note results

Ahh Lithium is known for the cliff. Works great, dives suddenly off the cliff.  That drop to 11.7 would concern me a little.  With one caveat.  If the starter was grinding it might drop that low.

Did it return to 12ish when you stopped grinding or did it stay at 11.7.  If the answer is stayed at 11.7 that's another tick in the battery's the problem column - even though that battery is only 5 months old.

I think you're narrowing down the culprit to your electron holder.

That said, ACEInSav, makes a good point.  If you're battery is dead after only 5 months that points to an alternator.

If it were me, I would pull the battery out.  Charge it. Take it off the charger. Check it in 3 days.

During that time I would find a cheap voltmeter and connect it to the bike.  Best way is direct to the battery.

If the battery is holding the charge, put it in the bike and do a series of short trips, preferably ones where you can get up to medium speeds.

Watch that volt meter.  If it's really inconsistent, look to the alternator.  Keep in mind, the meter drops at idle and picks up at speed.  The meter should stay above 13.1 and below 15.8.

If the battery isn't hold a charge, I would get a new battery and do the same short runs, eye on the volt meter thing.

No grinding from the starter wing just died then a couple of clicks afterwards

Just tried again reading 13.68 ran till temp got very hot (wing started whistling) Turned motor off at12.65 battery was dropping but much slower. 12.95 when turned off. i do still have the old battery i may try that tomorrow.

before having enough for the day i started the wing at 12.85 stopped/cut out in about 5 min at 10.75. 3 clicks with each click the dash lights came on and went off again.

If I was Steve, I'd be pissed off that alternator decided to take a crap right when I needed the bike to get somewhere on time.  But if it turns out to be something simple and not the alternator, then I would be REALLY pissed off!

@aceinsav Now that is a good idea, if i can fit one i would know for sure what was kaput right? Any particular type?

@ned No point in that really. 1, i got to stay in a pretty good hotel for a night. 2, I made it home safely. 3, i really enjoyed the ride =) 4, Better planning for next time. 5, Do not give myself such a tight time frame. 6, Mr Sam had a lot of fun and fuss =)

I taught people to break tasks and ideas down into tiny pieces if needed so they begin to 'get it' and learn  (or not) what was good.

What it also does is help to keep you in a good space mentally and emotionally and for sure i have needed every bit of that to come out on top =)

@none 

Posted by: @none

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I waggled the big red fused lead above the battery and pushed in the connections at the relay in i noted that dash lights came on then went back off.

Steve,  the fact that the dash lights flicker when wiggling the big red wire is a concerning.  I think you want to pursue this a little further, with gentle wiggling until you figure out exactly what is intermittent in the connection.

Also worth chasing the grounding point from battery neg.  If this is loose, bad things happen.

Might also be worth checking the connector to the alternator.  The older wings (way prior to yours) had a tendency for this connector to fail.  If it is a little loose or has some corrosion, it could be a troublemaker.

Sounds like you are making progress on diagnosis.  It is always fun to debug a prior owner's wiring mods!

Good luck.  If I can help, just ask.  Pics of the wiring are helpful.  Maybe a longer shot or two would give some more clues.

Steve, there sure seems to be a lot going on with the positive battery terminal.

What does the big red wire with the fuse holder go to?  Relay panel?  How is the fuse?

What does the small red wire go to?

What all does the relay panel power up?  What would happen (what would you loose) if you at least temporarily took it out of the the circuit and just ran with the original positive terminal connected to the battery, with nothing else connected?

I would vote for simplifying the wiring while diagnosing, then adding stuff back in, if it still serves your purposes.

Sidecar Willie wants to see a picture of Sam.