When my Steib TR500 is attached to my R50/2 it makes my handlebars shake badly. The sidecar used to be mounted to my R60/2 and there were no problems. Anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong?
more speed!. What you describe is typical for 15-25mph.
Check for the front axle position in the earles fork and the steering damper (the handle screw on top of the steering bearings.) Might be that it is loose or the friction discs recieved grease.
Check alignment!
Sven
First of all thank you for responding. The Earls fork is in the forward position. The friction disks are completely clean and the steer dampener is as tight as I can get it and then the shaking stops. When the side car was attached to my R60/2 I don't recall having this problem. But that was a long time ago. I changed the barrierings in the frame but it didn't make a difference. The tires are new and the spokes are new and were relaced, balanced, and trued by a professional. I can drive the bike with the steer head as tight as I can get it, I'm just concerned that when I hit a bump it has the tendancy to try to shake but then goes away. I just had the bike and side car professionally restored, it sat for over 25 years. The last time I drove it I took my wife to California and back. I had no trouble at the time but now its on my R50/2 and I don't know if its adjusted correctly. What do you think?
Randy,
First: What are the barrier rings?
The R60 is full swing, means front and back suspension are swings. While the R50 has, if my memory does not fool me completely, what some people call the jitter suspension in the back (2 vertical shock absorbers, but no swing to level securely the back tire.) Plus the frame is pretty much shorter as I recall it. Together with a ball joint perhaps mounted at a different position gives you a different geometry that may affect you.
As the Steib TR500 is the biggest model you possibly have to move its position something backwards for to get the right position for the side car wheel.
Tip: I do sand the friction discs from time to time to get rid of the glassure (cristalization).
When did you change the steering bearings the last time? When there are nests in the race then the handlebar slapping at low speeds appears earlier and becomes harder.
Good luck
Sven
PS: first of april. You are'nt sending us into the april?
Should not the Earls be in the back holes to reduce trail.
The Earls should be in the forward holes moving the front wheel forward, this reduces trail.
We find that some times changing the toe setting as little as 1/8 of an inch will help head shake a lot as will going to the flat profile Metzler block K tires.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
www.dmcsidecars.com
866-638-1793
Toe in adjustments may very well curtail a slow speed annoying head shake as Jay mentioned. Other things that may help is to play with tire pressures. Not always but a little more air in the sidecar tire can make a difference. The front tire is also a factor. Air in it may be added or taken away to make a difference. A worn or cupped front tire can aggivate a headshake.
Steering head bearings can be snugged up although if you have ball bearings there do not over do it. Swingarm pivot bushings should be checked ot as well as sidecar swingarm pivot bearings / Bushings. Anything that can cause or create a side to side movement can aggrrivate a headshake.
Jay, Earl's must be different from my LL's, as to move the axle forward, I have to use the hole that is closer to the rear/back of bike. Am I missing something.
Moving the front wheel forward is what reduces trail.
claude, That is what I was saying. After looking at pics of an Earl's, I see that there is a big difference in design from a leading link, as it works in reverse for reducing trail.
