set-up
well I got the Triumph and the Texas ranger set just about right. Now I have problem's with the Triumhp. I really hope I don't need to pull the sidecar. I don't seam to be able to just bolt them right back on and they or right like everyone else. Life is not fair some of the time. I think I'm going to ride my Harley for a while.Rudyr

Sorry to hear about your troubles Rudy. What type of problems with the Triumph? On the Texas sidecar mounts, you "should" be able to remove the 2 bolts thru the underneath Heim joints and the 2 bolts on the top side of the upper struts without altering the alignment, as nothing "should" move out of place. I haven' t yet tried it on our rigs yet tho.
Lee
MB5+TW200+CRF250L+GTV300+INT650
XL883R w/Texas Ranger Sidecar
Zuma 50F + Burgman w/Texas Sidecar<Mrs. SwampFox
As long as you do not change the sidecar struts length and don't move the motorcycle frame mounts, a well aligned sidecar will go back on without any change in alignment.
The clevis ends or the upper struts can be rotated slightly for ease of separation as long as they are reset in their original positions and retightened after mounting.
Lonnie

Hello Lonnie,
strange that with my Velorex I have so much play in the fittings, that without lossening the bolts and jacking up the main s/c frame I get a complete different behaviour in riding.
The little tweeking within the bolt gaps do make a difference allthough in theory everything should just bolt back on. (See comment in roads to go: Ride happy as a cow, but don't ask the cowboy!) Since then I prefer to have Fernando making my alignments..... That way I get less medical bills then I pay him.
Sven
Hi Sven,
I've found that the vertical eyebolts for the upper struts can compress the sleeves in the frame after some time and they will get some slack. Even sloppy if not maintained.
All of the castellated nuts are only good once for a snug fit. If loosened and retightened to cotter pin fit they don't have the same torque the second time around (more movement).
On my own rigs I replace them with Nylock nuts so they can be tightened securely without the need to line up holes.
Lonnie
Hack'n - 3/16/2010 9:33 PM
On my own rigs I replace them with Nylock nuts so they can be tightened securely without the need to line up holes.
Lonnie
Nylock nuts work great but keep in mind they are meant to be one time use only and then be replaced when they are removed as the nylon insert that does the locking is damaged in use. Saying that, many people use them over and over again and I have not seen an problem with it, so far. Myself, I use them a couple of times max before I replace them.
Larry

I am looking for a work horse now for 3 years, but the needed contence of the wallet did not appear yet.
I allways thought about reusing the sidecar for the new bike. After playing with the idea of a KLR650 I get slowly to the conviction, that the velorex 560 is way too small and light for such a combination. Even with the Jawa and ballast it tried to flip at the entrance of the service station a few moments ago. Imagine a tall KLR.
Useing the grey material in the hay chamber there must come some better idea. A design of my own taste?...
Best regards
Sven
They use them on KLR's here with the later Tour models. Ballast still helps.
I've even seen a couple of 565 Tours on Beemer 1200 GS Adventures.
Lonnie
Peter Pan - 3/17/2010 7:46 AM
I am looking for a work horse now for 3 years, but the needed contence of the wallet did not appear yet.
I allways thought about reusing the sidecar for the new bike. After playing with the idea of a KLR650 I get slowly to the conviction, that the velorex 560 is way too small and light for such a combination. Even with the Jawa and ballast it tried to flip at the entrance of the service station a few moments ago. Imagine a tall KLR.Useing the grey material in the hay chamber there must come some better idea. A design of my own taste?...
Best regards
Sven
I don't get it. KLRs need a light car. A Velorex isn't much lighter than my Sputnik and it's a great match for the KLR.

Hello Vernon,
I like your videos and the mountain area where you live. (Here we have it even steeper, weter and way warmer in winter.)
The sputnik is way higher, minimum 10cm wider and at least 25kg heavier.
That does make a difference.
Specially when you love strawling through the high mountain range. Then the small 2 stroker is at its end, clutch and brakes often too.
Best regards
Sven
Peter Pan - 3/18/2010 6:45 AM
Hello Vernon,
I like your videos and the mountain area where you live. (Here we have it even steeper, weter and way warmer in winter.)
The sputnik is way higher, minimum 10cm wider and at least 25kg heavier.
That does make a difference.
Specially when you love strawling through the high mountain range. Then the small 2 stroker is at its end, clutch and brakes often too.
Best regards
Sven
I guess I still don't follow. The Sputnik being higher would make it less stable and 10cm is what? about 4"?
You could set up the Velorex on the KLR at a width that would help make it more stable. Throw a bag of tools in the trunk or weld a plate to the chassis and you could make up the 60lb.s or so difference.
You do need to shift your weight into the turn when you corner, but you should be able to make a safe, fun rig out of that combination.
I do recall riding a MZ Silver Star rig a few years ago and being startled at how unstable it was. I think it must have been just too narrow for it's weight. The sidecar looked like a Velorex and must have weighed about the same, yet it seemed to come up if you clenched your ass. It shouldn't be expensive or difficult to improve it, so long as you don't expect it to handle like a heavy GoldWing type outfit.
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