Finally I was able to download instruction on setting up a sidecar rig. What the hey! Am I building a house or what. I haven't had need for these tools, so they aren't as yet, part of my box of tools. I guess my measuring tape is going to get a work out. Wait, I do to have a level, only it measures about three inche. I used it when stringing up my fence, maybe it will work. Plumb bob I can jerry up something. The carpenter square, maybe the guide off my small table saw can help me make one as large as I need. Of course I can use some lost math skills and make one with my measuring tape. LoL
Are their any more special tools I will need, to set up my sidecar, I want to know before I need it?
Well I got to get started and do what I can, I just hope that I don't need another bloomen specialty tool. Acquiring a CJ pin wrench was hard enough, hope it gets here real soon. bearing replacement is the next, on my things to do list, for this sidecar project.
You can get by quite good with just a measuring tape and some string. Stretch the string over some blocks or whatever to create two straight edges to measure toe in.
Lean out can be eyeballed or you can tie a piece of string to something with a little weight to it to make a plumb bob of sorts.
You have already posted at SCT that the sidecar is basically on the motorcycle so I suppose that we can assume that track width and wheel lead are taken care of. As far as the sidecar chassis being level side to side that can be checked with the tape.
Front to rear 'levelness' of the sidecar frame is not critical as the nose can be up, down or level. It is more aesthetics than anything else withn reason of course.
Take your time checking toe in and recheck it after lean out is played with.
Jim,
First: I've successfully set up hundreds of sidecars.
Second: For measuring toe-in; I use a 1" wide tape measure, a straight 8' length of 1"x 1" square tubing set on coffee cans and placed snugly (flat) against the sidecar wheel. Sidecar visually level front to back and side to side. Any slight lean should be toward the bike.
I block the bike up so it is nearly level. I place the front wheel straight ahead (I eyeball this by sighting along either side of the front tire and adjusting the front wheel so that an even amount of the rear tire is visible on each side).
From points directly below the front and rear axle of the bike, I measure the distance from the center of the wheel to the tubing.
Depending upon the width of the rig I set the initial toe-in between 1/2" to 1" for normally crowned roads.
Third: For measuring lean out I use a magnetic angle guage (portractor) placed vertically on a front wheel brake rotor or placed on the side of a steel rim (at the bead seat, not the edge of the rim flange since they're sometimes not concentric).
With driver on the bike and the sidecar loaded to expected usage weight, the lean-out is set to 1 degree positive (away from the car).
Fourth: I road test the outfit. Usually the preset alignment is pretty close but minor tweaking may be needed for neutral steering. This is usually quite easily accomplished with a turn or two of a strut bolt or a mount's slip tube.
Last: After several miles the tread wear pattern of the sidecar wheel should be "read" for level wear and no sign of side scrubbing which shows as a rounded edge on one side of the tread and a sharp edge or perhaps a rubber "feather" on the other side.
If treadwear is even you're good to go. If not further adjustment is needed.
There are so many variables to each sidecar rig, usage and roads travelled that I feel precision measurements are not needed. Redundant, yes. Necessary, no.
Others may disagree but this has worked for me for decades.
Lonnie
Northwest Sidecars
I found a method for toe in that works very easy for me. I have a seam in my driveway that is perfectly straight. I position the bike so that the center of the tires is right on that seam. If you think about it usually the rear tire is larger than the front so lining things up along side the tires is not accurate. But setting them on a straight seam that extends well out beyond the front is just the ticket. Then I clamp a straight piede of tubing onto the side car tire so it extends out. I then measure tube to driveway seam. Works great. As for lean out just a level on frame to get it just off plumb. I also make sure the hack is level side to side and front to back when mounted to the bike.
I'd say though the best help for me was using the straight line on the ground method for setting toe.
And don't forget the most important thing,an extra pair of hands. But don't start asking the extra pair of hands for beers until you do the math.
Originally written by sebjones on 5/28/2007 10:06 AM
And don't forget the most important thing,an extra pair of hands. But don't start asking the extra pair of hands for beers until you do the math.
Like everything else, alas I have no extra pair of hands, and I have to drink only beverages with 0% alcohal. I'm having such a rough day, one of my mounts broke a bolt clamp. great Chineses craftsmanship for you. Then my rear brake seize up. The my neighbor, who also rides a motorcycle, informs me that my Goldwing is only firing on one bank. I have spark and fuel, so it appears I have bad spark plugs.
One new fix it and two more expences. My wallet is looking more and more like a water fall, with end in sight as to how much is going to fall over the edge. I hope by the time I get this High maintenance baby on the road, It still have enough for the high cost of fuel.
Got to go find a crying towel, to dry my tears, then its back to working on my rig.
Originally written by Rockhound Rider on 5/28/2007 11:05 AM
Originally written by sebjones on 5/28/2007 10:06 AM
And don't forget the most important thing,an extra pair of hands. But don't start asking the extra pair of hands for beers until you do the math.
Like everything else, alas I have no extra pair of hands, and I have to drink only beverages with 0% alcohal. I'm having such a rough day, one of my mounts broke a bolt clamp. great Chineses craftsmanship for you. Then my rear brake seize up. The my neighbor, who also rides a motorcycle, informs me that my Goldwing is only firing on one bank. I have spark and fuel, so it appears I have bad spark plugs.
One new fix it and two more expences. My wallet is looking more and more like a water fall, with end in sight as to how much is going to fall over the edge. I hope by the time I get this High maintenance baby on the road, It still have enough for the high cost of fuel.
Got to go find a crying towel, to dry my tears, then its back to working on my rig.
Man, what a day! I've had days like that.
If one side of your GW is firing and the other not it makes me wonder if you have a coil problem. Aren't there two coils on that machine? could be a loose wire on one coil. I doubt that plugs would go bad only on one side simultaneously. Check for proper grounding and necessary power to the ignition circuit. Maybe a fuse?
Hope for a better day tomorrow!
GNM109:
I'm getting spark, the plugs on the effected side are wet when I pull them and their is only a slight shift of the effective side when I swap plugs from one side to the other. New plugs should tell me something, I hope. So I have spark and I have fuel, I also did a compression test and that was good also, so I hope it is the plugs.
Brakes have been sorted out, will give it a test run tomarrow, after I pick up my movement permit. I hope my insurance varification comes tomarrow, Then I can really give it a test ride. The rear lower sidecar clamp has been repaired, so the rear end on the GW and the wheel bearings on the sidecar wheel are about the last things to do, besides tweeking the adjustment of the sidecar.
Getting real close now.
Originally written by Rockhound Rider on 5/29/2007 2:24 AM
GNM109:
I'm getting spark, the plugs on the effected side are wet when I pull them and their is only a slight shift of the effective side when I swap plugs from one side to the other. New plugs should tell me something, I hope. So I have spark and I have fuel, I also did a compression test and that was good also, so I hope it is the plugs.
Brakes have been sorted out, will give it a test run tomarrow, after I pick up my movement permit. I hope my insurance varification comes tomarrow, Then I can really give it a test ride. The rear lower sidecar clamp has been repaired, so the rear end on the GW and the wheel bearings on the sidecar wheel are about the last things to do, besides tweeking the adjustment of the sidecar.Getting real close now.
Good. It sounds like you are making progress.
As to the wet plugs, I suspect youur plug wires. If they are typical, they are probably in need of replacement. I'm pretty good at spending other people's money, aren't I? LOL Anyway, they could be on the way out.
I see you are in Reno from your profile. I'm over the hill in Sacramento County. What's a movement permit? Is that something that the Nevada authorities have cooked up to collect money from the citizens?
Regards
gnm109
I'm not sure I making this clear. I am getting spark to the plug, but no fire. When I pull the plugs, they are wet from gas, but still no fire. So I am looking at the plugs as the cause. Hopefully that is.
A movement permit allows you to move a vehicle, to say a mechanic if it is not licensed, or in my case, to drive it to DMV, so they can inspect the VIN number, to see that it matches the paperwork and also that it is not listed as stolen, so I can register and license it. Their are other reasons for a movement permit, but I only need it, so I can get it down to DMV and start the registration and licensing process. While I am at it, I hope to determine if the sidecars setup needs further refinement.
Oh Yea. I don't think they charge me the last time I got a movement permit, but then things do change and their always trying to figure out ways of taking your money. LoL
Lets see, more vital fluids and spark plugs, and of course the paperwork from the DMV, that should finish out my list for today and hopefully that is the all that is left to do to get my rig on the road.
Till next time boys and girls. LoL
I see what you mean by a movement permit. Good luck on the engine startup!
Some of this is a good thing. You will be the authority on your rig and will know every nut and bolt. If something happens out on the road you will know right where to go and exactly what to fix.
Keep at it.
Back from town, got every thing on my list except the movement permit. Insurance varification hadn't come in by the time my ride showed up to take me in. Not all was a loss, the special bearing pin wrench with an added bonus, came in the mail instead. The bonus being another end nut with its fabric seal of sorts.
Now my date for putting my rig on the road is pushed back until Thursday, 31st. when I once again have to go into town, but this time it is for me and not my bike per say, good old Dr. appointment. If my insurance varification papers come tomorrow, then I will be able to pick up my movement permit and the wheel bearings, as long as they have them in stock at NAPA Auto parts. Otherwise I will have to find a shop in town that might have them.
Well got to go outside and try my new plugs to see if their is any improvement. Let you know later.
